[shinysun]

Planning to put drop-in forged pistons.
Are there any makers to make drop-in forged with the lower CR?

[boostednut]

Yes there are several. You can get stock CR and Lowered CR.

Are you planning on re-doing rods too? Or bearings? What mileage?

[shinysun]

Originally Posted by boostednut

Yes there are several. You can get stock CR and Lowered CR.

Are you planning on re-doing rods too? Or bearings? What mileage?

Thank you,

about 40,000 miles and want simply to change the pistons and rod bearings without pulling the engine out.

[boostednut]

Originally Posted by shinysun

Thank you,

about 40,000 miles and want simply to change the pistons and rod bearings without pulling the engine out.

I don't know what the stock main bearings can take, and how much mileage might effect their longevity. I wish I knew though.

But there are Vegneance Racing Wiseco pistons that are drop in, and another option is Cunningham Motorsports pistons + rods which have a drop in cr.

[Dysan911]

Has anyone ever done drop in's without pulling the motor?

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Has anyone ever done drop in's without pulling the motor?

Following...very interested in this topic too.

[ShizzySupra]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Has anyone ever done drop in's without pulling the motor?

Several people have as even Cunningham has stated that it's do-able with their piston/rod kit. (They have done it at their shop as well)

But if you are doing drop in's usually you are doing a cam as well. At that point it's easier to drop the whole motor out the bottom, labor isnt much more. My shop dropped the entire motor out and it was 10x easier to do everything.

[boostednut]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

Several people have as even Cunningham has stated that it's do-able with their piston/rod kit. (They have done it at their shop as well)

But if you are doing drop in's usually you are doing a cam as well. At that point it's easier to drop the whole motor out the bottom, labor isnt much more. My shop dropped the entire motor out and it was 10x easier to do everything.

I think we have to disagree.

It's not easier to drop a sub frame at home. It's easier when there's a shop, with a proper lift, and all the tools needed.

Doing hones in car is not a new idea, and has been done many times on other engines.... I don't know how much room you have with the oil squirters in place for a flex hone...


But when you're already doing a cam, a rod/piston upgrade is an extra set of steps worth considering...

It would just be nice if someone who actually had done it hands on spoke about it.

Yes you need extra steps to keep the crank/bearings clear of debris. But if you're careful it's not that bad. Duct tape off the oil holes in the crank, tape around the edges of the mains... Throw some rags in the bottom of each cylinder, tape off cylinders you're not honing, coffee filter+carb cleaner, and you should be good to go.

These shops say it's easy, but looking at CMS for example, they want 18k for a cammed blower setup. I can see why a lot of people would be interested in DIY for not much more than the parts.

Forged short end done at a shop with a cam, throw in a blower install, fuel system... Honestly at that point better off selling the car and picking up a ZL1 and doing bolt ons. Will make similar power, have a brand new sorted lt4, and suspension/brakes/tires/wheels/interior/wider body/10 speed etc etc etc.

[tireslayer0331]

These look to be great value, it's nice seeing some competition in the LT motor marketplace lowering prices!

https://gwatneyperformance.com/produ...on-rod-package

[ShizzySupra]

/shrug. Total cost of mine so far is STILL cheaper than a stock zl1 and makes over 200whp more. A modded zl1 would need a full blower upgrade to make more power and would need a cam/valvesprings etc. So even more cost.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

/shrug. Total cost of mine so far is STILL cheaper than a stock zl1 and makes over 200whp more. A modded zl1 would need a full blower upgrade to make more power and would need a cam/valvesprings etc. So even more cost.

The math doesn’t work out for me either. ZL1 vert...

I always loved smoking Z06’s in the Vette days. Now I can enjoy smoking Z06’s and ZL1’s. But really, the car isn’t an investment, it’s just fun to personalize the car....

[boostednut]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

/shrug. Total cost of mine so far is STILL cheaper than a stock zl1 and makes over 200whp more. A modded zl1 would need a full blower upgrade to make more power and would need a cam/valvesprings etc. So even more cost.

