[Alain]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

I love my ZLE and your collection is beautiful, but IMHO sell those 3 great muscle cars and buy 1 new 992 GT3 :-)

That thing can do under 7 minutes on the Nurburgring. If you watch the 7:16 ZLE lap on the Ring you know how insanely fast that was (4 wheels airborne at 140+ MPH), no need in my lifetime for a car that is over 16 seconds faster, I would grow old and die driving a 992 GT3.

GT3 will also cost less to run on track in terms of tires, brake pads, fuel etc. And with dry sump and Porsche engineering, it will run all day in 100 degrees with no overheat. If the motor has a design issue like the 991 GT3, they'll replace the motor. GM says "if your oil pump fails, here's a new pump--no we don't care if metal fragments spread through your motor"

Thank you for the compliment.

It's funny that you mention me selling all three for a GT3. I've been toying with that idea for the past month. So far it's a small conversation in my head, as the weeks go by, the thought gets louder and louder haha.

What's kept me from seriously considering it is that I don't know much about Porsches. I respect and admire them, but I don't know much about them. Plus, unless it's the GT3 or the GT2, they all look the same to me. That kind of turns me off.

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

I love my ZLE and your collection is beautiful, but IMHO sell those 3 great muscle cars and buy 1 new 992 GT3 :-)

The GT3 is great but it's kind of a waste on the street and you're going to get bent over every time you take it to a dealer for service. Plus the cost of insurance

GT3 will also cost less to run on track in terms of tires, brake pads, fuel etc. And with dry sump and Porsche engineering, it will run all day in 100 degrees with no overheat. If the motor has a design issue like the 991 GT3, they'll replace the motor. GM says "if your oil pump fails, here's a new pump--no we don't care if metal fragments spread through your motor"

I don't think there's an issue with ZL1s overheating (aside from blower heat soak)

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by ZX-10R

The GT3 is great but it's kind of a waste on the street and you're going to get bent over every time you take it to a dealer for service. Plus the cost of insurance

I don't think there's an issue with ZL1s overheating (aside from blower heat soak)

I'm not really thinking about how my car performs on the street, I buy it for how it performs on the track. You can't explore the true capabilities of either car on the street without driving like an a$$hole, like these dip$hits Sunday:

https://ktla.com/news/local-news/28-...speeding-lapd/

I was thinking about how Porsches hold up well in hot or cold and blower overheat, and also thinking about how Corvette Z06s overheat. Would be nice to have a high-revving NA motor again.

[IMSPD92022]

I run 0W-40 Mobile 1 ESP oil and stock GM oil filter. At hot idle with ~5400 miles, 38-40 psi. I have noticed after running it hard and the oil temp pushing 250-260 it will drop 2-3 PSI at idle. The same for on load cruising hot it will drop from ~48 PSI down to around 43-45 psi. Another observation is when I change the oil and filter (I've done this consistently when it gets to 80% oil life, it goes back up to 40 psi at idle. Much of this is how you break in the engine as the bearing surfaces both cam and crank as well as piston ring seating all play a role in your oil pressure and temperature after break in (1700 miles according to the manual.) However, in my experience of breaking in many small block GM engines, Gen III, IV, and V, they aren't truly broken in and seated until over 6K miles if you run synthetics.

[JSH]

30-35

[Mac7504]

Originally Posted by IMSPD92022

I run 0W-40 Mobile 1 ESP oil and stock GM oil filter. At hot idle with ~5400 miles, 38-40 psi. I have noticed after running it hard and the oil temp pushing 250-260 it will drop 2-3 PSI at idle. The same for on load cruising hot it will drop from ~48 PSI down to around 43-45 psi. Another observation is when I change the oil and filter (I've done this consistently when it gets to 80% oil life, it goes back up to 40 psi at idle. Much of this is how you break in the engine as the bearing surfaces both cam and crank as well as piston ring seating all play a role in your oil pressure and temperature after break in (1700 miles according to the manual.) However, in my experience of breaking in many small block GM engines, Gen III, IV, and V, they aren't truly broken in and seated until over 6K miles if you run synthetics.

