Help - What all is needed for RS to SS brake upgrade

NowaChevyGuy · 07-17-2017, 01:40 AM

Hi all,

I have a 2016 RS and just picked up SS front and rear calipers, rotors and PhateK steel lines for $500 off of Craigslist (Baller Deal). Doing a little thinking, won't I need brackets as well? The rotors are bigger? Also dust shields? Not a mechanic by any means so any help would be awesome.

Thanks

PolynesianPowerhouse · 07-17-2017, 06:43 AM

Calipers, rotors, pads, lines...

Rears fit, but ebrake is not compatible. So the ebrake will not function. Will need the ss rear cradle. HUGE post on that already if ya search this section.

Fronts are simply replace with all ss parts. Easy and simple to do.

Alpha1BC · 07-17-2017, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NowaChevyGuy

Hi all,

I have a 2016 RS and just picked up SS front and rear calipers, rotors and PhateK steel lines for $500 off of Craigslist (Baller Deal). Doing a little thinking, won't I need brackets as well? The rotors are bigger? Also dust shields? Not a mechanic by any means so any help would be awesome.

Thanks

Fronts I think all you need are calipers, rotors, and the soft lines. Dust shields should be the same

Rears, unfortunately, aren't compatible. The electric park brake functions differently between the SS and RS (The SS has one motor in the middle that pulls 2 cables, the non-SS has 2 motors mounted on each caliper). As of right now, I don't believe there is a way to convert between two systems.

Here's a thread from a friend of mine that tried to do the same thing: http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=480579

Side question, do you plan to track your car at all? If so, I'd suggest getting the front brake duct kit that comes with all of the SS Camaros. The sheet I had with my old car said it was PN 23385148, but looking around I only see that part number pop up on Ebay. I think it might actually be PN 84145204 now?? I'm not sure, might have to ask a dealer to get the exact PN haha.

NowaChevyGuy · 07-17-2017, 01:27 PM

Thanks for the quick info. Not going to track or race it but I drive fast as sh** so the extra stopping power will be great. Mostly I put 20" Giovanna Haleb's on it and need to fill up the gaping wound between rim and RS rotor.

The parking brake incompatibility is pretty lame, and I feel like a dumbass for not researching before buying all 4 corners but so is the life of a car guy I guess. Between that and the piece of charcoal on the air box I get the feeling the boys at Chevy knew how resourceful us RS owners can be and threw the gauntlet down. Either that or they just hate V6 owners and said screw it lol.

Alpha1BC · 07-17-2017, 06:04 PM

I'd say with no track, you'll be just fine without the duct kit. The duct kit gets rid of the dust shield on the back side of the rotor, has you take off the air dams in front of the tires, and puts a big plastic shield on the front lower suspension link that helps push air moving under the car towards the rotors.

Manual specifically states to only put them on for track use and to remove them when you go back to the street. You can leave them on all the time if you want, but unless you're doing lots of back to back to back 50+ to 0 stops as fast as you can like you would on a track and getting near brake fluid boiling temps, you really won't need the cooling benefit.

It's also a little higher chance of damaging the brakes since you no longer have a dust shield and are kind of pointing road debris at your exposed rotors and pads. This failure mode probably isn't common, it's more likely to happen with the duct kit installed instead of the factory shields. Also, they're more brittle than the air dams and are more likely to break if something hits them due to how low to the ground they sit.

Not to say you can't do it that way if you'd like, just my ¢2

PolynesianPowerhouse · 07-18-2017, 08:42 PM

You may wanna upgrade pads as well... the stocks are good. But most people dont realize a pad change and fluid can make a world of difference.

In a reference, shooting a .357 can be deadly. But changing the type and style of bullet can make ot even more deadly.

Pad composition is what the majority of people miss out on when upgrading brakes.

Wierd Harold · 07-18-2017, 08:50 PM

Ordered my 2ltrs with the brembo front brake option .awesome stopping power ,filthy brake dust is unbelievable

PolynesianPowerhouse · 07-21-2017, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wierd Harold

Ordered my 2ltrs with the brembo front brake option .awesome stopping power ,filthy brake dust is unbelievable

With performance comes a price.

