[lDejavul]

Did you get a chance to find that X3 Diagram for the mics? Did you cut them and if so did it make a sound difference?

[tecboy]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

Did you get a chance to find that X3 Diagram for the mics? Did you cut them and if so did it make a sound difference?

See my post ...#4..

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=446268

[lDejavul]

Originally Posted by tecboy

See my post ...#4..

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=446268

Thanks!

[JaxChris]

Originally Posted by matt713

Ok so after driving around and listening to it the past week, I have got to say that I could definitely notice a difference in the height of stage and that I was missing the sound coming from the dash tweeters. I thought I could get use to the sound coming down low from just the doors but it just didn't seem right so I had to make a change. So I swung by my local JL Audio dealer and picked up a pair of ZR100-CT tweeters!!!!! I hooked them up and man what a difference!!! I couldn't be happier with my system now!


The mounting adaptors I made are not the prettiest but they get the job done plus you cant see them mounted anyways.

Picture of the tweeters and one of the mounting adaptors


Picture of the stock Bose Driver side tweeter


Picture of the new JL Audio Passenger side tweeter


And here is a pic of the center speaker. Just took a pic of it since the dash was apart.

Had a feeling you'd be back... looks good. =)

Btw, the mesh guards on those tweeters are removable for integrated installs -- in case you had a clearance issue. Your adapters came out fine, nobody will ever see them and they don't look like they will squeak.

I'm hoping we can get "Thumper of Sub" or Gen5DIY to make a modular harness adapter that will allow for a smoother install.

Stage 1 - inline harness that allows for loopback of ANC mics
Stage 2 - splitter for line level outputs
Stage 3 - piggyback connector that allows you to run a single cable to the trunk to wire in a piggyback amp to drive the factory location wires
Stage 3.5 - inline hi-pass/lo-pass speaker plugs

Personally I need feel the need to add a woofer to the trunk. Getting a good 4ch under the trunk to drive the interior would be great with the right replacement speakers. Run hi-pass in the front, mid to the sides and lo-pass in the rear, with some rear gain bias to drive up the bass and I would be a happy camper. But I don't want to spend a week wiring it all, so a harness system would be worth a couple hundred bucks to me.

[matt713]

Originally Posted by lDejavul

Did you get a chance to find that X3 Diagram for the mics? Did you cut them and if so did it make a sound difference?

That was my bad IDejavul, I was so excited to get my tweeters installed I did forget to post that for you, sorry man. I am going to cut the mics today right after lunch.

Thank you tecboy for posting link to the diagram for him, that was the same one I had printed out at home.

Matt

[lDejavul]

Originally Posted by matt713

That was my bad IDejavul, I was so excited to get my tweeters installed I did forget to post that for you, sorry man. I am going to cut the mics today right after lunch.

Thank you tecboy for posting link to the diagram for him, that was the same one I had printed out at home.

Matt

I totally get it. My stuff comes in tomorrow and I will probably disappear too. Okay last question maybe. Did you just cut the rear subs and they are no longer playing or did you splice them? I am thinking about cutting them since I dont think you would be able to hear them anyways, just seems like a waste to have two small subs just sitting there.

[tecboy]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

Had a feeling you'd be back... looks good. =)

Btw, the mesh guards on those tweeters are removable for integrated installs -- in case you had a clearance issue. Your adapters came out fine, nobody will ever see them and they don't look like they will squeak.

I'm hoping we can get "Thumper of Sub" or Gen5DIY to make a modular harness adapter that will allow for a smoother install.

Stage 1 - inline harness that allows for loopback of ANC mics
Stage 2 - splitter for line level outputs
Stage 3 - piggyback connector that allows you to run a single cable to the trunk to wire in a piggyback amp to drive the factory location wires
Stage 3.5 - inline hi-pass/lo-pass speaker plugs

Personally I need feel the need to add a woofer to the trunk. Getting a good 4ch under the trunk to drive the interior would be great with the right replacement speakers. Run hi-pass in the front, mid to the sides and lo-pass in the rear, with some rear gain bias to drive up the bass and I would be a happy camper. But I don't want to spend a week wiring it all, so a harness system would be worth a couple hundred bucks to me.

