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Old 11-16-2018, 12:38 PM   #1
drperry
 
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P10E2 code after battery tender install

So I installed an AGM compatible tender... Now I have a P10E2 code.... And the battery apparently never went over 25%, according to the charger... What did I short out? Lol. Google isn't yielding much... So my seach syntax must be FUBAR... But if anyone has a list of codes from a GM manual somewhere... It'll let me know what I have to fix, lol

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Old 11-16-2018, 12:41 PM   #2
Airfuel
 
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Why did you mount the whole charger under the hood?
What did you connect the leads to?
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:50 PM   #3
50MileSmile

 
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Did you run the ground to the battery, the engine block or the chassis?
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Old 11-16-2018, 12:53 PM   #4
Glen e
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airfuel View Post
Why did you mount the whole charger under the hood?
What did you connect the leads to?
I agree, write a paragraph on exactly how you connected this. Don't ever mount the actual charger underneath the hood, if something should fail, and it gets very hot , you could do some damage, you want it on the ground outside the car with the leads going under the hood, using a SAE connector on the charger leads.
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Old 11-16-2018, 02:01 PM   #5
ShadySS
 
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what did you connect the positive and negative leads to? i dont see the red (positive) alligator clip on the positive terminal.
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Old 11-16-2018, 08:25 PM   #6
1hprush
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Where is the positive feed connected? I don't see a negative feed connected to the bolt.
Let us know if you need some connection direction. Hey, I like the way that sounds
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Old 11-16-2018, 10:06 PM   #7
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Hmm all I could find was BMW info related to that code. Push the blue OnStar button on your mirror and ask for a diagnostic. Ask for the code. See if you get the same.

Fwiw I've been using Battery Tender Plus https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00068XCQU connected to the battery directly with no isssues.
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Old 11-17-2018, 10:02 AM   #8
drperry
 
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It was apparently a low voltage code for something in the ignition system.. I must have wiggled the battery cable enough to cause a brief drop in voltage...


Positive lead is connected to the battery input wire for the fuse box... Negative lead is connected to the ground cable beside the fuse box... I used ring terminals, alligator clips will fall off driving down the road.

It's mounted under the hood so the power cord can reach, lol. I don't want to hack up the power cord until I absolutely have to.

It definitely charges, though... It turns over way better... And the voltmeter hasn't spent this much time at 14.5 volts in a long time, lol.

I'll probably pull it out in the summer time, but winter time, it'll be fine, heat wise.

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Old 11-17-2018, 11:36 AM   #9
Mountain

 
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P10E2 isn't on the 2016 or 2017. That code doesn't show up until 2018, so I'm guessing you have a 2018...

Anyway, here is the info on the code:

P10E2 = Ignition On/Start Circuit Source Bypass Relay Control Circuit Low Voltage. Control Circuit = Short to Ground — For greater than 1 s.

Sounds like the code was just set due you messing with things.

What's the output of the tender you have?
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Old 11-17-2018, 12:07 PM   #10
drperry
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mountain View Post
P10E2 isn't on the 2016 or 2017. That code doesn't show up until 2018, so I'm guessing you have a 2018...

Anyway, here is the info on the code:

P10E2 = Ignition On/Start Circuit Source Bypass Relay Control Circuit Low Voltage. Control Circuit = Short to Ground — For greater than 1 s.

Sounds like the code was just set due you messing with things.

What's the output of the tender you have?
Pretty much, yep, just wiggled the positive cable too much, lol. Thanks for tracking down the info.

It's 1.1 amps at max... It's a Noco G1100.

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Old 11-17-2018, 12:10 PM   #11
Gunkk
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Ignition on + low voltage = either you left the car on and walked away, or the car glitched and kept itself on, and the battery died.

I got a triple honk once when the keyless system glitched (key outside the car). Came back the next day to a dead battery and this same code.
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Old 11-17-2018, 01:54 PM   #12
drperry
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
Ignition on + low voltage = either you left the car on and walked away, or the car glitched and kept itself on, and the battery died.

I got a triple honk once when the keyless system glitched (key outside the car). Came back the next day to a dead battery and this same code.
Key was off, battery didn't go dead, lol.
Battery cable got bumped, and likely had a momentary weak connection.... None of my settings or clock got reset, so it didn't get disconnected for any amount of time, lol

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