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Old 03-15-2021, 09:40 AM   #29
Wobble Goat
 
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IMO • You have not provided what error code your CEL is and I doubt your torqueing or lack there of the bolts caused a vacuum leak. If that were the case your car would likely be idling like crap. I believe the undescribed CEL was caused by your MAF sensor reading changes in the flow of air.


Swapping parts doesn't mean you are going to make more power. In some cases you lose power until you get vehicle tuned to utilize the parts correctly.


I have edited this because the verbiage ruffled some feathers.

Last edited by Wobble Goat; 03-16-2021 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 03-15-2021, 11:43 AM   #30
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I am not saying the torque of his bolts is causing his cell. It might be or might not be. I am just telling him the correct torque specs that he seems to not want to use. He can do what he feels is right and yes he has not provided the cell error code.
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Old 03-15-2021, 11:52 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobble Goat View Post
No, you altered how the "metered" air enters your engine thus changing your air to fuel ratio. Your computer detected this and spit out a code. After driving for a while the computer will relearn the fuel trims to get back to its baseline the best it can. If it gets within acceptable parameters the CEL will go away.

Swapping parts doesn't mean you are going to make more power. You need to get your vehicle tuned to make use of the different airflow design to get the best air to fuel ratio again for the best efficiency.
Way to contradict yourself....

Either the computer learns or it doesn't. Only when the ECM is on the edge, or out of, preprogrammed parameters does it need to be adjusted.

As long as swapping parts keeps you "on the pavement" you're fine. Veer off the road, the computer trips a code and you need to "move the chains" to re-center the parameters and get back on the pavement.


And, technically, the throttle body is what meters the air into the engine. "Metered air" is already in the engine at this point. The manifold is the "air distributor" and directs the "metered air" to the proper cylinder for charging it.
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Old 03-15-2021, 12:09 PM   #32
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BTW Fraxum, the OE air intake is very doable with the LT2 intake. Let me know how you do at Atco, I am following you and your progress... hope you do not mind. Another BTW, did you see any oil film inside the OE intake when you took it off? I did and am thinking of putting on my Elite engineering catch can I took off my 2015 stingray before I sold it.
No oil film here. 3k miles, 40 odd Atco 1/4s.

I just ran out of time to try the stock CAI. And another member has said they got help and got the RF to seal. With the engine sputtering I just decided to give up for now.

One other thing is although I have the C8 cover I think there will be very little air going over the engine. Although it looks cool. And the motor is a Corvette engine anyway.
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Old 03-15-2021, 01:54 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobble Goat View Post

The MAF sensor meters the air, not the throttle body.


WOW! Sounds like it would be fruitless to explain this one....
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Old 03-15-2021, 02:22 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95 imp View Post


WOW! Sounds like it would be fruitless to explain this one....
"The mass air flow (MAF) sensor, part of your vehicle's electronic fuel injection system, is responsible for calculating the total amount of air entering the engine."

"The throttle body is an important part of your air intake system that controls the air flowing into your engine. It's located between your air intake and engine manifold where fresh air is pulled into the engine for the combustion process."



"Listen Slick... can I give you a word of advice?

When you wish to publicly belittle someone in order to show your superiority, one should explain his reasons so as to drive the point home."
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Old 03-15-2021, 03:44 PM   #35
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Now that this topic has been brought back up has anyone datalogged an Lt2 intake on an otherwise bone stock car to see if the a/f is still in an acceptable range throughout the rev range?
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Old 03-15-2021, 05:04 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Wobble Goat View Post
I doubt you didn't torque the bolts enough to allow a vacuum leak. If that were the case your car would be idling like crap and stalling.
this is 100% false. vacuum leaks are frequently present while retaining a smooth idle and 0 stalling.
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Old 03-15-2021, 06:47 PM   #37
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What's so hard about installing this? It looks like it should be pretty straightforward in the OP's photo.
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Old 03-15-2021, 06:48 PM   #38
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Think I solved the hose issue. Small 3/8 hose and buy this gm pcv hose with quick connect, lop off just after the bend down, and looks stock and functional. Amazon $12.
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:01 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobble Goat View Post
"The mass air flow (MAF) sensor, part of your vehicle's electronic fuel injection system, is responsible for calculating the total amount of air entering the engine."

