[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Ummpwr

Just installed my set last night.

Very nice product ��

I didn't even need to use a spring compressor, just loosen the top nut very slowly and then have one person press down on the spring while another starts the top center nut.

Anyway, I'm maxed out with the camber plates setting and close but not quite maxed out on the strut adjustment.

Could probably get to -4.0 if wanted to bit at -3.5 front camber now.

What camber are others running for CAMC Autox?

Eric

The last hash mark on the plate as seen in your picture gives me about -3.6 degrees camber and that's what I run on the track when I road race. It takes MAYBE 10 minutes to go from that setting to my street setting of -2.2 degrees. I have found on my car that the SECOND HASH mark from the TOP is about -2.2 degrees camber. I have used these plates for over a year and they work GREAT. Using these plates, MORE negative camber DOES NOT move the wheels any closer to the strut as the WHOLE assembly pivots in and out at the TOP of the strut.

[kropscamaro16]

im at -3 front without camber plates just the spl parts but i just ordered up a mcs 1 way kit this morning with the vorshlag camber plates cant wait!

[kropscamaro16]

talked to them this morning should be done in a week or so!

[Crushed 1LE]

Just a quick question. How are you guys making the adjustments? Do you simply jack the corner up, loosen the 3 nuts and then what? Is there enough movement that you can grab the strut and move it by hand, or do you need to use a block of wood and a hammer? Or some other method.

I've got these plates, and I'll be damned if I can get them to slide! Am I doing something wrong?

[kropscamaro16]

ive never touched mine since i got them installed but i saw my alignment guy loose some stuff under neath and then take a hammer and a block of wood to get them to move

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Crushed 1LE

Just a quick question. How are you guys making the adjustments? Do you simply jack the corner up, loosen the 3 nuts and then what? Is there enough movement that you can grab the strut and move it by hand, or do you need to use a block of wood and a hammer? Or some other method.

I've got these plates, and I'll be damned if I can get them to slide! Am I doing something wrong?

You jack up the side that needs adjustment with the tire at least 4-5 inches OFF the ground. Loosen the three nuts on top. Take BOTH your hands PUSH INWARD near the top of the spring. My suggestion would be to SHOVE the strut assembly as far INWARD as it will go. This SHOULD result in about -3.5 to -3.7 degrees camber. Once you shove it over with both hands , you should be able to hold it in place with ONE hand and then with your free hand use a rachet to tighten the three bolts until they are firm. TORQUE the bolts to 20 foot pounds. This usually only takes about 5 minutes per side.

I used to do this process EVERY time I went to the track. BUT I am currently running the same settings for daily driving as I do for TRACK. The IMPORTANT thing is that you set up your toe-in toe out setting to be almost neutral. This is what will prevent premature tire wear.

I CURRENTLY run -3.7 camber on front and -2.7 camber on rear (have to use SPL TOE RODS to get this much rear camber). NOTE: I am running MORE aggressive camber settings than what I originally did when the alignment below was done.

[Crushed 1LE]

Thanks for the info. I did find out if you quickly disconnect the sway bar links it loosens the strut assembly considerably, allowing for ease of movement.

[GunMetalGrey]

Resurrecting this thread; what is the point of getting camber plates if you can already get -3.3° camber in the front? Assuming you don’t want even more negative camber and you are willing to drive on the street with track settings…

Are there any other advantages? Does it hold and keep the alignment more stable and consistent for longer? Does it save the alignment shop time and therefore money for every alignment? Or does it have something to do with toe and castor settings being compromised as a result of the high negative camber?

I currently have -3.3° camber in the front of my ZL1 without camber plates, I am happy to get them if there is a good reason but did not want to waste $1000 Canadian

[kropscamaro16]

i have most of my camber in the bottom and some of it in the top not sure why they did it that way but it works for me lol

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have most of my camber in the bottom and some of it in the top not sure why they did it that way but it works for me lol

So what improvement or benefit did they give you over and above your already -3 camber before you had the plates installed?

Does your front end alignemnt stay more stable and consistent for longer?

[kropscamaro16]

yup i have full spl parts mcs coilovers and vorshlag camber plates about 5-6 track days a year and only have to go to alignement shop once a year or so to get a checkup

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

yup i have full spl parts mcs coilovers and vorshlag camber plates about 5-6 track days a year and only have to go to alignement shop once a year or so to get a checkup

But specifically, did your front end alignment start to become more stable and consistent for longer after you added the Camber plates in particular?

[sr71bb]

[QUOTE=GunMetalGrey;11304368]So what improvement or benefit did they give you over and above your already -3 camber before you had the plates installed?

Does your front end alignemnt stay more stable and consistent for longer?[

/Slicks like all the camber you can throw at them especially when you have heavier cars like ours. The turning response is quicker at 3.9 camber vs 3.3 camber. The car also transitions faster It may actually be more noticeable on a ZL1 due to the heavier nose weight vs an SS 1LE

Sent from my iPhone

[GunMetalGrey]

[QUOTE=sr71bb;11304411]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

So what improvement or benefit did they give you over and above your already -3 camber before you had the plates installed?

Does your front end alignemnt stay more stable and consistent for longer?[

/Slicks like all the camber you can throw at them especially when you have heavier cars like ours. The turning response is quicker at 3.9 camber vs 3.3 camber. The car also transitions faster It may actually be more noticeable on a ZL1 due to the heavier nose weight vs an SS 1LE

Sent from my iPhone

Gotchya.

Does anyone know how much caster is too much caster? I know that when I get up to -3.3 camber without camber plates, the caster starts going up as well… I assume that with camber plates the caster can be made to stay where it was stock OEM if desired.

I’d also still like to know if camber plates help hold the alignment stable and consistent for longer than without.