[MR-02]

Hello Soler performance,

Other devices similar to this seemed to be subject to interference from other wireless signals-maybe cellphones, causing them to malfunction. On the main connection box, they have a darkened infrared window on them, (like a tv remote)-perhaps as a wireless programing method from the factory. On these other devices, I also notice they did not have a stamp saying they were "FCC compliant"

My understanding is this means they must be able to "accept interference and also not cause interference" with other devices. I suspect they sometimes failed because they would receive interference from other wireless signals.....

Can you help me understand:
if yours is FCC compliant, and if I am correct in understanding why these other similar devices would sometimes fail?
Thank You

[Warrior102]

I've read a lot of threads on throttle controllers but thats a new one on me, maybe try out something like this.

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Originally Posted by MR-02

Hello Soler performance,

Other devices similar to this seemed to be subject to interference from other wireless signals-maybe cellphones, causing them to malfunction. On the main connection box, they have a darkened infrared window on them, (like a tv remote)-perhaps as a wireless programing method from the factory. On these other devices, I also notice they did not have a stamp saying they were "FCC compliant"

My understanding is this means they must be able to "accept interference and also not cause interference" with other devices. I suspect they sometimes failed because they would receive interference from other wireless signals.....

Can you help me understand:
if yours is FCC compliant, and if I am correct in understanding why these other similar devices would sometimes fail?
Thank You

Hello, MR-02. Ours do not emit nor receive or are affected by emitted RF. So, no concerns there. Thanks.

[STYLO LT1]

Originally Posted by Warrior102

I've read a lot of threads on throttle controllers but thats a new one on me, maybe try out something like this.

😂

[dmcmahan60]

Originally Posted by ssmofo

Just bought one will report back.

Following for and update after installation

[AlphaCamaro7]

This is the best company to work with hands down. if i ever need anything im coming straight to you guys. thank you.

[Artryan]

I too am anxiously awaiting some feedback before ordering. I already have the Soler TB, which I'm still up in the air about as the benefits of it seem to come and go. I'm still looking for a more consistent feel from the throttle, especially at tip in. Hopefully this controller will help with that.

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by Artryan

I too am anxiously awaiting some feedback before ordering. I already have the Soler TB, which I'm still up in the air about as the benefits of it seem to come and go. I'm still looking for a more consistent feel from the throttle, especially at tip in. Hopefully this controller will help with that.

"Tip in" is where the real difference comes into play with a TC. It seems to me that there is a little 'play' built in to pedal, I imagine for safety reasons so people don't ram the guy in front of them when they hit a pot hole, something like that.

Zero throttle is still zero and wot is still wot. It's all the points in between. In the 5th gen, the throttle was mapped where when the pedal was at 15% the TB was open to 8% and then from there it would get more linear. I imagine again for safety and mpg. A TC sends a higher voltage signal to the TB, essentially telling it the pedal is further than it actually is. In short, yes, it provides a more linear feel across the range of the pedal position.

I loved the TC on my 5th Gen. The only thing was that every once in a while, it would go into limp mode when the sensor read the TB and the pedal didn't match. At first it was very rare, but increased as the TC aged. It wasn't a big deal, just recalibrate, but after awhile it started to be a PIA. But it was a known issue from that manufacturer. This one may be different.

[Artryan]

Originally Posted by MrChrisLS3

"Tip in" is where the real difference comes into play with a TC. It seems to me that there is a little 'play' built in to pedal, I imagine for safety reasons so people don't ram the guy in front of them when they hit a pot hole, something like that.

Zero throttle is still zero and wot is still wot. It's all the points in between. In the 5th gen, the throttle was mapped where when the pedal was at 15% the TB was open to 8% and then from there it would get more linear. I imagine again for safety and mpg. A TC sends a higher voltage signal to the TB, essentially telling it the pedal is further than it actually is. In short, yes, it provides a more linear feel across the range of the pedal position.

I loved the TC on my 5th Gen. The only thing was that every once in a while, it would go into limp mode when the sensor read the TB and the pedal didn't match. At first it was very rare, but increased as the TC aged. It wasn't a big deal, just recalibrate, but after awhile it started to be a PIA. But it was a known issue from that manufacturer. This one may be different.

I hope it helps because tip in on a M6 ZL1 is terrible. It's slightly better with the Soler TB, but it still seems that I have to drive the car a few miles before the Soler shows the benefits. On just a cold start and take off, there's little to no difference between the stock TB and the Soler. Obviously I'm not looking for wild settings that make the car more difficult and possibly dangerous to drive in traffic. I just want the throttle to do what I'm telling it to do on takeoff. If the TC will solve that, it's worth the $75 easily. My question would then be would I have been better off to save the money and keep the stock TB and just add the TC?

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by Artryan

I hope it helps because tip in on a M6 ZL1 is terrible. It's slightly better with the Soler TB, but it still seems that I have to drive the car a few miles before the Soler shows the benefits. On just a cold start and take off, there's little to no difference between the stock TB and the Soler. Obviously I'm not looking for wild settings that make the car more difficult and possibly dangerous to drive in traffic. I just want the throttle to do what I'm telling it to do on takeoff. If the TC will solve that, it's worth the $75 easily. My question would then be would I have been better off to save the money and keep the stock TB and just add the TC?

