[SilverCamaroVert]

Errr, no it doesn't.

The Nav TV is as far as I also know, the only unit that properly interfaces with the AVB signal. The fix is just an advanced summing processor. I used the DM-608 for the first year and it was OK. AVB-GM is night and day better than the summing methods... when it works. I too am on the list of anxious individuals waiting for version x.0 with proper Toslink.

[djcwardog]

Metra has some parts and kits they list as “2016 Up”. Type in a 2019 Camaro and you see them. Type in a 2021 Camaro and there’s nothing yet. Lots of AXXESS choices for DSP, etc. Here’s one for 2019-Up radio replacement that looks promising: http://metraonline.com/files/product...GMLN30_web.pdf The notes indicate that this kit is for “non-amplified models only.” But it shows IOS and IOT radios under applications. Does that mean it works with the 7” (non-Bose) IOS audio systems? And here is a kit http://metraonline.com/files/product...7-GM3B_web.pdf designed specifically for the Pioneer DMH-C2550NEX and DMH-C2500NEX radios. Similar kit http://metraonline.com/part/108-GM3B but for Pioneer’s larger DMH-C5500NEX 8" radio. While these kits don’t yet appear to provide 2019+ Camaros with full aftermarket stereo choices, they are a good start. By the way, the Pioneer DMH-C5500NEX seems to be a great solution for any variety of custom installations in cars that just won’t take the depth of a new radio chassis. You just mount the 8” display where needed and put the chassis anywhere out of sight. Use the supplied cable or buy a longer extension cable to get the signal from the chassis to the screen.

[djcwardog]

The photos show the IOS radio I pulled out and the IOT I swapped in. Those codes are not found on these units. Instead the IOS equates to a “MY21 Mid” and the IOT equates to a “MY21 High”.

[abizzle]

Originally Posted by Petrol Head

Right now there's actually NOTHING available on the market that will specifically work with the IOS/IOT code system for the 2019+ Camaros with Bose/nav.

NAV TV has suspended production of the ZEN AVB due to the chip shortage. None of the other systems you mention are actually engineered to integrate seamlessly into the factory system using General Motors IO data architecture and hardware harness plug designs.

The ZEN was the only device on the market that was literally plug and play, removing the factory Bose amp and plugging the ZEN in into it's place. It takes the 9 speaker multiplex digital data and mixes/decodes it down to 4 speaker, 2 channel analog audio with RCA outputs for standard 12 volt analog car stereo aftermarket amplifiers. It retains all factory chimes, turn signals, backup sensor indicators, and all other reminders. It also eliminates the active bass rolloff the factory uses to keep you from blowing your rear package shelf woofers by reducing bass boost as you turn the volume up, and gives you full bandwidith to all channels eliminating the crossed over tweeters in the doors and woofers in the rear package shelf.

I am not sure how well the other products would work in our cars, but the ZEN is really the only one I've read that actually does at least what I want - a full range signal 4 speaker, 2 channel stereo that includes all factory chimes.

You have to be careful and read everything on these other vendor's website pages. I just briefly looked at axxess - they say it's compatible with the IOS/IOT system which is the Bose factory system, but in the description of the individual processor it says "compatible with non-amplified systems only". Well IOS/IOT is amplified. IOS is non-nav, IOT is with nav.

Frankly I would never trust any device made by a company that cannot get the specifics of the actual device accurate on their website. These are complex systems in modern cars and you need the EXACT component that is engineered SPECIFICALLY for your exact year/make/model/trim.

The RPO codes you listed are not exactly correct. Here’s a list of codes and the differences:

IOS: 8” touchscreen infotainment system w/o navigation
IOU: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation (Only available with Y29 or Y3I packages)
IOT: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation and extra memory
IO5: 8” touchscreen infotainment system w/o navigation and with 4G/Wi-Fi connectivity
IO6: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation and with 4G/Wi-Fi connectivity
UQA: Premium sound with Bose and 7-speaker sound system

[TacticalByte]

Originally Posted by abizzle

The RPO codes you listed are not exactly correct. Here’s a list of codes and the differences:

IOS: 8” touchscreen infotainment system w/o navigation
IOU: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation (Only available with Y29 or Y3I packages)
IOT: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation and extra memory
IO5: 8” touchscreen infotainment system w/o navigation and with 4G/Wi-Fi connectivity
IO6: 8” touchscreen infotainment system with navigation and with 4G/Wi-Fi connectivity
UQA: Premium sound with Bose and 7-speaker sound system

I thought IO5/IO6 were the 7" screens? no? I also though 2021-2022 were simply either IOR, IOS, or IOT now...

