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Old 01-03-2019, 10:29 PM   #71
Whocares05050
 
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From the other thread, lets review some of the pics. Here is what a clean valve looks like:



Now, here is a picture of an LT1 valve with only 20k miles on it:



And another:



Here is what carbon buildup looks like after many miles of no catch can and no cleanings:



Obviously, there IS issues withe the LT1 just like every other DI motor. You can CLEARLY see the 20k mile engine having some buildup already.

We don't have some specially engineered masterpice. It is a motor, it functions just fine without a catch can, and will function just fine with a catch can. The catch can WILL prevent a lot of that buildup and not running one WILL result in buildup. PERIOD. You don't HAVE TO use a catch can but you should stop the fear mongering with false info telling others they should NOT use one... give is a rest already...

On a side note, here is what my n54 bmw looked like at just 36k miles before i walnut blasted them. Yes, i am aware the car was twin turbo and tech has come a long way, but if you dont think the LT1 wont have issues I have some bad news for ya...:

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Old 01-04-2019, 08:30 AM   #72
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Well said Whocares05050!
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:28 AM   #73
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I have changed my oil twice based on the algorithm, both times about 6000 miles on the oil. Both times the dipstick showed full.
So, if I were pulling 3 oz through my intake every 500 miles, I should be about a quart down by 5000 miles. Why is my oil staying put?
I'm not topping it off.
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:51 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlz View Post
I have changed my oil twice based on the algorithm, both times about 6000 miles on the oil. Both times the dipstick showed full.
So, if I were pulling 3 oz through my intake every 500 miles, I should be about a quart down by 5000 miles. Why is my oil staying put?
I'm not topping it off.
Becuase this car takes 10 quarts of oil. I dont believe you will see the dipstick show a lower value until you are just over a quart low. Theres also oil in the filter and the cooler lines. So theres probably 10.5 quarts more than likely. Also, 3 oz is an estimate. Its based on how you drive as well. More aggressive driving will be more oil. When i jumped on the highway for 400 miles over xmas i had maybe half an oz.
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Old 01-04-2019, 10:57 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Whocares05050 View Post
Because this car takes 10 quarts of oil. I dont believe you will see the dipstick show a lower value until you are just over a quart low. Theres also oil in the filter and the cooler lines. So theres probably 10.5 quarts more than likely. Also, 3 oz is an estimate. Its based on how you drive as well. More aggressive driving will be more oil. When i jumped on the highway for 400 miles over xmas i had maybe half an oz.
I buy part of that. But after an oil change (I do my own, M1 5W-30 and WIX filter) I check my oil after running the car for a bit, so the filter is full. Then I fill to the top line and always recheck when car is level. So I have a pretty religious routine. And, of course, it gets easier to see the exact level as the oil absorbs crud. There is no question I don't ever jump on this car until it is warmed up.

I only ask because I have been reading catch can threads since 2016, before I bought the car. I thought, "Hmm. Better get one of those." But then I thought maybe I'll just monitor the oil level and see what happens.
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:22 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlz View Post
I buy part of that. But after an oil change (I do my own, M1 5W-30 and WIX filter) I check my oil after running the car for a bit, so the filter is full. Then I fill to the top line and always recheck when car is level. So I have a pretty religious routine. And, of course, it gets easier to see the exact level as the oil absorbs crud. There is no question I don't ever jump on this car until it is warmed up.

I only ask because I have been reading catch can threads since 2016, before I bought the car. I thought, "Hmm. Better get one of those." But then I thought maybe I'll just monitor the oil level and see what happens.
3oz of oil in a catch can after only 500 miles is a fair bit, every motor will have slightly different amounts of blowby and every CC will also "catch" a different amount. On my Corvette GS (LS3) I'd only get about 2-3oz of oil in the CC every 1500-2000 miles.
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Old 01-04-2019, 11:30 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94boosted View Post
3oz of oil in a catch can after only 500 miles is a fair bit, every motor will have slightly different amounts of blowby and every CC will also "catch" a different amount. On my Corvette GS (LS3) I'd only get about 2-3oz of oil in the CC every 1500-2000 miles.
Its for sure different for everyone and also how you drive. I will take an exact measurement in 500 miles and report back.
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Old 01-04-2019, 12:53 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whocares05050 View Post
Its for sure different for everyone and also how you drive. I will take an exact measurement in 500 miles and report back.
I couldn't agree more. Your own personal driving matters. I have no track days (yet), two trips to the dyno (6 pulls) and 1,100 miles on the car. Here is a video of where I ended up with the mishimoto catch can oil (I ramble quite a bit in the video), but fast forward to 2:37 in the video to see what came out.

I am planning to track here this coming spring/summer.

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Old 01-06-2019, 05:54 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Elite Engineering View Post
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=2][COLOR=black]

As for LSPI, if you use one of the major brands of full synthetic, unlike just a year ago where only Amsoil had the new additive that now M1 and most big name brand full synthetics that renders the mixture of oil mist and fuel less explosive so the incidence of broken pistons has greatly been reduced, but is still an issue.


