[zx9rmal]

I had my local tire shop do the track alignment. They told me they could not set front camber because there is an "adjustment bolt" that is required, and they didn't have it.

I haven't seen (or don't remember) mention of this before. What is this bolt and can I get it from the dealer or elsewhere?

Thanks.

[Uncle Sam]

Uh oh!

[Uncle Sam]

Search for "1le track alignment adjustment bolt" and go to dealer horror thread.

Sorry, I don't know how to paste the link.

[Ryephile]

This whole alignment situation needs to be stickied as it comes up seemingly every other day.

Your shop couldn't figure it out because they lack the experience to get the job done. The bolt in question is at-best "nice to have" but hardly necessary.

*Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.

[Ryephile]

Originally Posted by Uncle Sam

Search for "1le track alignment adjustment bolt" and go to dealer horror thread.

Sorry, I don't know how to paste the link.

CTRL+C, then CTRL+V

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...djustment+bolt

[kropscamaro16]

its not a real thing and not needed take to performance alignment shop and theyll do it for you

[zx9rmal]

Thank you. If I want to get said alignment bolt, does anyone know the size or p/n?

[Uncle Sam]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

CTRL+C, then CTRL+V

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...djustment+bolt

Thank you!

[SpazmXylam]

The point of the bolt is to help with camber adjustment. If you look through your wheel at the top of the aluminum knuckle you will see a threaded hole.

How it works is that if you loosen the 2 large cross bolts holding the strut to the knuckle with the weight of the car still on that corner it should push the camber as far negative as it will go. (Assuming it isn't sticky or something. I had to coax mine to move with a long punch and some light taps with a small-ish hammer) Where the bolt come in handy is to easily allow you to bring the camber back some if it goes too far. For me one side went to -2.6 and the other -2.4. Simply thread any bolt that fits and keep turning until desired camber is achieved. you can just remove the bolt after you tighten everything back up and use it on the other side. All I needed to do was to bring my -2.6 to match the -2.4. I removed the bolt afterwards.


I know the reboot of the Pontiac GTO (The 2004 ones) uses the exact same system. Its not a new idea by any stretch. GMC Acadia aligns the same way with one small difference... there are no previsions for the nifty helper bolt.

If the knuckle moves freely in the strut the little bolt makes an excellent fine adjustment method for camber. It is entirely possible to do it without.


Point being: While it is nice to have, a competent alignment guy should have no problems without it. Its not a Camaro or even GM specific item. Any bolt with correct length and thread will work.

[zx9rmal]

Originally Posted by SpazmXylam

The point of the bolt is to help with camber adjustment. If you look through your wheel at the top of the aluminum knuckle you will see a threaded hole.

How it works is that if you loosen the 2 large cross bolts holding the strut to the knuckle with the weight of the car still on that corner it should push the camber as far negative as it will go. (Assuming it isn't sticky or something. I had to coax mine to move with a long punch and some light taps with a small-ish hammer) Where the bolt come in handy is to easily allow you to bring the camber back some if it goes too far. For me one side went to -2.6 and the other -2.4. Simply thread any bolt that fits and keep turning until desired camber is achieved. you can just remove the bolt after you tighten everything back up and use it on the other side. All I needed to do was to bring my -2.6 to match the -2.4. I removed the bolt afterwards.


I know the reboot of the Pontiac GTO (The 2004 ones) uses the exact same system. Its not a new idea by any stretch. GMC Acadia aligns the same way with one small difference... there are no previsions for the nifty helper bolt.

If the knuckle moves freely in the strut the little bolt makes an excellent fine adjustment method for camber. It is entirely possible to do it without.


Point being: While it is nice to have, a competent alignment guy should have no problems without it. Its not a Camaro or even GM specific item. Any bolt with correct length and thread will work.

Thank you! That was extremely helpful.

[zx9rmal]

I want to say thanks for all the input. My local tire place got the track alignment spot on, according to the printout they gave me. Hopefully it's not just in my head, but the car feels better at a higher speed around an on ramp sweeper.

One interesting thing. Based on what I read in my searches, the bolt is a 10mm x 1.5 x 40mm. I brought them that bolt but they said it was too short, so they ran over to Home Depot and got a longer one, about 1 inch longer. ???

Anyway, I'm happy for now.

[MP3BOOSTED]

subbing as i will reference this thread when i need it

[SpazmXylam]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

Hopefully it's not just in my head, but the car feels better at a higher speed around an on ramp sweeper.

Its not just in your head. A proper alignment is night and day difference.



I align all my cars with at least -2 camber up front (unless they max out on factory adjustment before that) and -1.5ish for the rear

[zx9rmal]

Originally Posted by SpazmXylam

Its not just in your head. A proper alignment is night and day difference.



I align all my cars with at least -2 camber up front (unless they max out on factory adjustment before that) and -1.5ish for the rear

Since I got lifetime free alignments, I'll see how the tires look after several thousand miles. If no excessive wear on the front outer tread, I'll have another -.5 dialed in.