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by TacticalByte

I thought IO5/IO6 were the 7" screens? no? I also though 2021-2022 were simply either IOR, IOS, or IOT now...

My car is an I06 and a UQA. 2016 2SS Bose. I think UQA is for the Bose, then there is a different code for non-Bose.

-Geoff

[SlapJack]

Anyone in the Houston area upgrade the stereo system.I am in the process of purchasing a ZL1 and the stereo stinks as bad as the one that came with my Tundra. For 3000 dollars I drove to Helotes Texas and had an outfit redo the system and it sounds great. I am looking for any shop in Texas that specifically knows the ZL1 stereo system and knows how to redo or add to the stereo system so it sounds loud and proud!!. Thank you in advance

[Booher]

I just transferred my stereo from 2017 ss to 2019 zl1, and there are some differences for sure. I had a plate mounted to the floor to lay out my equipment. But I had to modify it to work. Sub thump harness for speaker signal pnp harness works, colors don't match but online description verified it and I tried it myself no problem. The anc is simple, 2 ways to do it. Cut 1 wire from each pair of mics in the doors or near your amp, or you could depin the harness. My last car I depinned it np, this car, I spent 30 minutes trying and gave up, cut the 2 wires about 3 " from amp so can reconnect if meeded for some reason and heat shrinked the ends. You don't need all that fancy equipment, just get an audiocontrol lc2 or any other digital sound processor aka dsp. So just a heads up, hooking up a 2019+ is the same as the older ones, at least for subs, minus the floor layout being different and harder to depin. I can't upload pics from my phone, very annoying. I'll try to upload some later when I have access to a computer to convert files

[DJC]

I could not get a password reset to work on my old djcwardog account here, so I finally set up a new account. Anyway, I sold the 2021 LT1 and bought a 2021 2SS. I found a NAV-TV ZEN AVB-GM on eBay but could not get the bugs out even after reloading it with the latest firmware. It was intended to feed my AudioControl D6.1200 for a complete bypass of the factory Bose amp. Luckily I was able to return the ZEN AVB-GM to my seller without hassle. So, with my D6.1200 back in its box here’s what I’ve settled on as a satisfactory upgrade for now.

1) Swap out the Bose speakers in doors and the dash. I used Infinity Kappa 693C components for the 6”x9” woofers in each door and 1” tweeters. Infinity Kappa Perfect 300 for the 3.5” center channel and their Kappa 203S for the stock dash 2.5” left and right locations.

A. The factory grille covers left (short) and right (halfway across the dash) were modified to accept the 1” tweeters as a surface mount per my photos. On the right side, I relieved (careful use of a 1.5” hole saw!) the dash corner under where the new tweeter magnet rests to prevent the dash cover from being pushed up. I didn’t think it was needed on the left side, but now I see that panel as a bit high compared to the door trim line. Hmmmm…. I also used matte black paint followed by artists matte finish to try and make the new tweeters a closer match to the Chevy trim. I ran a new wire from each tweeter back to the trunk area. I used the factory wiring to connect the (now) midrange in the factory tweeter location, same for the 6x9 woofer in the doors. Liberal use of Dynamat “while in there” to solidify the doors.

B. In the trunk, the factory lead from the Bose amp at Plug X2 for each dash corner is fed into the Infinity crossover that CAME WITH THE 693C set. Its outputs send the “woofer” signal to the new 2.5” 203S speakers using the factory wiring from the amp and the tweeter signal to my new tweeters using the new speaker wire I ran to the trunk. No worries about sending deep bass to those little 2.5’s as the factory Bose system hi-passes those locations anyway. In effect, you’re just raising the floor of the signal that Infinity expects to see for their woofer because Bose is not sending a full range signal there anyway. The crossover from mid to tweeter still works as Infinity intended. Because I had already bought it, I used the X2 harness to make the cuts and splices to feed the crossover and then send the midrange signal out on the factory wiring to the dash.

