2014+ Camaro SS brake ducting install

[X25]

Why do you need it?
For anyone who intend to use their cars at the road-course track, brake ducting is a must. Even if your brakes did not fade at your local track (perhaps it has very long straights), it is a known fact that our cars are just too heavy for the 4-piston brake system to handle at the track, and you're most likely overheating the system even if not enough to fade. Cooler brakes also use pads at a slower rate: $$$!

Any potential issues with it?

• Severely under-capacity brakes with very high cooling capacity might cause thermal shock on the rotor, which migth cause premature cracks. I am not saying this is happening on Camaros, but this is a known issue with brake ducting or any other kinds of brake cooling that show up in some cars. Higher (heat) capacity brake systems usually keep the heat delta throughout the track within sane ranges, avoiding this problem. I don't think Camaros would have this issue, unless your track has 20 turns you take in 50 seconds, followed by a 3-minute-long straightway
• The main reason why manufacturers shun away from installing these is the potential maintenance and rubbing issues, especially during traffic and parking maneuvers. Moreover, even the best ducting work might endure rubbing every once in a while, so it becomes a maintenance/wear item. Fortunately, the hose is cheap and I actually never had to replace it myself in my other cars except in one case where my layout was constantly rubbing the tire ever so slightly.

Note: Updated instructions to reflect the routing which does not rub at all and does not interfere with suspension parts.

Tools to use:

• T15 torx to remove the fender liner bolts
• T30 torx to remove the stupid rotor retainer bolt if you still have it
• 7mm socket (or wrench, etc.) to remove 3 bolts at the bottom of the fender liner
• 11mm socket (or wrench, etc.) to tighten ducting kit's bolts
• 12mm socket (or wrench, etc.) to remove the OEM dust cover
• 18mm socket to remove the caliper bolts. A breaker-bar is recommended.
• Hook-pick to remove plastic retainers of the fender liner
• A drill to open up holes on the NACA ducting for mounting
• Zip-ties
• Quantum - Competition Brake Cooling Kit + NACA ducts

For those who have '14+ Camaros, brake ducting location is very easy and straightforward. There are already provisions for ducting, put in there for Z/28 and ZL1 applications.

STEPS:

1. Remove the plastic retainers and bolts holding the front half of the fender liner.
2. Hold your NACA duct by the location where 3 holes are provided (by GM) to mount the ducting. Determine where to drill holes on the NACA duct.
3. Drill pilot holes using a 1/4" or similar sized drill. The drill should create the hole in a second since NACA ducting is simple plastic. If you want to use real bolts (which I don't really see any reason for), then choose your drill bit accordingly.
4. Put the hose on the NACA duct and use a clamp to keep it. Don't over-tighten the clamp, since the plastic can collapse under pressure.
5. Mount the NACA ducting using the holes you've just opened up. I highly recommend using zip ties, since they are more than strong enough, and they make the installation very easy since the holes do not even need to align 100%.
6. Cut the thin side-wall of the air ducting opening on the fender liner, which is right by the engine side. This will allow the 3" ducting provided by the kit to fit in there. Do not cut the bolt holes on the location, so you can use them for guide zip-ties later on.
7. Remove the caliper, removing two caliper bolts on the hub
8. Remove the rotor, and then the dust cover. The cover will be replaced by a shiny aluminum cover that comes with the kit, which also protects the control arm spindle from heat.
9. Install the kit's plate. It only goes in one way, so you cannot do it wrong.
10. Use two OEM screws for the bottom (freed from dust cover), and you'll need to use the bolts that come with the kit for the top hole.
11. Routing (Updated): The best way to route is by not getting close to any suspension arm. If you use any control arm as a guide (using zip ties), it will eventually deform the hose, not to mention issues with rubbing at full lock, especially when using smaller diameter and/or wider wheels. Route the hose following the subframe, and turn it towards the wheel right before the cv boot. There's a removable small splash guard that you'll need to remove in order for this to work. I opened up a hole on this splash guard and reinstalled once I was done with the hose. I only needed to use one so tie; used it to tie the hose to the strut.
12. IMPORTANT: Make sure you steer the hub MAX outwards and MAX inwards (max left and right steering) to make sure the ducting has enough clearance and enough length. I usually cut the hose a little bit more than just enough at its longest needed position. Remember, if you leave it too long, it will sag. It. Will. Sag. You will also need to take measurements when the suspension is compressed and with all sizes of the wheels/tires you intend to use the car.
13. Put a few guiding zip ties by the OEM ducting outlet, etc. Put a clamp on the hub side of the kit as well, and re-install your rotor and caliper.
14. I see that caliper bolts are listed as ~33lbs + 90 degrees. Instead, I've done about 100-120 lbs torque (and no extra turn). If you're a torque-to-yield bolt fan, feel free to replace every bolt.
15. Finally, I've cut the rib right in front of the ducting that protrudes the air flow. Is it important? Don't know, but I'm sure it helps even if little.
16. Repeat for the other side, and you're done!