]
Humm LSPI is only issues with turbo motor, no? Ive spoke to couple different oil companies sales rep, they both told me its not an issue with N/A.
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Old 01-09-2019, 08:32 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by DaveC113 View Post
I guess the word of the GM engineers who designed the motor isn't enough, lol.

How about, I want an engineer who agrees with me to support my opinion? Sounds closer to what's actually intended.

Meanwhile, the thread about providing real proof that a CC is needed is doing exactly the opposite. It's proving that in the real world a CC is not necessary for the LT1. People actually post evidence and pics in that thread, yet people see that and than post their garbage opinions here anyways, despite GM engineers and all evidence pointing to NOT needing the CC.

So for all you folks thinking you NEED a catch can, how about posting some EVIDENCE that top end cleaning is required for LT1s? That the oil mist is causing actual problems with LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) or intake valve deposit build up?

Then many of you same folks who think you need CCs refuse to use the new 0W-40 ESP oil which has lower volatility and is made with a completely different base stock vs the euro 0w40, and will further reduce oil mist in the intake? This is just too much...

I figure I just add meth injection to clean the intake on my LT4.
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:27 AM   #81
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Wanted to jump in here to clarify a few things,


First is what a good effective can traps is only a small amount of oil. The make up when spun in a centrifuge and then analysed you find 70% is water and acids (they do not separate once mixed), 23% is raw fuel (GDI engines experience many times the raw fuel washdown compared to the old port injection engines due to the intense pressures it is introduced at) , and only 7% is oil saturated with abrasive particulate matter.





So you never want to reintroduce this to your crankcase and this is why you do not see a similar amount of oil missing on your dipstick.


As for LSPI (Low Speed Pre Ignition) it is more common in forced induction engines than NA, but here is an example of a NA LFX piston:





But most top brands have now changed the formulation of the oil to be less explosive and this is less common all around. But ANY blend oil that is not full synthetic will still contribute to this. The fuel being introduced at 2,000-3,000 PSI is one of the reasons this occurs in both NA and FI engines, and the 2.0T GM engine when first introduced was very prone to this. GM instead of improving the crankcase evacuation system design just revised the pistons to be thicker wear they most commonly failed, at the top ring land.


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Old 01-14-2019, 01:08 PM   #82
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So I talked to my tuner about putting a catch can on and he showed me a piston from a corvette that was damaged from a check valve that failed and the check sucked into the engine. I’m trying to talk myself into a can but if this is a possibility I don’t want one. Has anyone experienced this before.
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Old 05-06-2019, 05:25 PM   #83
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I have been around internal combustion engines for over 50 years. I remember working on engines that had no means for crankcase evacuation, just a vent. Then the OEMs went to a road draft tube, then the PCV system.


I can tell you from experience the blow-by gasses mixed with the oil mist in the crankcase combined with condensation contributes to sludge build up.



Modern oils help prevent this but still getting it out of the crankcase is a good thing.


I can see by re-introducing it into the intake air flow it could cause build up on the intake valve with out the cleaning properties of the fuel washing over the valve.


I can see the value of the catch can, but can also see problems if it get full and is not emptied regularly.


It really boils down to educate yourself and make an informed decision.
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Old 05-09-2019, 12:04 PM   #84
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I find it interesting that nobody has posted pix of valves WITH catch cans Besides, folks, this is Internet...this 3rd pic of coked valve is oh so VERRRY scary but exactly what motor did it come out from? With how many miles? What year? What country? Etc. Etc. Etc. The other 2 pix are inconclusive at best, not showing much detail and taken with different light exposure. Opening up a motor at 20k sounds like an "interesting" proposition to start with. But that's off topic.
You want real life feedback? Go speak to a Silverado fleet owner. Or your C7 buddy with 100,000 miles on it. Or visit your local race track. Or speak to your GM dealer mechanic assuming you know one.

LT1 has been around for a long time now given when C7 first came out. Want to check if coking is causing issues with LT1/LT4 - i highly recommend Corvette Forum

Additionally, there are millions of GM trucks with GDI motors, many of them piling up tons of miles, often in severe duty. I know a few folks that use GM trucks for work, hauling etc. Ive had 2 myself, including my current Tahoe with substantial mileage with zero issues. But i change oil/filter every 3100 miles in all my vehicles (at 50% indicator). Because all oils degrade with use. Best insurance to keep a healthy motor i know of.

I track my 1le often. I am yet to add ANY oil between changes. ANY decrease/increase of oil will be shown on a dip stick. The idea that it would take a minimim of 1 quart is completely off base.

And here is my own experience with a catch can: i had tracked my c5z for over 10yrs without one. I had to add oil but only sometimes. The motor ran strong and issue free. In a last year, we opened it up to take a peek (all was perfect) and got talked into installing a catch can. Well, it was sure catching tons! And i had to empty it weekly. But, so what? I can draw zero benefit conclusions here other than my wallet was lighter and now i had an extra task to perform. I know, not a GDI motor, yet catch cans have been around for a looong time...

Quality of oil and change intervals, quality of gasoline, operating temps, etc will all have a direct affect. Use common sense, apply best practices to your driving (and storing) habits and enjoy your car! But if CC makes you sleep better at night then do it. Just keep in mind a CC is not a "magic" solution to GDI motor designs by any means, as many other factors will play a big role here.
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