[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by JonDaddy82

Safety wire? Commonly used in motorcycle road race applications.

Safety wire only works if the bolt has holes in it for the wire to go through.

A bolt tab washer will work if the bolts keep backing out.

They shouldn't but weird things happen. The anti seize helps the bolt go into the block and not damage the threads or the block since the block is aluminum, right?

[JonDaddy82]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

Safety wire only works if the bolt has holes in it for the wire to go through.

Indeed, that’s why we drill holes in the bolt heads

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by JonDaddy82

Safety wire? Commonly used in motorcycle road race applications.

Safety wire works great but very difficult to install in header bolts (requires drilling bolt heads, complex wiring, high cost for a pro to do right), these do the same thing and are very easy to install:

Stage 8 locking fasteners:

https://www.stage8.com/

Once installed correctly they cannot loosen, they're mechanically locked and easy to remove.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Safety wire works great but very difficult to install in header bolts (requires drilling bolt heads, complex wiring, high cost for a pro to do right), these do the same thing and are very easy to install:

Stage 8 locking fasteners:

https://www.stage8.com/

Once installed correctly they cannot loosen, they're mechanically locked and easy to remove.

Arent those for header to head bolts, not for collectors? Not sure what the locking tab would lock against on the collector flange.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

Safety wire works great but very difficult to install in header bolts (requires drilling bolt heads, complex wiring, high cost for a pro to do right), these do the same thing and are very easy to install:

Stage 8 locking fasteners:

https://www.stage8.com/

Once installed correctly they cannot loosen, they're mechanically locked and easy to remove.

Complex wiring? Please. Get the right size safety wire, a pair of pliers (or your hands) then 2 bolts together in a direction so that the wire is actually tighten the bolts and you're good to go.

I work with soldiers that safety wire aircraft components and they don't take any special class for safety wiring. Just read the procedure and if it's not right or tight enough, you take it off and do it again.

I'd use tab washers. Easy to use to but a 1 time use.

[overdriv]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

This is a ball flange connection with 2 bolts, there’s no gaskets.

Sorry, thought you were talking about the flange at the head.

Must be a lot of movement at the ball flange. Maybe a set of springs under the nuts like some of the oem said use.

[SFV1LE]

Originally Posted by FoundNemo

Arent those for header to head bolts, not for collectors? Not sure what the locking tab would lock against on the collector flange.

There is an exhaust pipe adjacent to the bolt holes on the flange right? The tab would be set on the right side against this, so it cant turn left. The make different length tabs for different applications to reach pipes that may be a little further away.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by SFV1LE

There is an exhaust pipe adjacent to the bolt holes on the flange right? The tab would be set on the right side against this, so it cant turn left. The make different length tabs for different applications to reach pipes that may be a little further away.

Got it. I will give that a shot

[FoundNemo]

Trying out some Nord Lock washers on the nut side collector flanges (i know.. cue jokes) and will see how that goes.

[harrington81]

Why not try Stage 8 locking fasteners.

[swisstyphoon]

Any lock washer will not work because of the heat. Same with the regular lock nuts. Try copper exhaust lock nuts!

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

Any lock washer will not work because of the heat. Same with the regular lock nuts. Try copper exhaust lock nuts!

They work fine. Mine have been on for months without any problems. I’m sure his issue is already fixed.