2ss with built motor and magnuson, fuel system...? For most people that's 60k
2ss goes for 40k (not even brand new)
maggie is 7k
exhaust another 2k
Let's say tune 1k
Let's say built motor is 2.5k+2k for rods pistons, and full cam setup.
54k.
But then you have fuel system. lt4 1,600$ but you need low side too, so another 1k there for the average low side solution.
So 56k? 57k?
That's without labor. So if you pay a shop to do this, you're easily going to spend another 10k. Most shops cost about 4k for labor on a piston install. That doesn't include cam install. Or blower install. So easily looking at another 7k there. Add in headers exhaust, fuel system (low side)


So sure, maybe you didn't spend 64k, but someone else can very easily. Maybe you got good deals or DIY. But for the average person to walk up and build an SS you're easily close to a zl1.

You have 200whp more than a stock zl1? Well you can fix that with flex fuel, a lower pulley, headers, meth injection and a tune. All things you can do at home (aside from the tune) really easily. Add in a ported blower and you should see 700whp through the auto. Add in a cam and you're going to be past that. And a pulley setup+headers is cheap. A tune is pretty easy. A basic meth kit is what 700$. Spend 3k in parts to get close to 700whp. Also considering you can pick up a used zl1 for under 60... That makes the whole thing a lot more silly. Or that you could start with a 2ss that runs 50k...

Then with the SS you're left with well an SS. Re-sale value is lower. Zl1 you could put back to stock in a day, and go to a dealer and get back what you paid for. And it will be a better looking, handling package. 5 years from now the zl1 will be worth more too.

You have to be realistic. Every time you mod you lose value, but to act like you aren't spending big bucks that you could use on a car that will be much better for big power... Is stupid

Edit I see you have 800whp. But looks like 750 torque. That's what a bolt on zl1 will put down for torque. I mean, with a zl1 you could just put on a nitrous kit and spray the stock blower with a set of headers if you really wanted power for cheap. And then the important part; you don't have to worry about making sure you find the right shop to do your work. Because shops mess things up. You don't have to wait months of down time for the car, for the blower etc.

If you can wrench, then yeah you can save some money. But the point is, if you're going to pay a shop to do a built motor, you pay so much it's pretty stupid to do. What's that guy on youtube. Paid like close to 80k for his built SS, got 750~whp on a mustang dyno? Zl1 used, whipple, cam, headers, tune. There you go. Same money. More power. Better car.

[ShizzySupra]

You dont own a car and from the sounds of it you paper race and havent ever had anything built. My car makes 815 in a 5th gear pull (6th is 1:1 and would show about 840). Torque is “only” 750 for traction purposes. Its just timing, we could add more if we wanted. Also thats 15 psi, I have a 20 psi pulley. Would put me over 900.... and I am still under 60k. So yes since my plan is 1000+ hp eventually I bought the right car.... sorry i am “stupid” to you.

Bolt on/tune/cam zl1 is still gonna be 15k in mods.... dont really understand acting like the logic is so much more sound there. I buy and mod cars for fun which is why “value” doesnt mean anything to me. I would never buy new as you get hit the hardest first two years. Which is where I would buy them in year 3 lol.

[boostednut]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

You dont own a car and from the sounds of it you paper race and havent ever had anything built. My car makes 815 in a 5th gear pull (6th is 1:1 and would show about 840). Torque is “only” 750 for traction purposes. Its just timing, we could add more if we wanted. Also thats 15 psi, I have a 20 psi pulley. Would put me over 900.... and I am still under 60k. So yes since my plan is 1000+ hp eventually I bought the right car.... sorry i am “stupid” to you.

Bolt on/tune/cam zl1 is still gonna be 15k in mods.... dont really understand acting like the logic is so much more sound there. I buy and mod cars for fun which is why “value” doesnt mean anything to me. I would never buy new as you get hit the hardest first two years. Which is where I would buy them in year 3 lol.

My last car had a fully built 6 cylinder (sleeved) and rev'd to 8.5. Single turbo. 7175 billet turbo. Built the turbo kit my self. 2000c ID dynamics e85 etc triple pump. 800whp was low boost for me. Anyone can throw money at a car dude. Doesn't make anyone special. Lose the attitude.


You're obviously pissed I said what you did was stupid. Grow up. I didn't insult you. I shared my opinion.