Car won't start........

[05SilverStreak]

Damn kid of mine thought he was doing me a favor by cleaning the engine compartment after he washed the car. I have cleared all the codes except the P1682 code which is the famous, "can't communicate with all ecm's". Now before I do the inevitable and fork out for a new one; has anyone ever had this happen and what was your diagnostic path. I do have an OBD2 scanner and voltmeter. here is what I have checked so far:

1) I removed the two ECM plugs on the one under the fuse box and dried them out w/contact cleaner.
2) I have taken every connector plug near same ECM apart and cleaned them (even if not needed or wet).
3) Checked ALL relays and fuses in the fuse block under the hood, (by removing and switching with one of similar value to check for continuity.
4) Recharged battery to full (it was down to like 8 volts after it sat over night for some reason.

Now I found out about this by hearing the car miss after it was started in the drive way. By the time I had got out there he had turned the car off and restarted it again. Let it sit over night and now won't even crank. Sarcasm and "Pull your head out" comments are welcome as long as there is a viable suggestion attached to them. 1682 code still present and wont clear.

*Edit* The 1682 code is gone now after cleaning the ABS ECM, (go figure), so CEL is gone. Still no start.

[InFiD3ViL]

Is it possible the battery is toasted now?

We all know these cars act like they are skitzo if the battery gets too weak and won't hold a proper charge. Codes popping up left and right is a common thing when that happens.

[Welker2]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Is it possible the battery is toasted now?

We all know these cars act like they are skitzo if the battery gets too weak and won't hold a proper charge. Codes popping up left and right is a common thing when that happens.

Agree, could just be a weak/bad battery; I would take it to your nearest auto parts store and have it load tested before I did anything else. Good luck.

[ron123]

You did not mention how old the battery is? Good advice from others to have it tested. After a full charge and letting it sit for a couple hours after disconnecting charger, let the surface charge dissipate, it should read about 12.6 volts, that is a good easy first test. If it is the battery he may have done you a favor by having it die while it was home in the driveway. Was he listening to the radio and had ignition fan on etc while he was doing all that work on the car ... maybe that was the last straw for the battery? When is the last time the battery terminals in the trunk were checked/cleaned?

[05SilverStreak]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

Is it possible the battery is toasted now?

We all know these cars act like they are skitzo if the battery gets too weak and won't hold a proper charge. Codes popping up left and right is a common thing when that happens.

Good response. My voltmeter says its holding at 12.12, during cranking I don't know, I was by myself. I will try that tomorrow. I read that these cars have hot and cold starting issues as they age, so a 2nd ground from engine to chassis is a good thing, as well as a 2nd wire from the battery to the starter, (0 guage). What do you think?

[05SilverStreak]

Originally Posted by ron123

You did not mention how old the battery is? Good advice from others to have it tested. After a full charge and letting it sit for a couple hours after disconnecting charger, let the surface charge dissipate, it should read about 12.6 volts, that is a good easy first test. If it is the battery he may have done you a favor by having it die while it was home in the driveway. Was he listening to the radio and had ignition fan on etc while he was doing all that work on the car ... maybe that was the last straw for the battery? When is the last time the battery terminals in the trunk were checked/cleaned?

I will have to check, but I have had the car since 9k on it and I believ the battery was/is fairly new but I'll have to check. It's an Interstate battery which is an upgrade over stock but for the life of me I can't remember when I put it in. Are you sayinf the battery was toasted by what he did? Or by its age and it happening now is a coincidence? It would be easy to believe that this event toasted the starter solenoid, (which I will zero in on tomorrow), but I'll have to test the battery under a load to see where that stands.

[Olddudesrule]

If the battery is at 12.2 volts after a charge, this is too low. Now I would expect it to at least attempt to start the engine, but I would have the battery load tested nonetheless. We've all seen stranger things. Sounds like you did an excellent job of drying and checking all ECM and fuse connections, so given time, I would expect it to start.

[silversleeper]

Can you please explain what won't start means?
cranks slow, doesnt crank at all, cranks fast but no cylinders firing, stutters and dies...

before you get too mad and buy a ecm it might be temp codes that go away as stuff dries or is blown out by compressed air or air in a can and as you dry stuff and have a good battery charged all will be ok.

pressure washer?
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...ryer/60131_0_0
I'd get some wirer dryer and try to gently take apart all connections I could easily get to and spray them, if couldn't take them off easily just spray them best I could. It's cheaper than an ecm or a dealer starting to troubleshoot the wiring harness for $$$

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by 05SilverStreak

Good response. My voltmeter says its holding at 12.12, during cranking I don't know, I was by myself. I will try that tomorrow. I read that these cars have hot and cold starting issues as they age, so a 2nd ground from engine to chassis is a good thing, as well as a 2nd wire from the battery to the starter, (0 guage). What do you think?

12.12v indicates a weak battery. Regarding adding a 2nd engine chassis ground or an under hood positive battery post to starter bypass cable, they have nothing to do with slow starting due to car/battery age ... they're needed to overcome slow starting due to starter “heat soak” which is primarily caused by the heat affect that LT hdrs have on the starter based on the hdr proximity to the starter.