This is the passenger side of the car. The area behind the grille which is currently covered with a plastic shroud is the location for the brake ducting.


Driver's side after the shroud was cut. Please note the three bolt provisions for mounting.


Driver side, after the shroud was cut.


Preparing the ducting before mounting...


NACA ducting in its place (test fitting)


The rib cut for better air flow, and ducting mounted.


How it looks from inside the bumper


UPDATED Brake ducting layout:


Finished:

[NotYetLegend]

Are you sure there is enough slack to allow steering lock? One consequence of not wrapping around the strut is all of the length change you get going from lock to lock. I did the around the strut and back to the duct method and still had the sway bar end link bolt (the threads sticking out on the inside of the sway bar) eat a whole in the duct... If your routing is working it would be a great solution, less duct, less restriction, less sway bar end link interaction.

[X25]

Originally Posted by NotYetLegend

Are you sure there is enough slack to allow steering lock? One consequence of not wrapping around the strut is all of the length change you get going from lock to lock. I did the around the strut and back to the duct method and still had the sway bar end link bolt (the threads sticking out on the inside of the sway bar) eat a whole in the duct... If your routing is working it would be a great solution, less duct, less restriction, less sway bar end link interaction.

I tried a few times to turn the wheel all the way left and right, and it does have enough slack for full lock, no problem. As you also mentioned, if this route works, it is more straightforward, so it should allow more air flow. There is no part that moves or compresses away from the hub when you use the radius rod as the guide, which is why I selected it. I will test it out driving around my home as soon as I finish the other work, hopefully tonight or tomorrow. The second major test will be on Saturday at the Oregon Raceway Park - if I can finish everything on time. The season will soon conclude in Pacific Northwest, so I need to hurry

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by X25

I tried a few times to turn the wheel all the way left and right, and it does have enough slack for full lock, no problem. As you also mentioned, if this route works, it is more straightforward, so it should allow more air flow. There is no part that moves or compresses away from the hub when you use the radius rod as the guide, which is why I selected it. I will test it out driving around my home as soon as I finish the other work, hopefully tonight or tomorrow. The second major test will be on Saturday at the Oregon Raceway Park - if I can finish everything on time. The season will soon conclude in Pacific Northwest, so I need to hurry

Awesome! Please let us know. I have to resurface my rotors for new pads anyways so while I'm in there maybe I'll re-route. Thanks.

[X25]

I finally finished the rest of my work (tranny oil change, race pads, new rotors, etc.), and revised the route a little bit as a result of more fitment testing with the tire and car lowered. During my test drive that followed, it never rubbed the hoses, but when you do full lock during a parking maneuver, it does touch a tiny bit. I will do the ultimate test over the weekend during my 500-mile-trip to the track and the track day itself. If it survives, I am sure it will last a long time : P

[KaBoom1701]

[X25]

Finally found a perfect layout and updated the instructions! Basically, this layout will not rub no matter what size your wheels of how low your ride is, since it is never getting close to any moving suspension part. I thoroughly tested it this weekend at the race track, and it still looks like new : )

[Bad@ssCamaro]

Any idea of the length of hose we'll need for each side?

[X25]

I am not sure if I remember correctly, but I think I bought a 10-feet-long hose, split it in half, and it was comfortably enough, but I did not have any unused left! This is for the updated route.

[Bad@ssCamaro]

Though I hate the idea of cutting any part of that lower grill, looking at what you've done, it would dictate to cut that part in front of the duct inlet so as to not divert air over and around the inlet. It would seem that you would get direct air to go into the inlet that way. Great job.

[X25]

Originally Posted by Bad@ssCamaro

Though I hate the idea of cutting any part of that lower grill, looking at what you've done, it would dictate to cut that part in front of the duct inlet so as to not divert air over and around the inlet. It would seem that you would get direct air to go into the inlet that way. Great job.

My thinking was that if I screw it up, it should be cheap to replace

[Firefighter]

Well damn, this got figured out. I might do these one of these days...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[JDP Sales]

Excellent write up!

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

[Bad@ssCamaro]

Almost done I set my inlet ducts a little different than you have as I include the Apex Scoop for the CAI. My only concern is that the hose is close to the area that I circled in the photo below. I fear that this will cause rubbing and wear in that area. I'm thinking of deforming that area to give it an angle for the hose to bypass to ride up that column if need be. Any opinions would be appreciated I did put a zip tie on the rod running parallel with the strut, but it's still very close when I put the tires on and let it sit at normal stance. I didn't take any pictures at that point because it was getting late. I'll take some more pics when I get another chance.