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Old 06-27-2018, 07:54 PM   #15
Kenny Camaro
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
Hi Kenny Camaro
Have you ever looked into the design of the drivers side exhaust manifold on the 2016 and up V6 where it changes size drastically to clear the steering shaft.
No, I haven’t . It looks like there is room for improvement there.
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:34 AM   #16
PolynesianPowerhouse
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Hey man that's great stuff right there! I will try the one on my dash next time and compare it to the phone for S&Gs. Has anyone actually seen any improvement (even the slightest) with the removal of the exhaust valves without replacing the entire exhaust from the CATS back to the muffler? I have to admit that they are kinda dumb, but I don't know if removing them will affect the engine switching or set CELs without a tune. The only suspension mod that I currently have is a ZZP tower strut brace. I also purchased some slotted and drilled brake rotors but the car stops on a dime with the stock ones. I'm just gonna wait until warranty goes before I do anything else that might give me grief. Car only has 6200 miles on it. I don't plan on any other suspension parts because the car handles like a dream. GM really did a wonderful job with this platform.
Remove the valves. That's part of the most recent thing ive done with exhaust. Well worth it. Ours are not like the v8 which stay open and close when in 4 cylinder mode by an actuator. They are spring loaded and no hole in them. Its literally like a door. The engine spends pumping power to keep them open. Great for sound control in 4 cylinder mode, but a bit taxing at any rpm.

I was skeptical A.F. at first when i originally digged into the exhaust, but after doing more research and forum advice, i removed em.

I posted pics in my members journal of the insides. Truly its a no brainer. Where you have peeps worried about crushed pipes, but not worried about a spring loaded door, baffles me now.

Never been big on drilled rotors. Slots are for show really. Pad materials arent like the past. And given the rotor is a giant heat sink, you want as much mass there as possible.

I exceeded the stock single pistons the first summer i had the car. Later added the 4 pistons with oem ferrodo pads and now on 6 pistons with hawk street/race pad which is their old dtc-30 compound. Im a performance/functional type guy and dont cry about brake dust.
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When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt

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Old 06-28-2018, 12:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
Remove the valves. That's part of the most recent thing ive done with exhaust. Well worth it. Ours are not like the v8 which stay open and close when in 4 cylinder mode by an actuator. They are spring loaded and no hole in them. Its literally like a door. The engine spends pumping power to keep them open. Great for sound control in 4 cylinder mode, but a bit taxing at any rpm.

I was skeptical A.F. at first when i originally digged into the exhaust, but after doing more research and forum advice, i removed em.

I posted pics in my members journal of the insides. Truly its a no brainer. Where you have peeps worried about crushed pipes, but not worried about a spring loaded door, baffles me now.

Never been big on drilled rotors. Slots are for show really. Pad materials arent like the past. And given the rotor is a giant heat sink, you want as much mass there as possible.

I exceeded the stock single pistons the first summer i had the car. Later added the 4 pistons with oem ferrodo pads and now on 6 pistons with hawk street/race pad which is their old dtc-30 compound. Im a performance/functional type guy and dont cry about brake dust.
How does removing the valve affect the sound in 4 cylinder mode? Does it drone any?
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Old 06-28-2018, 01:05 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
Remove the valves. That's part of the most recent thing ive done with exhaust. Well worth it. Ours are not like the v8 which stay open and close when in 4 cylinder mode by an actuator. They are spring loaded and no hole in them. Its literally like a door. The engine spends pumping power to keep them open. Great for sound control in 4 cylinder mode, but a bit taxing at any rpm.

I was skeptical A.F. at first when i originally digged into the exhaust, but after doing more research and forum advice, i removed em.

I posted pics in my members journal of the insides. Truly its a no brainer. Where you have peeps worried about crushed pipes, but not worried about a spring loaded door, baffles me now.

Never been big on drilled rotors. Slots are for show really. Pad materials arent like the past. And given the rotor is a giant heat sink, you want as much mass there as possible.