07-17-2017, 01:40 AM	#1
NowaChevyGuy Drives: 2016 Camaro LT1 RS Black on Black Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: San Bernardino, CA Posts: 269	Help - What all is needed for RS to SS brake upgrade Hi all, I have a 2016 RS and just picked up SS front and rear calipers, rotors and PhateK steel lines for $500 off of Craigslist (Baller Deal). Doing a little thinking, won't I need brackets as well? The rotors are bigger? Also dust shields? Not a mechanic by any means so any help would be awesome. Thanks __________________ . NowAChevyGuy 2016 RS - Trifecta Tuned, 3.23 diff swap, Borla S Type, JMS Throttle Controller, Lambo doors, Monster stereo, GM LED rear tail lights, BMR swaybars/End Links/Trailing Arms, tinted dark and murdered out.[/br] Car kicks ass! $20k.. and I get 20mpg with my foot in it, everywhere I go!.... Say somethin about V6's now...

07-17-2017, 06:43 AM	#2
PolynesianPowerhouse Big Samoan ina little car Drives: 2016 camaro Join Date: May 2014 Location: Tofiga Island Posts: 1,872	Calipers, rotors, pads, lines... Rears fit, but ebrake is not compatible. So the ebrake will not function. Will need the ss rear cradle. HUGE post on that already if ya search this section. Fronts are simply replace with all ss parts. Easy and simple to do. __________________ Don't sit around and watch everyone else live YOUR dreams...DO SUMPT'N When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt "Winning Tip: Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. GO TEST IT!" - Dennis Grant

07-17-2017, 01:27 PM	#4
NowaChevyGuy Drives: 2016 Camaro LT1 RS Black on Black Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: San Bernardino, CA Posts: 269	Thanks for the quick info. Not going to track or race it but I drive fast as sh so the extra stopping power will be great. Mostly I put 20" Giovanna Haleb's on it and need to fill up the gaping wound between rim and RS rotor. The parking brake incompatibility is pretty lame, and I feel like a dumbass for not researching before buying all 4 corners but so is the life of a car guy I guess. Between that and the piece of charcoal on the air box I get the feeling the boys at Chevy knew how resourceful us RS owners can be and threw the gauntlet down. Either that or they just hate V6 owners and said screw it lol. __________________ . NowAChevyGuy** 2016 RS - Trifecta Tuned, 3.23 diff swap, Borla S Type, JMS Throttle Controller, Lambo doors, Monster stereo, GM LED rear tail lights, BMR swaybars/End Links/Trailing Arms, tinted dark and murdered out.[/br] Car kicks ass! $20k.. and I get 20mpg with my foot in it, everywhere I go!.... Say somethin about V6's now...

07-17-2017, 06:04 PM	#5
Alpha1BC Drives: 2017 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 1,001	I'd say with no track, you'll be just fine without the duct kit. The duct kit gets rid of the dust shield on the back side of the rotor, has you take off the air dams in front of the tires, and puts a big plastic shield on the front lower suspension link that helps push air moving under the car towards the rotors. Manual specifically states to only put them on for track use and to remove them when you go back to the street. You can leave them on all the time if you want, but unless you're doing lots of back to back to back 50+ to 0 stops as fast as you can like you would on a track and getting near brake fluid boiling temps, you really won't need the cooling benefit. It's also a little higher chance of damaging the brakes since you no longer have a dust shield and are kind of pointing road debris at your exposed rotors and pads. This failure mode probably isn't common, it's more likely to happen with the duct kit installed instead of the factory shields. Also, they're more brittle than the air dams and are more likely to break if something hits them due to how low to the ground they sit. Not to say you can't do it that way if you'd like, just my ¢2 __________________ 2017 SS 1LE.

07-18-2017, 08:42 PM	#6
PolynesianPowerhouse Big Samoan ina little car Drives: 2016 camaro Join Date: May 2014 Location: Tofiga Island Posts: 1,872	You may wanna upgrade pads as well... the stocks are good. But most people dont realize a pad change and fluid can make a world of difference. In a reference, shooting a .357 can be deadly. But changing the type and style of bullet can make ot even more deadly. Pad composition is what the majority of people miss out on when upgrading brakes. __________________ Don't sit around and watch everyone else live YOUR dreams...DO SUMPT'N When I see posts asking "whats the best intake, exhaust, etc" .... the answer to that is like a grandfather telling his grandkids "if you put salt on a birds tail, it'll let you catch it" #ThinkAboutIt "Winning Tip: Don't take my (or anyone else's) word for it. GO TEST IT!" - Dennis Grant

07-18-2017, 08:50 PM	#7
Wierd Harold Drives: 2017 2lt rs Join Date: May 2017 Location: Ontario canada Posts: 332	Ordered my 2ltrs with the brembo front brake option .awesome stopping power ,filthy brake dust is unbelievable

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