2. Also in the trunk, ******** (name suppressed by forum bots?) sent me their single 10” sub box and a pair of plug and play speaker harnesses to deal with X1 and X2 speaker outputs of the Bose amp. I bought their 6G-BZT/ANC kit and also the 6G-NB-JBP which gave me “the connector sets for the first two amp plugs and you can create your own harness from there.“ Their X1 kit also came with the X3 harness to bypass the factory ANC - critical to do if adding a sub. I needed both if replacing the Bose amp (as originally intended). If only adding a sub to your Bose, then use their X1 (and X3 for ANC delete) kit to add your sub. The X2 harness makes splicing in the new tweeters and crossovers much easier. Plus, it will be needed someday if we get a good AVB solution.

3. I used a JBL Club a600 subwoofer amp. It accepts speaker level inputs and it also turns on by sensing a signal on those inputs, just throw a small “GTO” switch.

4. The sub amp feeds a single JL Audio 10W3 firing forward against the rear seat back.

5. Tune to suit. I have the 10” sub low-passed at 65 HZ for now and I set its level by ear using white noise. I also biased the Fader to the rear a bit to even up the perceived sound levels and preserve a solid front sound stage. Note that the factory pair of rear subs on the rear deck area are still in use. The factory 6.5” rear side speakers also remain untouched. In effect, I’ve added two tweeters and a real sub to the factory Bose system.

6. Next steps: I think that the center channel needs a bit of boost to match how it sounded with the original three Bose dash speakers but the soundstage is quite nice anyway. True tweeters right next to the new 2.5 mids make for quite an improvement to my ears. I may try putting the factory center back in to see if that does more for the sound stage or not.

7. If I had been able to use the ZEN AVB-GM, then I could have tried using both the 693C crossovers AND the midrange crossover that comes with the 203S speakers. When you plug those two together and select “3-way” on the 693C crossover you have a three-way crossover for the doors, mids and new tweeter.

The photos show what came out of the car and how I integrated the new Infinity speakers along with the trunk details. I soldered up the harnesses inside and then took those out to the car to plug in.

[SilverCamaroVert]

Were you trying to use spdif? They disabled that in code. You have to use the rcas for now. They supposedly are making a new version they will swap us for as the original is a poor design they couldn’t fix. Covid supposedly got in the way due to supply chain issues.

Interesting thing to note. Those baffles on the factory Bose speakers are actually important. I had my car at the dealer during a heavy rain day after swapping to aftermarket and sure enough, it leaks into the car without those. Gets into the back of the ring and then came through the screw hole. It was all rusty.

I made some baffles out of an old tote cover to deflect the water.

[DJC]

Originally Posted by SilverCamaroVert

Were you trying to use spdif? They disabled that in code. You have to use the rcas for now. They supposedly are making a new version they will swap us for as the original is a poor design they couldn’t fix. Covid supposedly got in the way due to supply chain issues.

Interesting thing to note. Those baffles on the factory Bose speakers are actually important. I had my car at the dealer during a heavy rain day after swapping to aftermarket and sure enough, it leaks into the car without those. Gets into the back of the ring and then came through the screw hole. It was all rusty.

I made some baffles out of an old tote cover to deflect the water.

I thought about reusing those baffles but haven’t done so yet. Those factory mounting brackets could easily be made “sacrificial” by cutting the stock driver out. Then install the new drivers onto the factory plastic with no further need for the Metra adapters. I used RCA’s knowing that the TOSLINK feeds were inop. My amp doesn’t accept the fiber input anyway.

[SilverCamaroVert]

Ah. Odd it wouldn’t work. Mine works “fine” other than the occasional failure to boot which I solved with a switch I ran to under the dash.

The rca is noisy compared to when the toslink was working but I’m going to a audiocontrol dsp.

I’m disappointed with metra. They have failed in this area. I lived a summer of hell because of the water/mold damage. It finally doesn’t smell much. The dealer replaced the entire carpet, cleaned everything about 10 times and ran ozone machines for days. They were super chill about it given it really was my mods that did it although they never said that. They didn’t charge a dime.

[mariojas]

Originally Posted by DJC

I could not get a password reset to work on my old djcwardog account here, so I finally set up a new account. Anyway, I sold the 2021 LT1 and bought a 2021 2SS. I found a NAV-TV ZEN AVB-GM on eBay but could not get the bugs out even after reloading it with the latest firmware. It was intended to feed my AudioControl D6.1200 for a complete bypass of the factory Bose amp. Luckily I was able to return the ZEN AVB-GM to my seller without hassle. So, with my D6.1200 back in its box here’s what I’ve settled on as a satisfactory upgrade for now.

