[Choda]

Tuner said I can drive it around with the camshaft sensor codes until I get it to him (possibly be able to get on the dyno in 2 weeks). I just want to put miles on it. I need to get the ebc started before the dyno, heat cycle everything, get the old fuel out... I changed and touched a lot of things over this build so I'm excited.

I put the car all back together and have to check the trans fluid before I put it back on the ground. Hopefully this weekend.

[Choda]

Dyno went well yesterday. It was hot and humid but the Car is back up to 15 psi and made 800 hp and 900 tq again. Solid baseline to start testing and playing with.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Choda

Dyno went well yesterday. It was hot and humid but the Car is back up to 15 psi and made 800 hp and 900 tq again. Solid baseline to start testing and playing with.

That torque is serious, my old Camaro made over 850 and about 800 lbs of torque so making 900 is gonna kick you in the pants at WOT. Nice build and you've taken your time and got it right. Just wade into it slowly and those numbers will go up from here.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

That torque is serious, my old Camaro made over 850 and about 800 lbs of torque so making 900 is gonna kick you in the pants at WOT. Nice build and you've taken your time and got it right. Just wade into it slowly and those numbers will go up from here.

I've always been more of a fan of torque than hp. The more I compare my build to others, the major difference is the tq. Most camaros making 800 wheel are making substantially less torque than me. I believe Tq breaks parts not HP. I might want to pull timing out until after peak torque rpm to keep things under control a little more. 900 hp 900 tq would be a killer setup. making 900 tq at the tire ( drag radials with 17psi) means this SBE LT4 is making over 1k+ tq at the crank.

woah just looking at my sig. Looks like it picked up ~40 rwtq from the last combo at 15psi. interesting

[GN_Drake]

Well done! Bet it's a beast

[parish8]

Hell yeah. It’s alive! Congrats.

I have my timing pretty low to keep tq down in the middle but with the upgraded parts I don’t know that it is needed. The thing is if your a drag racer you only pass through that mid tq once and it happens quick.

[Choda]

Originally Posted by parish8

Hell yeah. It’s alive! Congrats.

I have my timing pretty low to keep tq down in the middle but with the upgraded parts I don’t know that it is needed. The thing is if your a drag racer you only pass through that mid tq once and it happens quick.

Good point. The peak torque would only be used during the 60' which is where I need the most improvement. When we turn it up, I'll def talk to my tuner to keep the tq under control. The more I drive my car, the more Im starting to agree with you using the paddles for aux buttons. We can use the slap shifter to manually change gears. Well see.

[parish8]

Originally Posted by Choda

Good point. The peak torque would only be used during the 60' which is where I need the most improvement. When we turn it up, I'll def talk to my tuner to keep the tq under control. The more I drive my car, the more Im starting to agree with you using the paddles for aux buttons. We can use the slap shifter to manually change gears. Well see.

I do not take my hands off the wheel when racing. I think that puts me in a better position if the car does get lose.

I have upgraded my paddles slightly. Now under 5500rpm the left is line lock/3step and the right is 2 step. Above 5500rpm they turn into boost scramble 1 and 2. I might change it to a mph switchover but that would take an extra relay or two.

[Choda]

Stacking miles on the car all week. No issues. My AC still sucks and barely works. When I get it inspected, I'll have the system recharged. Hopefully that is the issue. Its been an issue from day one and I'm not sure if its the custom line or something else.

I have yet to floor it because I've always had passengers. I'll get out this week after work to do some pulls and logs.

My gravity oil drain is working perfectly.

[Choda]

Something is up with the meth. It wasn't activating when I was doing test pulls. The filters and nozzles look great. The test button works. Check valve works. Fresh M1. It almost seems to not be spraying when the cars in boost. Once I let out of the throttle, the ARFs dump into the 9s. I'm going to put my old pump back on and see if thats the problem. Figures it was working fine before and on the Dyno but has issue when I'm trying to go to the track LOL.

Thank goodness I have an in car wideband and was also logging when I was messing around. If I would have went a full 1/4 w out meth working properly, it probably would have hurt the motor.

I need to get my wideband integrated into my gfbIII. The ebc has a lean cut off built in. I just have to feed it my wideband output.

[Choda]

Wasnt the pump. Appears as though I am having sealing issues with the intake and heads. I noticed some misty oil residue around the intake runners. I also was thinking the problem over in my head and trouble shooting.

It was fine on the dyno.
I changed nothing.
All of a sudden lean when under load/boost.
The IAT DROPS just after I let out of the throttle.
Test button on the meth is working as expected.
Complete Meth system looks good.
Seems a little down on boost even if I wasn't holding it WOT through gears.
Oil residue around the intake runners.

hmmm. Under load/boost, its leaking at the gaskets causing the meth to not enter the combustion chamber, not make expected boost and be LEAN. Once I let off the gasket reseal and that's why the IAT DROPs hard. Only reason there is oil in the intake manifold is if the rocker bolts holes in the intake runners are allowing oil past. Which also has me thinking if I used RTV on the rocker bolts that go into the intake runners or not. I think I did but not 100% positive.

I ordered all new gaskets and will remove the rockers and bolts to RTV them. Should be a saturday of work to test my theory.

If you guys remember my back and forth with Katech about machining these LT4 heads to work with my LT1 manifold. They originally said there could be sealing issues but later confirmed it should be fine.

Would you guys put the new intake gaskets on dry like normal and torque the manifold down or a light coating of RTV on the gasket?

[parish8]

I don’t know about any of what you just said. It all seems kinda unlikely.

If the meth was coming out the intake gaskets wouldn’t it still report lower iats when flowing? Even if the intake gaskets were leaking I don’t think that would let all the meth out. How does a leaky rocker bolt get oil up into the intake port?

What does your crank case ventilation look like? One of my precision turbos develops a turbo seal leak every now and then and that puts oil into the intake track and out of the bov, it puts a fine mist everywhere.

Where is your meth nozzle? Does it have a check valve up near the nozzle?

I am 99% sure they have a cnc program for drilling the lt1 bolt holes in the lt4 heads. I don't think this is a new procedure and the bugs are likely worked out.

[Choda]

You’re right.

The iat is before the gaskets and would read the meth even if it all leaked out.
Yes the meth check valve / plunger is about 18” away from the nozzles. I couldn’t blow it open but did w a little pick.

Ventilation -
Valve covers = motion race works -10 breathers into an open vented catch can.
Valley cover = -6 connected to same catch can.

Bov and area around the bov are clean. The oil mist is all around the intake gaskets. Sitting on The top of the valve covers, harnesses, coils, fire wall area, hoses at the rear of the engine.

I’m not sure how oil would get into the intake any other way than possibly the rocker bolts. When i replace the gaskets, I’ll check my cold side piping for oil if it’s coming from the turbo. If it was, that doesn’t explain where the oil mist is coming from thats around the engine bay, esp the passenger side. Which is why I think gaskets.

I questioned the machining because of prior conversations w katech tech saying there could be sealing issues w lt1 intake.

[parish8]

With that set up and being dry around the bov the next most likely source of oil spray is the catch can filter. Mine definitely pushes a fair amount of vapor out of it at wot on the dyno.

It looks like your iat temp sensor is down stream of your meth nozzles. Yeah if the temp isn’t dropping and it used to see it drop then it must not be flowing.

When I had a meth kit I found it kind of inconsistent. The time it took(or rpms range covered) varied depending on gear or how long it has been since it was used last. It can be perfect on the dyno. But stuff happens fast in low gear and the meth takes a little time to get flowing.