[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by Lt1z350

I have arh on my tahoe and already shit after about 7 years. Cracked welds in between collectors where I can’t get to it to fix. Kooks from my 4th gen were worse trash in 3 years. So name isn’t anything. They all fail in due time. Buddy had shitty knock off obx on his 4th gen and still fine after 8 years and car sits out side.
If the welds are good and it’s stainless steel it doesn’t matter where it comes from. Almost all the companies source the metal from China to save money its the thickness that helps or hurts so pay attention to gauge. I did a custom set of turbo headers on my 3rd gen I sourced all my stainless stee bends and flanges straight from China to save money on the project. The car had been together 10 years now with zero issues in Florida salt air from the Chinese stainless steel and this is headers I have had so hot they looked clear from running lean when tuning it. I would cook a set of gaskets in a few races and not crack the steel. That about the most abuse you can give to a header is a turbo car. And I cheated out on thinner gauge as was just trying to get the car slapped together at the time. So don’t believe it’s a matter of where it comes from as doesn’t matter.
I just did a write up with picks over on the ss site due to had a thread going.
The stock stuff is 2 inch and down all over the car going into the cats it’s less then 2 inch. It’s a Joke of an exhaust for a 650 hp car. I took tons of pics from all my stock garbage as 2 inch going on the car now.
After weeks of reading and searching the z06 boards and g8 boards I did the maximizer which are same as obx but sanded finish. I found a g8 over there running the 1 7/8 on his car that ran in the 9s @142+ mph so think they can make power too no problem. A copy means they copied it all. They even have the same peak in the collector as my arh.
I paid 558 plus 120 shipping then got 75 eBay bucks back for a full system all the way under the rear diff. They say it’s a arh copy of the long system that’s 1900 bucks most places. They are just as nice if not cleaner welds then my tahoe arh set. Thicker flange at the head then both look or arh. In 2 inch I have read many posts on the kooks not fitting right and rubbing the steering shaft. Have yet to find anyone really happy with 2 inch kooks in reading. Arh seem to be best fit and that’s what obx/maximizer copied. I’ve been down the road of spending more as thought was getting the better product and yes most times your get what you pay for. In this instance you don’t. This set is one of the nicest I have bought from hooker super comps to arh. I’m highly impressed with it all. If the z06 and g8 guys say zero issues then why not on camaro. I am going to take the money I saved in exhaust and put it towards a new blower with port injection on it where it will pay off. So far no problems and been on then back off as welding v band clamps to collectors off the car then putting them back on. I’m also doing this in the garage on jack stands. Took about 1.5-2 hours to get my stock crap off pretty easy actually. Tig welding this all up so taking my time but should have it all on by Saturday night.

Eh, I'm not even going to read all of that. I stopped at 7 years old.

Every time a thread is started where cash is involved, it gets heated quickly. People like me say get the best, spend the $2000 on ARH or Kooks. And then there's others that even with plenty of funds find that stupid and are going to make SURE that they tell you how well their $500 headers performed. This is America, buy whatever you want. I gave an opinion, no reason to get offended.

[danhr]

Oh man... Obx got brought into the mix.... Hope that person has their flame suit on

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by danhr

Oh man... Obx got brought into the mix.... Hope that person has their flame suit on

I bought OBX and put them on my 5th Gen SS. 4 years and about 30K miles later I took them off, sold them, and installed them on the buyer's SS. He still has them on. I paid less for the LTs and full 3" catback than most people were paying for just a set of Kooks or ARH. And it lasted all that time. So I am a firm believer that you don't have to pay an arm and a leg for a set of headers. If OBX steals a design and starts making them for the 6th Gen ZL1 then I'll be buying another set or TSP.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

I bought OBX and put them on my 5th Gen SS. 4 years and about 30K miles later I took them off, sold them, and installed them on the buyer's SS. He still has them on. I paid less for the LTs and full 3" catback than most people were paying for just a set of Kooks or ARH. And it lasted all that time. So I am a firm believer that you don't have to pay an arm and a leg for a set of headers. If OBX steals a design and starts making them for the 6th Gen ZL1 then I'll be buying another set or TSP.

I have absolutely nothing against OBX headers. I have owned quite a few. It always seemed back asswards that some companies charge what they do for headers. OBX aside, you can get hookers stainless supercomps headers for a SBC for $300. What's the difference between that and a 6th gen header, that justifies tripling the price?

I have always been impressed with OBX headers. Tbh, their QA and welds have been better than the American big name companies, from my first hand experiences.

