[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by dbs1

To answer a few questions…it is mostly high speed decel where the brakes feel inadequate.

I need to correct my info on the brake fluid, it is Castro SRF. The only thing we have not done is run out the gy sc tires and swap over to sc r.

Part of our quandary Is coming from a 3000# c5 that had 620hp and a big brake kit that allowed it to go deep in the corners. The first thing noticeable with the ZL1 even when I first purchased it and it “only” was at 750 hp was how fat it felt compared to the Z06.

Yes, it handled better, but still was a chore to slow it down.

We probably do more straight line events with 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile as well as street driving, but all you guys saying the stock brakes are fine with just better pads and upgraded fluid are probably not making this kind of power.

The previous Z06 would run down the same straight at close to 150 before needing to brake and if we ran this car to the same spot we’d be at 170. It’s a big ole, overpowered girl.

I did have several guys at sema running in the optima street car challenge say they swapped over to the C7 carbon setup and that helped as well as a few manufactures said they would shoot us some info on their big brake setup.

I’m guessing we will not find something that is night and day difference like we did with the c5 wilwood big brake kit but it was quite an improvement.

Carbon brakes are doable with OEM GM parts if that's a direction you want to explore. There are some threads on the forum. I pasted a couple below that were easy to find, but I'm sure there are more.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=617951
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596237

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by NG329

Power affects acceleration mostly and top speed occasionally, so I'm not seeing how it affects braking. How often are you seeing 160+mph? ...because I routinely stop from 150+mph 15-20 times in a 20 minute session at the track, about 5-6 times per day. That's 75-100 times a day and if I start the day with new pads I usually would still have 6-8mm of pad left and no cracking on the rotors.

Based on my personal experience, I have to call BS, albeit respectfully, on the idea that the stock brakes are not enough simply based on how much horsepower your car has.

As someone else suggested, you may want to look into high temp brake fluid. I recommend Castrol SRF, and PFC 665 Racing Brake Fluid (Motul is junk). These can be left in the car for street driving and they give consistent performance at the track. No more mushy pedal.

*GM recommends changing the brake fluid as well if you're going to be running the car hard.

Try better fluid before going to an exotic brake setup. You may be pleasantly surprised.

One last thing, bleeding the car correctly is a must. No matter what fluid you're using, if you have air in the system the brakes will feel like crap and will get worse as they heat up.

It's the rate of acceleration that is the issue when you make more power. He is likely reaching 150mph a lot quicker than you are which requires more brake power to slow down.

[Katech_Zach]

Originally Posted by dbs1

To answer a few questions…it is mostly high speed decel where the brakes feel inadequate.

I need to correct my info on the brake fluid, it is Castro SRF. The only thing we have not done is run out the gy sc tires and swap over to sc r.

Part of our quandary Is coming from a 3000# c5 that had 620hp and a big brake kit that allowed it to go deep in the corners. The first thing noticeable with the ZL1 even when I first purchased it and it “only” was at 750 hp was how fat it felt compared to the Z06.

Yes, it handled better, but still was a chore to slow it down.

We probably do more straight line events with 1/4 mile and 1/2 mile as well as street driving, but all you guys saying the stock brakes are fine with just better pads and upgraded fluid are probably not making this kind of power.

The previous Z06 would run down the same straight at close to 150 before needing to brake and if we ran this car to the same spot we’d be at 170. It’s a big ole, overpowered girl.

I did have several guys at sema running in the optima street car challenge say they swapped over to the C7 carbon setup and that helped as well as a few manufactures said they would shoot us some info on their big brake setup.

I’m guessing we will not find something that is night and day difference like we did with the c5 wilwood big brake kit but it was quite an improvement.

High horsepower, heavy weight car.... Of course its going to be taxing on brakes.

The changes you need to make:

• Switch to a good tire, the 220 treadwear supercar 3's are going to hold you back if you are going for max stopping power. Switch to something 100 TW or less.
  
