[GAOLDGUY]

I'm posting here because I think the SS 1LE folks are the most likely to be installing the rock guards. ZL1s need them as well but I think there are more SS 1LEs in number. Today I received rock guards, lift pads, mag pad, and mag puck. I have read a million posts on lifting the car and I am stressed but would like for someone to confirm what I summarize below.

1) Of the two slots in the front, install the lift pads in the ones toward the front of the car and lift with the jack from the one toward the center. Place the jack stand under the lift pad in the front slot. (One post even claimed to wrinkle the quarter panel if this is reversed which blows my mind.)

2) Only lift high enough to get the jack under the front. To lift the back, go to the bracket lift point near the differential.

3) When replacing wheels torque to 140 lb ft. (This is in the manual but is even higher than the SuperDuty I owned for a while. I will go 80, 110, then 140 in a star pattern.)

Any othe tips I'm missing. One post said to make sure there is othing on the concrete to keep the jack from rolling or in may bend the jacking rail. Good grief!

Thanks

[Pollock]

Originally Posted by GAOLDGUY

I'm posting here because I think the SS 1LE folks are the most likely to be installing the rock guards. ZL1s need them as well but I think there are more SS 1LEs in number. Today I received rock guards, lift pads, mag pad, and mag puck. I have read a million posts on lifting the car and I am stressed but would like for someone to confirm what I summarize below.

1) Of the two slots in the front, install the lift pads in the ones toward the front of the car and lift with the jack from the one toward the center. Place the jack stand under the lift pad in the front slot. (One post even claimed to wrinkle the quarter panel if this is reversed which blows my mind.)

2) Only lift high enough to get the jack under the front. To lift the back, go to the bracket lift point near the differential.

3) When replacing wheels torque to 140 lb ft. (This is in the manual but is even higher than the SuperDuty I owned for a while. I will go 80, 110, then 140 in a star pattern.)

Any othe tips I'm missing. One post said to make sure there is othing on the concrete to keep the jack from rolling or in may bend the jacking rail. Good grief!

Thanks

Just make sure you are centered on your lift pad and I jack some then stop and check to make sure the jack has not shifted off the pad then repeat. If the jack isnt rolling when you are lifting you may encounter an issue. Dont over think it. Its not that hard.

I jack from one side and place the car on 2 jack stands. Then go to the other side and repeat. No need to lift from the rear. Takes like 5 min to get it up on all 4 jack stands.


If you bend your jack then your jack isnt big enough for the car. lol.

[Alpha1BC]

Originally Posted by GAOLDGUY

I'm posting here because I think the SS 1LE folks are the most likely to be installing the rock guards. ZL1s need them as well but I think there are more SS 1LEs in number. Today I received rock guards, lift pads, mag pad, and mag puck. I have read a million posts on lifting the car and I am stressed but would like for someone to confirm what I summarize below.

1) Of the two slots in the front, install the lift pads in the ones toward the front of the car and lift with the jack from the one toward the center. Place the jack stand under the lift pad in the front slot. (One post even claimed to wrinkle the quarter panel if this is reversed which blows my mind.)

2) Only lift high enough to get the jack under the front. To lift the back, go to the bracket lift point near the differential.

3) When replacing wheels torque to 140 lb ft. (This is in the manual but is even higher than the SuperDuty I owned for a while. I will go 80, 110, then 140 in a star pattern.)

Any othe tips I'm missing. One post said to make sure there is othing on the concrete to keep the jack from rolling or in may bend the jacking rail. Good grief!

Thanks

1) You are correct about jacking from the one that is more centered. Not sure how you'd get a wrinkled fender if you have to temporarily lift from the front one if you're lifting it properly, though. Both of those points are plenty strong enough to hold the weight of the car.

2) As Pollock mentioned, you only need to lift from the sides. The more rearward of the front two points lifts the entire side of the car at once, then jackstands under the pinch weld points, then repeat on the other side.

3) Yes, 140 ft-lbs. I usually use an electric impact to get just enough contact to hold it (prolly in the 60-80 ft-lb range) while the car is in the air, then bring the car back on the ground and roll it to unload the suspension. After that, I go through and torque to ~100 ft-lb then re-torque to 140, all in star pattern.