I would like a "harness" that would include all 3 plugs....male plug on one side and female on other....all leads go from male to female plug....each lead marked what it is....then let end user decide which ones that need to be cut or spliced...there are so many variables and upgrade "stages" that users may ant to do...i think it would be too hard and take longer to release to have pre spliced leads off some of the wires...some may want to cut mics...some may only want sub..others may want to intercept all 9 speaker outputs for complete aftermarket upgrade...with how complex the Bose amp is....a male/female straight thru harness will accomplish a huge issue....not needing to cut factory wires...and have all the leads properly marked

[JaxChris]

Originally Posted by tecboy

I would like a "harness" that would include all 3 plugs....male plug on one side and female on other....all leads go from male to female plug....each lead marked what it is....then let end user decide which ones that need to be cut or spliced...there are so many variables and upgrade "stages" that users may ant to do...i think it would be too hard and take longer to release to have pre spliced leads off some of the wires...some may want to cut mics...some may only want sub..others may want to intercept all 9 speaker outputs for complete aftermarket upgrade...with how complex the Bose amp is....a male/female straight thru harness will accomplish a huge issue....not needing to cut factory wires...and have all the leads properly marked

You'll get that by the end of the year. The former vendor that cannot be named -- but their business is to help your Sub get its' Thump on. They started work on a RCA harness that will plug inline in the trunk before the Bose amp.

Reason I wanted something modular is that it would allow people to pick and choose what they want to upgrade, making any change a pre-wired plug'n'play operation. Of course, car makers could've just used existing standards for their wiring on these premium audio systems and owners could just swap amps and speakers directly -- making life so much easier.

[tecboy]

Before the Bose amp? There isn't anything pre Bose amp to intercept..it's a most input..only option to upgrade Bose system isgrab signal on output side

[JaxChris]

My young padawan... MOST is an optical network with serialized channels and ZERO encryption. You can plug any MOST device into that connector and remove the Bose amp. You remember TOS.Link, same thing in a different connector. Nothing stopping anyone from making a device to plug into that network.

There are a couple high-end DSP options from Euro companies (because they've had these things since MB started with it in 2005). Actually, Directed Electronics (Viper Alarm Systems) made the first MOST bus pre-amp DSP back in 2006. They since canned the product because nobody but MB was using MOST back then. Now a lot of makers are.

Here's some samples:
Rainbow Audio DSP
mObridge DA3
Audison bit DMI

Then you have the other way around, replace the HMI with an aftermarket radio/computer/whatever you want and keep the Bose amplifier.

Metra GMOS-MOST-01 (Branded Axxess Electronics)

[suzook]

Does anyone know what frequencies the stock dash speakers are producing? Are they tweets? Or midrange too?

[tecboy]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

My young padawan... MOST is an optical network with serialized channels and ZERO encryption. You can plug any MOST device into that connector and remove the Bose amp. You remember TOS.Link, same thing in a different connector. Nothing stopping anyone from making a device to plug into that network.

There are a couple high-end DSP options from Euro companies (because they've had these things since MB started with it in 2005). Actually, Directed Electronics (Viper Alarm Systems) made the first MOST bus pre-amp DSP back in 2006. They since canned the product because nobody but MB was using MOST back then. Now a lot of makers are.

Here's some samples:
Rainbow Audio DSP
mObridge DA3
Audison bit DMI

Then you have the other way around, replace the HMI with an aftermarket radio/computer/whatever you want and keep the Bose amplifier.

Metra GMOS-MOST-01 (Branded Axxess Electronics)

If the "vendor" you are talking about is going to one out with a pre bose option to tap in to most and had off rca...that would be even better...

Probably going to wait it out and do stereo upgrade in spring after car comes out of winter storage.,. see what all the final adapter options will be by then

[lDejavul]

Got my system setup tonight. What went from a really easy install turned into a learning adventure. First the signal sensing crap in the JL amps doesnt work very well. I do have to admit its hooked to the sub output from my amp so I get thats most likely why it didnt work very well for me. So once I ran that remote wire from F33. (thanks matt713) I had a heck of a time tuning this amp. I havent run car audio since 2001 and man there is so much more to these amps. I finally got the gain (input sensitivity) set with no clipping and it now sounds great.

You were right too matt713 I had a heck of a time getting that JL HO box in and sitting up. Might have to look at some low pass filters for the front and maybe even another amp and front speakers all together.

[JaxChris]

Originally Posted by tecboy

If the "vendor" you are talking about is going to one out with a pre bose option to tap in to most and had off rca...that would be even better...

Probably going to wait it out and do stereo upgrade in spring after car comes out of winter storage.,. see what all the final adapter options will be by then

Yes, that would be ideal (and way cheaper). The cost for the MOST integrated DSP's is up there. But the programming interface is way nicer than the dials on the amps. I'm not looking to go crazy. If the vendor comes up with a solution for under 200 that converts everything to 4 pre-amp pairs and only removes ANC signaling, I will be the first customer. I just want a way to keep my audio sources and funnel them into some more potent amps of varying RMS power output based on which speakers I'm driving. Would like to turn the rear deck into more of an open air sub panel.