• Fluid: Switch to Endless 650 or Brembo HTC 64T, these 2 fluids have extremely low compressibility and will give you much better pedal feel / pressure per inch of travel
  
• Lines: Switch to stainless steel lines
  
• Pads: Hawk DTC70/60 combo is very hard to beat
  
• Accessories: Racing brake stainless steel pistons / high temp boots / girodisc titanium shis
  
• Rotors: Girodisc rotors are great

The only options that beat this combo are true racing brakes, because the factory caliper just isn't as capable as a racing caliper.

I had zero issues stopping my 1000HP ZL1 from speeds, I used OEM rotors with pagid endurance pads.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

It's the rate of acceleration that is the issue when you make more power. He is likely reaching 150mph a lot quicker than you are which requires more brake power to slow down.

Thanks. Now that you mention it, I guess that does make sense. ...if he's carrying more acceleration G's when building up to 150+mph, the shift in weight distribution would be more violent at that speed as he transitions to the brakes. Also, taking into consideration that he may need to come to a crawling speed after a run, versus a track rat carrying 80mph into turn 1 thereby needing to scrub off less speed in the latter's case.

With all that being said, those 15.5" rotors are as good as it gets. I feel that what you gain in cooling by going to a small after market rotor due to slotting, you lose in outright stopping power. If I were a guessing man I'd say to keep the OEM rotors and go to an aftermarket pad that offers more initial bite along with better brake fluid.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by Katech_Zach

I had zero issues stopping my 1000HP ZL1 from speeds, I used OEM rotors with pagid endurance pads.

This.

[Camfab]

The copper free brakes use a larger rotor, coupled with the correct pads (if available) may help. You may break ground in that department. I could be wrong but I believe they are the same size as the Blackwing units (same platform). Don’t know if the calipers, mounts etc. are different than the standard ZL1 units.

[AZ_1LE]

I run GLOC street pads on the street, and then G12's on the front and G10's out back for track days. G18's are for serious REALLY high speed endurance racing and will mostly eat your stock rotors faster than you'd think. But these pads are a HUGE difference compared to the street pads on track and are extremely consistent and able to deal with plenty of abuse.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

R18 I think.

I see they are not recommended for street use. Is that actually true though?

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I see they are not recommended for street use. Is that actually true though?

If you read the reason why it's because of dust and squeaky brakes. All of which the stock pads do as well. But the difference is the pads need to be warm and don't do as well when cold.

You could go R16 up front and R12 out back instead.

You can just swap them out with the stock pads when you're not racing. Literally takes maybe 20 minutes to do in your garage or driveway.

You can also try Hawk DTC 70 (front) and 60 (rear).

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I see they are not recommended for street use. Is that actually true though?

Main reasons for this are they don't really work until they're up to temperature, and they are EXTREMELY noisy, think about what an old school bus sounds like and multiply that times 10.

[dbs1]

Lots of great suggestions. If the above is who I think it is I visited with ur dad at optima when u had to bug out quickly. Was hoping to visit with you as well.
I’ve been by ur house when I first got the car several years ago and you gave me some tips and I run the g loc pads you suggested for street and track. Ur car was my fave at Vegas.

Currently have had an old injury flare up that may sideline me for a bit so car stuff currently on hold.

Thanks for all the great suggestions folks!

[Slurpee]

How do the R18 compare to the R16? Based off of what I can find online, R18 is more aggressive than DTC 70. I was thinking of trying R16, which is supposed to mimic DTC 70s, but not sure if it would be inadequate on slicks.

[Mountain]

Do you know what your brake rotor temps are?

Do you know what your brake caliper temps are?

You need to know what that is before you start throwing parts at an issue like this because it will help you direct your funds in the right place.

Not to sound in a way talking down to you (because I don't know you/your level of knowledge, so sorry), but it may even be down to a "driver mod" in how and where you are braking on track. I only say this because of the mention of the prior C5 car that is significantly less in weight, but also not as fast in the straights (into a corner).

[Corey7519]

High temp fluid - stainless lines to replace the rubber - hawk pads 7s all around - helped me ALOT - still heat up but only a smaller softer red glow. No brake fade at all. But im only 750 at the wheels