1) Swap out the Bose speakers in doors and the dash. I used Infinity Kappa 693C components for the 6”x9” woofers in each door and 1” tweeters. Infinity Kappa Perfect 300 for the 3.5” center channel and their Kappa 203S for the stock dash 2.5” left and right locations.

A. The factory grille covers left (short) and right (halfway across the dash) were modified to accept the 1” tweeters as a surface mount per my photos. On the right side, I relieved (careful use of a 1.5” hole saw!) the dash corner under where the new tweeter magnet rests to prevent the dash cover from being pushed up. I didn’t think it was needed on the left side, but now I see that panel as a bit high compared to the door trim line. Hmmmm…. I also used matte black paint followed by artists matte finish to try and make the new tweeters a closer match to the Chevy trim. I ran a new wire from each tweeter back to the trunk area. I used the factory wiring to connect the (now) midrange in the factory tweeter location, same for the 6x9 woofer in the doors. Liberal use of Dynamat “while in there” to solidify the doors.

B. In the trunk, the factory lead from the Bose amp for each dash corner is fed into the Infinity crossover that CAME WITH THE 693C set. Its outputs send the “woofer” signal to the new 2.5” 203S speakers using the factory wiring from the amp and the tweeter signal to my new tweeters using the new speaker wire I ran to the trunk. No worries about sending deep bass to those little 2.5’s as the factory Bose system hi-passes those locations anyway. In effect, you’re just raising the floor of the signal that Infinity expects to see for their woofer because Bose is not sending a full range signal there anyway. The crossover from mid to tweeter still works as Infinity intended.

2. Also in the trunk, ******** (name suppressed by forum bots?) sent me their single 10” sub box and a pair of plug and play speaker harnesses to deal with X1 and X2 speaker outputs of the Bose amp. I bought their 6G-BZT/ANC kit and also the 6G-NB-JBP which gave me “the connector sets for the first two amp plugs and you can create your own harness from there.“ Their X1 kit also came with the X4 harness to bypass the factory ANC - critical to do if adding a sub. I needed both if replacing the Bose amp (as originally intended) but I only used their X1 (and X4 for ANC delete) kit to add a sub because I kept the Bose amp. The X2 harness awaits use someday if we get a good AVB solution. Their X1 harness gives you the stereo pair of outputs from the door woofers which you feed into…

3. I used a JBL Club a600 subwoofer amp. It accepts speaker level inputs and it also turns on by sensing a signal on those inputs, just throw a small “GTO” switch.

4. The sub amp feeds a single JL Audio 10W3 firing forward against the rear seat back.

5. Tune to suit. I have the 10” sub low-passed at 65 HZ for now and I set its level by ear using white noise. I also biased the Fader to the rear a bit to even up the perceived sound levels and preserve a solid front sound stage. Note that the factory pair of rear subs on the rear deck area are still in use. The factory 6.5” rear side speakers also remain untouched. In effect, I’ve added two tweeters and a real sub to the factory Bose system.

6. Next steps: I think that the center channel needs a bit of boost to match how it sounded with the original three Bose dash speakers but the soundstage is quite nice anyway. True tweeters right next to the new 2.5 mids make for quite an improvement to my ears. I may try putting the factory center back in to see if that does more for the sound stage or not.

7. If I had been able to use the ZEN AVB-GM, then I could have tried using both the 693C crossovers AND the midrange crossover that comes with the 203S speakers. When you plug those two together and select “3-way” on the 693C crossover you have a three-way crossover for the doors, mids and new tweeter.

The photos show what came out of the car and how I integrated the new Infinity speakers along with the trunk details. I soldered up the harnesses inside and then took those out to the car to plug in.

Do you have a link for this sub enclosure? It looks like it fits extremely good. Is it easy to take it out, for some hauling of long stuff from home depot?

BTW. Anybody have schematic for this magical t-harness?

[keep_hope_alive]

I agree that it's important to recreate the watershed baffle to save the speakers from being wet and bringing water into the cabin. Since it's likely coming from the actual window glass above, the baffle needs to be deep enough to cover the magnet.