Damn, 6k to seat rings????? I've never ever heard of this. That's crazy.

[EDFHOBBIES]

41k miles hasn't moved still 30 to 35.. actually I lied I had a Misfire on cylinder 3 1 time from a bad injector it was 22 psi scared me lol.

I usually change oil 40 to 50% mainly because I run full E I do notice a few more psi after the oil change.

[SammYyYyY]

5W-30 oil

Mine seems to vary a bit based on the temperature (obvious). If I do a pull and/or am driving the car spiritedly, then look at pressure at idle directly after, I seem to be more in the 25-27 PSI range. If the car is up to operating temp, but is just sitting at idle, it seems to be in the 29-30 PSI range.

I’ve attached some pictures under multiple conditions with the temperature visible; do I have any reason to be concerned? My powertrain warranty goes out in a week, so if I do have any cause for concern I’d like to have it figured out right now 😆

[RobZL1]

My hot idle is always right at the 30 mark, for what it's worth. 5w30 oil if it matters.

I know Katech_Zach and Katech_Mike have some good failure intel on this- how low is too low, and what is indicative of an issue.

Here's a relevant post:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...postcount=1155

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by IMSPD92022

However, in my experience of breaking in many small block GM engines, Gen III, IV, and V, they aren't truly broken in and seated until over 6K miles if you run synthetics.

Wrong.

There are countless dyno tests on multiple forums that show ~90% of breakin occurs in the first 10 heat cycles. There is some slow residual sealing that occurs over a longer period

[george]

[QUOTE=SammYyYyY;11296030]5W-30 oil

Mine seems to vary a bit based on the temperature (obvious). If I do a pull and/or am driving the car spiritedly, then look at pressure at idle directly after, I seem to be more in the 25-27 PSI range. If the car is up to operating temp, but is just sitting at idle, it seems to be in the 29-30 PSI range.

I’ve attached some pictures under multiple conditions with the temperature visible; do I have any reason to be concerned? My powertrain warranty goes out in a week, so if I do have any cause for concern I’d like to have it figured out right now 😆

1. First of all, if you haven't bought an extended warranty, buy one now.

2. That first picture looks low but may be associated with how hard you were driving. Still low enough for you to be suspicious. If you were taking any tight turns, that could also be a factor.

3. After hot idle I also see around 29-30 idle. But I would say that could be gauge fluctuations as well. When cold, pressure is in the upper 30's to low 40's.

4. Anything that stays in the low 20's is cause for concern based on what Zach from KATECH has said.

[gblaue]

0w40
32psi hot idle

[SammYyYyY]

[QUOTE=george;11298543]

Originally Posted by SammYyYyY

5W-30 oil

Mine seems to vary a bit based on the temperature (obvious). If I do a pull and/or am driving the car spiritedly, then look at pressure at idle directly after, I seem to be more in the 25-27 PSI range. If the car is up to operating temp, but is just sitting at idle, it seems to be in the 29-30 PSI range.

I’ve attached some pictures under multiple conditions with the temperature visible; do I have any reason to be concerned? My powertrain warranty goes out in a week, so if I do have any cause for concern I’d like to have it figured out right now ��

1. First of all, if you haven't bought an extended warranty, buy one now.

2. That first picture looks low but may be associated with how hard you were driving. Still low enough for you to be suspicious. If you were taking any tight turns, that could also be a factor.

3. After hot idle I also see around 29-30 idle. But I would say that could be gauge fluctuations as well. When cold, pressure is in the upper 30's to low 40's.

4. Anything that stays in the low 20's is cause for concern based on what Zach from KATECH has said.

I’m going to make one last call tomorrow (my car goes out of warranty on 3/29/22) and see what we can do warranty wise.

I would say in that first pic I was driving the car quite hard; still street driving nonetheless, but when I do take it out I romp on it pretty hard.

My cold pressure is in the high 30s as well.

Maybe @Katech_Zach could chime in on this? ��

[wuplash]

Mine stays at 39-40psi hot idle after driving.
This image is after a 11 mile drive today.