"Listen Slick... can I give you a word of advice?

When you wish to publicly belittle someone in order to show your superiority, one should explain his reasons so as to drive the point home."
Nobody was trying to publicly belittle anyone. Somebody was helping others be more educated when they are confusing the facts and giving bad advice.

If you want to go with the MAF measuring the air, fine. We can play that game.

As long as the maximum MAF airflow parameter of the ECM isn't exceeded the computer will learn the new amount of airflow and add fuel as necessary to compensate (provided that is within the parameters).

If they are outside of the program parameters, you need to "move the chains" to realign it.

Simple as that.
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:31 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2 View Post
First u torque to 75, now to 85. I guess you don’t believe in manufacture torque specs 89. Correct torquing reduces the chance of any vacuum leaks and complete gasket seal.
Quite simple, I Did not like the feel of torqueing each bolt and going right back over them to feel each bolt take more turns without changing the torque setting on the wrench. This happened at least 2 times on each torque sequence before I increased the torque setting on the wrench. 1st pass 25 inch lbs, 2nd pass 40 in lbs, 3rd pass 75 inch lbs and 4th pass next day 85 inch lbs. My cel went out after a drive with cel on, and off after ist restart with steady 75 inch lbs torque reading. The cel came on originally after my first completed 75 inch lb of torque road test retart, not while i was driving. Cel went out after retorqe hot intake not while driving but after a restart. When the 75 inch lbs of torque felt good and stopped taking more and light went out, I went to 85 inch lbs next day I do not have a scanner to check codes, was going to do that if the light stayed on. I never got an immediate CEL, so I knew it was not a electrical connection.
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Old 03-15-2021, 09:25 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by lt4camaro View Post
Quite simple, I Did not like the feel of torqueing each bolt and going right back over them to feel each bolt take more turns without changing the torque setting on the wrench. This happened at least 2 times on each torque sequence before I increased the torque setting on the wrench. 1st pass 25 inch lbs, 2nd pass 40 in lbs, 3rd pass 75 inch lbs and 4th pass next day 85 inch lbs. My cel went out after a drive with cel on, and off after ist restart with steady 75 inch lbs torque reading. The cel came on originally after my first completed 75 inch lb of torque road test retart, not while i was driving. Cel went out after retorqe hot intake not while driving but after a restart. When the 75 inch lbs of torque felt good and stopped taking more and light went out, I went to 85 inch lbs next day I do not have a scanner to check codes, was going to do that if the light stayed on. I never got an immediate CEL, so I knew it was not a electrical connection.
You have 4 more pounds to go for to tighten them down to specs. You should submit your method to the GM Performance Department. That’s a lot of work just to simply bolt down some intake bolts. Did you at least tighten them in the correct pattern?
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Old 03-16-2021, 09:01 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2 View Post
You have 4 more pounds to go for to tighten them down to specs. You should submit your method to the GM Performance Department. That’s a lot of work just to simply bolt down some intake bolts. Did you at least tighten them in the correct pattern?
Read my postings, I mentioned sequence multiple times and yes I was over cautious doing what I was doing. I also need to tell GM performance the LT2 intake is better than the LT1 intake and use it on the LT1 camaro, but they would never sign off on that. I should also tell GM performance the LT1 needs a catch can to eliminate as much pcv oil mist as possible from being inhaled into the intake manifold, but they would not sign off on that either. The GM performance engineers know a lot more than I ever will, but I will make the car perform better with simple mods that are also done by so many other Corvette and Camaro owners not satisfied with GM compromises.
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