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Old 12-10-2020, 01:59 PM   #15
Nitronut
 
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Drives: Duramax, 2018 Camaro SS 1LE
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Take your 7/8th brake wrench and place it onto the inside brake bleeder nipple

Those are some big bleeders LOL.
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Old 11-04-2021, 03:32 PM   #16
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I believe he meant 7/16th's (at least that fits my standard 2017 SS's brakes).

But I found an 11mm box wrench to be a bit better (snugger). Also, I prefer to use the box end placed on the bleeder valve first, then the tubing to drain into. The tube holds the wrench in place, just orient the wrench to be ready to open the valve, then open and close as needed. When finished with that side, just repeat in the order carguy55 updated. Just my 2 cents worth.

Thank you OP, great post!

One last thing, just in case you're not aware- bleeder valves are made of brass (soft stuff) and the Brembo caliper is aluminum. Do not over tighten. Tighter to be sure is not better and may result in stripped threads and leaks. Wish I could provide an inch/pound spec. but I don't know it.

Update: I've seen a spec. here on C6 from Member Alpha1BC that quotes Brembo torque specs as 17-20Nm or 150-177in/lbs for the bleeder valves (that would make the high value at 14.75 FT/lbs). Spark plug torque spec is 10lbs I believe. This number seemed a little tight to myself and a few other members. My valves are sealing well at 80in/lbs or 9.0Nm. Use your best judgement but if you don't have experience with bleeder valves, please use a torque wrench not a dork wrench.
Last edit- Spoke to my Subaru Service Center today and their torque spec for my CrossTrek bleeders is 70in/lbs.

Last edited by Ventmaster; 06-05-2022 at 04:46 PM.
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Old 11-11-2021, 04:29 PM   #17
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Finished my first bleed using the Motive Power Bleeder. Keep in mind if you follow this procedure you will be using using about 550ml of brake fluid just to flush and refill the master cylinder 3 times (I could extract about 180ml each time I pulled out the dirty stuff). My bottles held 500ml each (Motol 660) and I had 4. Long story short, it took 3- 500ml bottles to complete the job to my satisfaction- one just for flushing and refilling the m/c prior to Power Bleed and 2 more to bleed the lines and both bleeder valves on each caliper.

I haven't done a shake down drive yet but the clutch is firm and the brake pedal is hard.

Held my breath and took the car out knowing there was some chance I'd introduced air into the system, but I'm happy to report the pedal is rock hard firm and the car will stop on a dime! I strongly recommend anyone with a 5 year old car (I have less than 17K miles on her and live in a low humidity environment) go ahead and bleed out the old fluid. you won't regret the effort.

Last caveat- when opening the bleeder valve don't get in a hurry and open it much more than a 1/4 turn. Keep in mind the "valve" is threaded on both ends and if you remove it too far it is going to allow air to be drawn in around it, giving the impression you're bleeding air out of the system when you are not. You could be there all day and waste a lot of brake fluid. In short, take your time.

Last edited by Ventmaster; 11-25-2021 at 01:05 PM.
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Old 01-29-2022, 10:00 PM   #18
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Resurrecting this old thread, glad I found it as I’ll be changing my fluid over before I hit the track this spring. I’ve bleed brakes many times on automatics and didn’t even think about the clutch.
My question is this, shouldn’t there be an easier way to drain the clutch fluid? There isn’t a clutch bleeder someplace? I have a couple liters of castrol SRF on standby for when I go to do this but at $70 a pop Id prefer not to have to buy a third.
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Old 05-31-2022, 10:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivid_O_1LE View Post
Resurrecting this old thread, glad I found it as Iíll be changing my fluid over before I hit the track this spring. Iíve bleed brakes many times on automatics and didnít even think about the clutch.
My question is this, shouldnít there be an easier way to drain the clutch fluid? There isnít a clutch bleeder someplace? I have a couple liters of castrol SRF on standby for when I go to do this but at $70 a pop Id prefer not to have to buy a third.

There is a bleeder but in a spot that's very difficult to get to. There are company that sells TR6060 Bleeder Extension Line.


Below is a pic of the TR6060 Transmission from the SS. The bleeder screw is on the left side in the middle of the pic at the bell housing, you can see the rubber cap on it.



I got the pic from this thread: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=471480



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Old 08-09-2022, 06:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carguy55 View Post
Error in your bleed order Step 44. This is per the GM service manual:

1. Inside passenger rear, outside passenger rear,
2. Inside driver front, outside driver front)
3. Inside driver rear, outside driver rear,
4. Inside passenger front, outside passenger front

It's done on a diagonal due to the way the brake lines are connected, which is in a diagonal from right rear to left front and then from left rear to right front.

I've actually done it just about every way there is and haven't noticed any difference, but follow the service manual now.

FYI you can access the service manuals for as little as $15 here www.repairprocedures.com
Man, im this 99į heat, and 200% humidity; I am going to have Aamco do it for $169 plus parts. Most fluids are included. Done deal. I am sold that I think the fluid will help big time.
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Old 01-25-2023, 03:55 PM   #21
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Cool

Bump for sticky status
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Old Today, 09:17 AM   #22
Christian1LE
 
Drives: 2004 BMW 330CI, 2022 1SS 1LE
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I only ever bleed my brakes with 1 bottle of SRF castrol and I don't bother with the clutch pedal. No issues here so far and I basically only track my car. It barely sees street miles.
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