I exceeded the stock single pistons the first summer i had the car. Later added the 4 pistons with oem ferrodo pads and now on 6 pistons with hawk street/race pad which is their old dtc-30 compound. Im a performance/functional type guy and dont cry about brake dust.
I appreciate that reassurance! What you are saying makes perfect sense. I think I will take it to the local muffler shop and let them tack weld the valves open for the time being just because the car is still under warranty and I want to keep my mods very discreet, LOL! For sure I will be removing them after it exceeds 3 years or 36000 miles. Its not a daily driver so come October 2020 the car gets the knife!
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Old 06-28-2020, 03:07 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BOYD3800SII View Post
I am God-Awful about remembering to post pics. it has been stupid hot here in Memphis and just too uncomfortable in my garage to quickly take off my intake mods. Here is the exhaust system with 2 of the Jones Exhaust Turbine mufflers (Part# JT2525) and the Misimoto catch can placement.
Man where did you get that engine sway bar ? I thought they didn't make it for the V6 very interested. Share the link if you can pls
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:23 PM   #20
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Man where did you get that engine sway bar ? I thought they didn't make it for the V6 very interested. Share the link if you can pls
Suprised to see this thread resurrected! LOL! I got that from ZZPerformance. It was modeled for the 4 cylinder motor but it works with the V6 as well. It barely clears the engine cover by about 1/2 inch, and you will need to adjust it to make sure it does not rub the top of the cover. Also, the only thing I did was to add a washer to the end of each banjo bolt because I could not get any additional torque on it. Without the washer, the sway bar would not get tight enough for my liking. it works incredibly well and cheap too.

https://zzperformance.com/products/z...ut-tower-brace
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:26 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by 10efra View Post
Man where did you get that engine sway bar ? I thought they didn't make it for the V6 very interested. Share the link if you can pls
You can look closely at the sway bar picture and see where it made contact with the engine cover... I have since adjusted the bolts on both sides to raise it up just enough to clear the cover...
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Old 06-29-2020, 04:03 PM   #22
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Still waiting on my dang Soler unit. Covid virus and shipping issues do not mix lol. So you just have a self ported throttle body then? No issues with it?
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Old 06-29-2020, 07:19 PM   #23
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Still waiting on my dang Soler unit. Covid virus and shipping issues do not mix lol. So you just have a self ported throttle body then? No issues with it?
Not ported...polished using dremel tool to a heavy mirror shine. Smoothed it out and removed all the rough castings and cleaned up any gunk. There are tons of how to on YouTube. It worked good for me but the Soler unit was miles ahead of my little work. I used my polished TB as a core and sent it to Soler
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Old 06-29-2020, 07:48 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by BOYD3800SII View Post
Not ported...polished using dremel tool to a heavy mirror shine. Smoothed it out and removed all the rough castings and cleaned up any gunk. There are tons of how to on YouTube. It worked good for me but the Soler unit was miles ahead of my little work. I used my polished TB as a core and sent it to Soler
Gotcha. Yeah my bad, I now see where it was just polished only.
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Old 07-01-2020, 12:13 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by BOYD3800SII View Post
Suprised to see this thread resurrected! LOL! I got that from ZZPerformance. It was modeled for the 4 cylinder motor but it works with the V6 as well. It barely clears the engine cover by about 1/2 inch, and you will need to adjust it to make sure it does not rub the top of the cover. Also, the only thing I did was to add a washer to the end of each banjo bolt because I could not get any additional torque on it. Without the washer, the sway bar would not get tight enough for my liking. it works incredibly well and cheap too.

https://zzperformance.com/products/z...ut-tower-brace
Thanks! And yeah I see it made contact now. Was it hard to install the spacer TB ? I just got mine from airaid ... any tips will be appreciated it. I’m not very used to touch my car but losing the fear little by little. Just put on the K&N Typhoon and wow it sounds/ performs different.
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Old 07-01-2020, 01:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by 10efra View Post
Thanks! And yeah I see it made contact now. Was it hard to install the spacer TB ? I just got mine from airaid ... any tips will be appreciated it. I’m not very used to touch my car but losing the fear little by little. Just put on the K&N Typhoon and wow it sounds/ performs different.
LOL its only 4, 10mm bolts. A 5th grader can easily do the mod. I went 1 step further and I removed the plastic air baffles inside the plastic intake manifold that sit directly behind the throttle body so they don't interfere with the vortex circulation from the TB spacer. You should be able to break them off or cut them off with a knife.
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:13 AM   #27
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Depending upon how thick the spacer is it may be necessary to slightly trim a rib on the top of a wiring guide just below the throttle body position.
At least it was necessary on mine.
Other than that though, as BOYD3800SII said installing a spacer is a dead simple ten to fifteen minute job.

