[cjperformance]

No puns about the title please.

2017 2SS w/ a P1X Procharger and Auto trans.

Upgrading to Nitto NT05 (not NT05R) in 305/30R20 for rear

Do I need to worry about breaking anything if I try to give it good hard launch at the track? Axles, driveshaft, etc...

It's not like a manual where I'm dumping the clutch or anything. Just hard to find info on whether to be concerned or not.

Also, will the competition mode launch adjust to launch harder with the stickier tires? Just curious...

[grampa_ss]

Since you have the Procharger (as I do). you're not making any boost until 4k rpms or so. And if you're on the stock converter, you're not launching that hard anyways. At the strip, you leave from a dead idle. Maybe try holding the brake and smash the gas till you see the tach flash past 1,500 and then let it go. That way it doesn't roll out at all during the converter flash. If you can hold it till you see 2K then that should giver you the best 60ft... if the track will hold it.

[KingLT1]

^Agreed

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Since you have the Procharger (as I do). you're not making any boost until 4k rpms or so. And if you're on the stock converter, you're not launching that hard anyways. At the strip, you leave from a dead idle. Maybe try holding the brake and smash the gas till you see the tach flash past 1,500 and then let it go. That way it doesn't roll out at all during the converter flash. If you can hold it till you see 2K then that should giver you the best 60ft... if the track will hold it.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

^Agreed

While I agree, I’m hesitant to give the stock SS driveshaft much merit. It’s significantly weaker than the ZL1 version. I know I’m a PD blower guy, but that thing didn’t last long (and that was a few hundred horsepower less at that time too). I’m probably just paranoid at this point.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=564610

[KingLT1]

It just depends on how you launch the car. If you brake stall which loads the suspension it's easier on parts compared to flashing the converter off idle which shocks the drivetrain similar to a manual car just not as dramatic. Either way once you get below 1.6 60fts I see the stock driveshaft/axles being suspect. I doubt the OP will launch a stock converter P1 car that hard. He "might" pull a 1.7 at the track.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

It just depends on how you launch the car. If you brake stall which loads the suspension it's easier on parts compared to flashing the converter off idle which shocks the drivetrain similar to a manual car just not as dramatic. Either way once you get below 1.6 60fts I see the stock driveshaft/axles being suspect. I doubt the OP will launch a stock converter P1 car that hard. He "might" pull a 1.7 at the track.

With the tires he is getting, then you're probably right that he won't be launching all that hard. But if he uses better tires at some point, then he could be under 1.7 based on my experience. With my Paxton supercharger, which was using the base pullies for a stock LT1 engine and no methanol injection, having the stock torque converter, I ran 1.63 short time on a warm day using ET Street S/S tires for example.

[SSUNDVL]

If you are boosted and using drag radials on good prep, I would just get a DS. They are not much money and issue right now is Gforce is no longer making 6th gen Camaro drive shafts as the parts they use from dana are no longer made, they are only making them for ford and I believe dodge. They said they are working on something in house but did not have a timeline. Not sure if local drive shaft builders are using the dana part or if use something else. Forgot which part. DSS has had their balancing machine break twice in the past year, orders are taking forever. GM has a global backorder on oem auto driveshafts (8spd at least). So if you also drive your car frequently and want to race it on good prep it is good to get an order in sooner than later so you are not down for months, or at least don't push it.

Also I recently looked at some auto ds, apparently the 10spd SS uses same driveshaft (updated part number). Seems odd and looking at pictures the input looks very similar if not the same so you might be able to go with a ZL1 auto driveshaft on 8 and 10 speed SS, however I am not 100% certain.

I broke my ds at the start of the year, ordered 1 and it arrived out of balance, so still f'n around with it while it in the "rma system", in the meantime bought a used one, broke that first time out and had to buy another stock one, luckily found one at a non-gm parts store that had 1 in stock (old part number)... needless to say not drag racing for a bit as this has been a joke.

If you are racing with sticky tires on prep, even if car is not making crazy power I would still get one. Easy to install and not crazy expensive.

[danhr]

I'd get a driveshaft....... I dont trust the stock 2 piece at even bolt on levels.

[cjperformance]

Thanks for the replies! I won't know for a few weeks as all the tires/wheels haven't even arrived yet, but sounds like I at least need to look into a driveshaft for sure.

[wnta1ss]

The ZL1 driveshaft is stronger than the SS one, and GMPP even sells it as a drag racing part. Think the appropriate manual or auto will fit the appropriate SS, because member 'oldman' had bought a used M6 ZL1 driveshaft for his M6 SS as far as I recall.

[cjperformance]

This is a follow up to the above... I know this prob goes in the wheel/tire section, but being forced induction, wanted to get impressions from other FI folks...

Got everything installed:

Front:
Racestar Recluse 95 20x10 22 offset
NT 555 G2 285/30-20

Rear:
Racestar Recluse 95 20x11 41 offset
NT05 305/30-20

Not getting the hook on the street that I was expecting from the new setup. I had stock 275/35-20 (or whatever aspect ratio it was... looked at too many tires to remember stock exactly )... they were Michelin AS3+.

To be fair, the temperature dropped from mid 90s when I was driving on the AS3+ over the summer to mid 70s yesterady when testing the Nittos.

Wondering if the power gains from lower temps + the colder street/tire temps are skewing this comparison that badly. I can pretty much spin them at anything below 60 mph by smashing the gas with a downshift (auto trans).

Was hoping they'd give me better hookup on the street. Was I mistaken that they'd operate well at normal driving temps w/o doing a burnout beforehand? I was under the impression that being a softer tire, they'd still work well on stoplight launches w/o doing a burnout.

Between the AS3+ at 95 degrees F and these at 75 degrees F.... they feel about the same traction-wise. I did some highway driving and some backroad driving to get at least a little warmth in the tires.

I wish I'd been able to do a back to back comparison at same temps, but not possible at the moment.

Thoughts? Also car is dirty AF but thought I'd post a pic anyway.

[grampa_ss]

The NT05’s are not the tire of choice for the street (per this forum). Most go with the NT555R II, MT ET Street S/S or the TOYO R888R.

[SSUNDVL]

NT05R is a drag radial NT05 is not r compound, treadware is like 200 vs 345 on the R... If you can return them I would, otherwise maybe just drop tire pressure a bit.

[KingLT1]

why didn't you get 555r2's?