I wouldn't set your hopes high with the zl1 stuff though. Right now their SS headers are at the same price as Texas speed headers. If the zl1 headers are marketed the same.... No point really imo

[SJFGTO]

I installed Kooks stepped headers and mids on my GTO in 2005. The install was perfect, no fit issues, never a leak, with 2000 degree ceramic coating they look great. Hooked up to my Corsa exhaust perfectly. I just believe in Kooks quality, I think you get what you pay for and I would not go discount on a Camaro I spent a good money on.

[tnspd]

What set of Headers will fit on a 2018 ZL1 without removing the passenger motor mount? I heard there is a set out there but looking for confirmation.

[djfury05]

Originally Posted by tnspd

What set of Headers will fit on a 2018 ZL1 without removing the passenger motor mount? I heard there is a set out there but looking for confirmation.

ARH...

[tnspd]

Originally Posted by djfury05

ARH...

No, ARH you must remove the motor mount. I just put a set of 1 7/8 on my 2018 ZL1 1LE.

[djfury05]

Originally Posted by tnspd

No, ARH you must remove the motor mount. I just put a set of 1 7/8 on my 2018 ZL1 1LE.

Plenty of others have installed them without removing it.. you did something different.

[tnspd]

I have a lift so I know you have to remove the motor mount on the passenger side or drop the whole front end a little. The driver side is a breeze but plenty of guys say they also had to remove the motor mount. My local speed shop that does them all the time said they just lower the whole front end a little. I saw a post a few weeks ago and they listed a header that just slide in but I cannot find it now.

[BlaqWhole]

Originally Posted by danhr

I have absolutely nothing against OBX headers. I have owned quite a few. It always seemed back asswards that some companies charge what they do for headers. OBX aside, you can get hookers stainless supercomps headers for a SBC for $300. What's the difference between that and a 6th gen header, that justifies tripling the price?

I have always been impressed with OBX headers. Tbh, their QA and welds have been better than the American big name companies, from my first hand experiences.

I wouldn't set your hopes high with the zl1 stuff though. Right now their SS headers are at the same price as Texas speed headers. If the zl1 headers are marketed the same.... No point really imo

My reply sounded defensive, lol. I was just elaborating tho. I didn't take it as negative or anything. For the price and quality of the cheapo stuff I really can't justify spending twice as much on the top end stuff. No way.

[Yellow6thGen]

I love the Kooks set I have perfect fit, and I was able to go to the new R&D facility and watch the build process for parts of the install. Nothing but top notch perfectionism at Kooks. That’s my choice!

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by Lt1z350

Then why post my quote. To be a dick? This is typical of your responses so I’m not surprised. I post what I do so people that don’t have a clue get one. Yea not for everyone and people that are knowledgeable but some new to this can get a better idea off what others experienced. That can’t always be done it a few words. I had 9 second street cars in the 90s and built all my own stuff as I still do. I don’t pay someone to work on my cars as honestly no one does the work as good as I will do it myself. So try to share that with people new to this.
Same reason I posed on my bypass findings. My car on a tune no pulleys makes 12 lbs the same as what most spent 800 bucks on a lower to do. Probably give 1-2 psi back with long tubes on it. Hoping not but might end up with a lower anyway.

Because it's pointless to read a post that's trying to make a conclusion that ARH and Kooks headers are somehow not any better than most/any other brand out there. That's why I quoted it. You said "Name isn't everything" and brought up 2 accounts of Kooks/ARH headers failing in a 6-7 year time frame. If it's typical of my replies to bring out stuff like that, then so be it.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I have 8,000 miles on my TSP's not one problem so far.. I use the hell out of them! I don't care where they steel is from or which country they welded them up in.. If the company that sells them goes over seas and over looks the process I'm fine with that.. it's when you ask to have something made and they send you a quality sample then place a huge order and the sample is not up to par is when you get shafted.

I been dealing with the chinese for 15 years.. they make the best brushless rc motors in the world.. ARC motors are all chinese, himaxx are very good to, so is NUE motors and they have there hand in chinese supplying windings or bearings..

its dam metal a brushless motor is 100x more involved.. as long as they install easy, use thick gauge metal flanges and piping, and the hook up and sit flat along the exhaust ports im good!

I see this guys build right now make the same power as me for 6k vs what I did for 2k..


Just buy what you can live with spending..


Once mommy and daddy quit buying things for me and I was on my own the generics looked a lot better lol! but do some research ask around don't a idiot about it..

TSP for the win! thanks guys for such a good product and a price that paid for my tune by saving the money!