[dethzombi]

My friend and I are going to be installing Kooks 1 7/8" Catless Headers is there anything I should know of going into this to avoid a permanent code? I saw a lot about people disabling some particular codes before installing, which codes should be disabled? I'm getting a tune the day after I install everything. Should everything be taken care of with that tune? I installed a Cold Air Intake, I'm in the process of making the modifications to an LT2 manifold and that will be installed at the same time as the headers.

Second question, with a tune, rotofab, LT2 Manifold, and long tubes, how much HP should I be at? I'm assuming around 440-450 but I'm not sure.

[Doc Oc]

There are more than a dozen error codes that need to be disabled. Tuner should do it as long as you make him aware.

I never see it mentioned here but something you should seriously consider when doing the headers is upgraded motor mounts. The solid bmr's are less than $200 and make a world of difference. Plus it makes the header job much easier if you do both at once. Just a suggestion.

[dethzombi]

Originally Posted by Doc Oc

There are more than a dozen error codes that need to be disabled. Tuner should do it as long as you make him aware.

I never see it mentioned here but something you should seriously consider when doing the headers is upgraded motor mounts. The solid bmr's are less than $200 and make a world of difference. Plus it makes the header job much easier if you do both at once. Just a suggestion.

For those motor mounts what would I need to do to install them? I don't need to lift the engine do I? Also, is this the correct part number: MM010H?

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by dethzombi

For those motor mounts what would I need to do to install them? I don't need to lift the engine do I? Also, is this the correct part number: MM010H?

That’s the right number for the motor mounts. (H for hammered finish).

Yes you will need to lift the engine. It’s straight forward. We used the install instructions and they weren’t to useless.

Also, get some coolant and a 5 gallon bucket to catch it when you pull the oil cooler line. Count to 3 and prepare for a lot of coolant! There’s enough room to direct the hard line into the bucket. This was the highlight of the install. A second set of hands are helpful here because one hand will be holding the bucket and the second hand will hope the hard line.

We did do this on a lift. The double swivel is helpful too.

I agree with Doc, having these motor mounts does make the install better especially since we installed 2”.

[BruceWayne1LE]

Having just put my headers back on after getting them coated, I will say I found that removing the black clip holding the abs line on the passenger side frame rail gave me that extra 3/4” of clearance to slide the headers in. Way F***** better than lifting the motor or pulling the starter.

[dethzombi]

Originally Posted by BruceWayne1LE

Having just put my headers back on after getting them coated, I will say I found that removing the black clip holding the abs line on the passenger side frame rail gave me that extra 3/4” of clearance to slide the headers in. Way F***** better than lifting the motor or pulling the starter.

So I read elsewhere of people using: Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, is that necessary or would I be fine using just the supplied clamps?

[BruceWayne1LE]

Originally Posted by dethzombi

So I read elsewhere of people using: Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, is that necessary or would I be fine using just the supplied clamps?

I planned on using the same thing just as an extra layer of protection. I’ve always put in on and clamped everything up while it’s wet so it dries in the form of any imperfections.

[kropscamaro16]

you need to get them tuned out after i had my installed and codes popped up every 500 or miles or so i just cleared them out until i had the car tuned

[s346k]

Originally Posted by BruceWayne1LE

I planned on using the same thing just as an extra layer of protection. I’ve always put in on and clamped everything up while it’s wet so it dries in the form of any imperfections.

i tried the copper permatex. it was fine until i floored it and then it blew it all out. this was with a walker mega clamp. did it twice, same result. that was my experience, yours may be better, i run the car pretty hard.

[BruceWayne1LE]

Originally Posted by s346k

i tried the copper permatex. it was fine until i floored it and then it blew it all out. this was with a walker mega clamp. did it twice, same result. that was my experience, yours may be better, i run the car pretty hard.

Was it on the ball and flange connection or the butt/step clamp connection? They key is a very very light film. I think people get carried away with that shit.

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by dethzombi

For those motor mounts what would I need to do to install them? I don't need to lift the engine do I? Also, is this the correct part number: MM010H?

It's pretty simply. Unbolt the stockers (hardest part by far as some of the bolts are difficult to access) then slide a jack under the oil pan. Put a foot long piece of 1x6 between jack and pan to distribute the load and lift the engine just enough to get the factory mounts out. Probably about 1.5". With them out you can slide your headers in place no problem without removing anything. Once the headers have a couple bolts in them put the bmr mounts, tighten the bottom bolts and get the top ones hand tight, then lower the engine, tighten rest of the bolts and Bob's your uncle. Once you see how much play the factory mounts have you'll be glad you went with the bmr's. I took a video of the engine movement (when starting) before the mounts and after. Night and day difference. Can't find the video now though unfortunately.

One thing to note. BMR sends two different size bolts with the mounts. Make sure you use the right bolt in the right spot. It's pretty obvious but I still managed to do it wrong on the first mount.

[6spdhyperblue]

How much does the car shake with the bmr mounts

[Doc Oc]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

How much does the car shake with the bmr mounts

They didn't make a noticable difference nvh wise if that's what you're asking. The headers are definitely much worse in that regard. They're the only mod I regret actually. Maybe I'm just getting old but man they're obnoxious.

[s346k]

Originally Posted by BruceWayne1LE

Was it on the ball and flange connection or the butt/step clamp connection? They key is a very very light film. I think people get carried away with that shit.

speed engineering, belled/slip fit. ive invested a lot of effort in killing exhaust leaks. what i found that seems to work is using lava header wrap on the connections and a thin (summit) stainless band clamp. the walker clamps are certainly heavier, but the bands did not form to the pipes like the thinner summit bands. the stainless exhaust pipes don't give and deform like regular steel. i had enough ugga duggas on one of the walker clamps to make it break.

just my experience and what works. you can watch the thin summit band clamps form around the pipes like a vacuum seal. i wrapped the connection twice and gave that clamp the business. so far so good.