Seems to me that the TB isn't really going to come into play until you get to the higher rev range where the engine needs more air. The TC simply controls the throttle blade and how far/how fast/how soon it opens.

[Mike@SolerPerformanceLLC]

Artryan, MrChris,

Imagine the TB with the blade fully closed and look a the gap between the blade and the body internal contour. Then do the same as the blade opens in small increments. What you will see is that with our modification, that gap (available flow area) is much greater than that of the OEM at any point after idle. This is true air/power gains at any throttle position regardless of pedal mapping (TC or no TC).

Not only you get more air/power but the way/shape and efficiency in which they are delivered are different too, regardless of pedal mapping (TC or no TC)

That is the difference. You'll see benefits from both, the TC benefit is simulated (still a great feel) and the TB benefit is real (also great). They do not overlap, they add to each other, and the combination is more than the sum of its parts.

If they were, both real and overlapping, then the TC would be the only answer, but that isn't the case. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks

[Blue_6.2]

On this, the sixth day of November, in the year of our Lord 2019, the United States Postal Service delivered unto me a package. Inside this package there was a box. It was a very handsome box.



Within this handsome box was a Soler Performance Throttle Body Controller. Behold, that part which I shall refer to as "The Head Unit":



Beneath the Head Unit, were the parts that I shall refer to as "The Innards", or "The Guts":



Now then, to install this marvelous bit of technology, it is IMPORTANT that you, dear reader, do certain things. Amongst these certain things, you must locate the ACCELERATOR PEDAL. Most of you know what the accelerator pedal looks like, but for the benefit of those of you who went to school at UNC (and you know who you are), the accelerator pedal is the big, long pedal on the right that is mounted to the floor (or, as you probably call it, the bottom). The grommet that holds the pedal to the floor must be removed at this point, or all is for naught:




You will find a 10 (ten) millimeter bolt cleverly hiding beneath the grommet. Using a 10 (ten) millimeter socket wrench, remove this bolt. Once the bolt breaks loose (and it is not tight), it will remove by fingers IF you can get your fingers in there.



With the 10 (ten) millimeter bolt removed, your left knee is probably killing you. Mine was. In any event, S-L-I-D-E the accelerator assembly towards the seat (the driver's seat, again for those of you who went to school at Chapel Hole) until the entire assembly comes free. DO NOT LIFT until the assembly is free, as the two plastic "feet" that interface with the floor do not appear to be exceptionally robust. At this point, slide the red locking latch to the rear of the accelerator connector and GENTLY wiggle until it is free (DO NOT FORCE THIS! BE PATIENT. IT WILL COME LOOSE):



For reference purposes, a shot of the male end of the accelerator assembly connector:



Also included for reference:



Now we make 2 (two) connections. Connect the Female end of the Throttle Body Controller connector to the accelerator assembly and close the red latch. Then connect the white data connector to the Throttle Body Controller Innards Box:



Included just for fun, because you are fixing to reattach the accelerator assembly to the floor:



Take the accelerator assembly and place it in its approximate proper location, then connect the male Throttle Body Controller connector to the female cable coming up through the floor carpet, lock it in place with the red connector lock. (Here is where I am going to redo my install tomorrow - I talked to Mike after I was hooked up to make a suggestion, he indicated there is an actual cavity underneath the accelerator mounting area that will handily hold the Innards Box. My knee needs a rest, so I will take this on tomorrow, but for right now let's pretend everything is just perfect, shall we?):



This illustrates how I secured the Innards Box before I was aware of the cavity beneath the accelerator assembly. Mike says once the Innards Box is "buried" under the accelerator, the install is SUPER CLEAN.



Okay, some thoughts: My knees are not happy with me, but I am old and my knees are pretty much for shit to begin with. Mike says to use knee pads. DO IT. I called Mike to suggest that he give the Innards Box about 3 more inches of cable so it could hide behind the carpeting (I didn't know if the cable length was a Corvette thing or not), this was when Mike told me about the cavity under the carpeted area beneath the accelerator assembly. He indicated he will likely include this information in the next re-write of the instructions.

The after-install programming of the Head Unit was very easy and took about a minute. Follow the directions.

Driving? Dunno. My knees were weeping so I buttoned up the top, gathered up my tools and such and came inside. I am gonna try to bury the innards box tomorrow, and then go for a ride. I will be starting at P1.1 (Performance curve 1) and go from there. More later, ladies.

[dmcmahan60]

Rub some dirt on your knee's and get back to driving it and telling us what you think! LOL Great write up and thanks for all of the details. Look forward to what else you have to say about this product.

[CamaroVille]

Great write-up by Blue_6.2. I really appreciate the time as well as the additional info that he provided.

I have the Soler MTB and I am ready to order TC, but first I would like to see some pics of the head unit mounting locations and how it looks in those spaces. I am contemplating mounting it out of site. It's probably not something that should be messed with while driving so an out of the way location would keep it safe and make it a clean install. However, there would have to be a semi-easy way of changing the settings even if a knee pad is involved.

Thoughts?