Speaking only from my own experiments (yours may well vary) pretty much everything that has been suggested does help.
  • Removing or wiring open the exhaust dampers is a plus. I originally wired mine fully open using heavy steel wire and stainless steel hose clamps because they rattled. If I ever have the exhaust system off the car I will permanently remove them as PolynesianPowerhouse suggested. A side benefit is a nicer exhaust sound.
  • Removing the air baffles inside the manifold opening helped my car with off-idle flat spots. Use a sharp "end cutter" tool for this. The only downside I have noticed was a slight increase in intake noise. Not a big concern though.
  • I mirror polished an OEM replacement throttle body I put on a while back. It made a definite improvement without any doubt. The Soler unit would be an improvement on that I'm quite sure, but it is a significant amount of money and might involve a lot of down time right now.
  • Finally (and I can already imagine some of you rolling your eyes, but please indulge me) I designed and 3D printed a 12mm thick spiral throat spacer just for kicks, being a "frugal" skeptic of them in general. Amazingly it also improved the off-idle flat spot which is now more or less gone. I'm just using it for testing but so far it has held up perfectly and makes a noticeable difference. I wholly agree that for a direct injection engine it shouldn't matter, but in fact it does. At least this one does. I have had it on and off again several times and every time I can easily feel a difference.

None of this will turn your V6 into a ZL-1 and might not even show up except as blips on a real dyno.
But it all works together in little ways, and again speaking only for myself I can feel the differences.
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Last edited by DIYguy; 07-02-2020 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:13 PM   #28
10efra
 
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Originally Posted by DIYguy View Post
Depending upon how thick the spacer is it may be necessary to slightly trim a rib on the top of a wiring guide just below the throttle body position.
At least it was necessary on mine.
Other than that though, as BOYD3800SII said installing a spacer is a dead simple ten to fifteen minute job.

Speaking only from my own experiments (yours may well vary) pretty much everything that has been suggested does help.
  • Removing or wiring open the exhaust dampers is a plus. I originally wired mine fully open using heavy steel wire and stainless steel hose clamps because they rattled. If I ever have the exhaust system off the car I will permanently remove them as PolynesianPowerhouse suggested. A side benefit is a nicer exhaust sound.
  • Removing the air baffles inside the manifold opening helped my car with off-idle flat spots. Use a sharp "end cutter" tool for this. The only downside I have noticed was a slight increase in intake noise. Not a big concern though.
  • I mirror polished an OEM replacement throttle body I put on a while back. It made a definite improvement without any doubt. The Soler unit would be an improvement on that I'm quite sure, but it is a significant amount of money and might involve a lot of down time right now.
  • Finally (and I can already imagine some of you rolling your eyes, but please indulge me) I designed and 3D printed a 12mm thick spiral throat spacer just for kicks, being a "frugal" skeptic of them in general. Amazingly it also improved the off-idle flat spot which is now more or less gone. I'm just using it for testing but so far it has held up perfectly and makes a noticeable difference. I wholly agree that for a direct injection engine it shouldn't matter, but in fact it does. At least this one does. I have had it on and off again several times and every time I can easily feel a difference.

None of this will turn your V6 into a ZL-1 and might not even show up except as blips on a real dyno.
But it all works together in little ways, and again speaking only for myself I can feel the differences.

I agree with you my warranty just expired so I’m doing some mods little by little. The K&N CAI already made a difference. After 3 years of DD the car I’m 100% sure it made a difference. There’s no debate lol Thanks for the advice on the Spacer. Hope I don’t have to trim it it’s a tight fit when the CAI got installed. Also Has anyone changed their oem spark plug wires ? Or spark plugs ? Is there any upgrades possible in that area ?
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