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Old 12-05-2015, 04:28 AM   #1
OHIOSS
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Any truth to the break in rumor?

I've heard from a few people that told me the harder you drove your car during the break in period the more HP you will have after it's broke in. Is there any truth to this, or is it simply a rumor?
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Old 12-05-2015, 05:44 AM   #2
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All I can say is my father and brother ordered two identical cars at the same time and they came with consecutive build numbers so one followed the other on the assembly line. My brother drove it like he stole it while my dad followed break in recommendations. Both had 383ci engines and my brother could always walk all over my dads and he had made zero mods. Two years later when I was in college same thing happened again this time with 340's one driven hard from day one and they were like night and day when they ran against each other. No Dyno's for hp proof but it was theroyised that it had to do with how the engine parts took an initial 'set' to each other.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:16 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMT View Post
All I can say is my father and brother ordered two identical cars at the same time and they came with consecutive build numbers so one followed the other on the assembly line. My brother drove it like he stole it while my dad followed break in recommendations. Both had 383ci engines and my brother could always walk all over my dads and he had made zero mods. Two years later when I was in college same thing happened again this time with 340's one driven hard from day one and they were like night and day when they ran against each other. No Dyno's for hp proof but it was theroyised that it had to do with how the engine parts took an initial 'set' to each other.

And this is where the trouble starts.

Two sets of "tests" done without controls, which are perceived as producing a certain effect.

Seating rings is one thing, but anecdotes such as these do not ever take into account that each engine is different from another anyway regardless of sequence number. Owners assume that "identical" cars are truly "identical". When I and 99 other people purchased "identical" 2012 1SS LS3s, each of the cars did not produce exactly 426 bhp and 420 lb/ft at exactly the same rpm. This wasn't true back in the day and it isn't true now. This doesn't even begin to address the rest of the variables such as driver or that a car's ET is more than just the raw performance of the engine. Consider taking the LS3 out of my car and putting it into another "identically equipped" car with the identical break-in procedure. The cars even when driven by the same driver will probably not produce identical ETs.

My own LS3 was broken in close tho the 'factory' method. But I also tempered it with what I know about pushrod V8s. Yes I got more aggressive as the magical mileage number approached. No it didn't think that at that number something changed in the engine, and neither did I never see high rpm during that time.

Having seen the effects of improper cam break-in, I can't ever agree that the 'harder the break-in' is best. It is undoubtedly the case that the "official factory" break in is very conservative, but at the same time, we can all imagine turning a new engine into a grenade quite easily within 100 miles; I'm sure we all know just what to do to really break-in ultra hard; if you can't imagine what to do, you haven't played with enough junk cars! Knowing that, we can reasonably say that both extremes produce mixed results at best.

The "best" method, as is usually the case, is in the wide middle ground that gives maximum positive effect while avoiding negative effect, but I feel it is a gross over-statement and error to use the "hardest is best" mantra. In my opinion that mindset on one hand means that somebody out there can tell the effect he's getting through the loud pedal, and on the other takes for granted that my "hard" break-in is your "hard" break-in, and if we where both "man enough" we could do a "hard break in" like Johnny Lugnuts, whose car beat mine at the drags, since that must be the reason I lost since we both have stock 2012 1SS LS3s.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:28 AM   #4
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So can it do serious harm before 1,000 miles? My 2SS (automatic trans) has about 800 miles right now, most of that on the highway. Ive gunned it a few times passing people, but haven't gone above 4500 rpms yet, and I don't "drive it like I stole it" around town.
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Old 12-05-2015, 06:49 AM   #5
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most of the stuff on this subject is pure B.S.If is new just take it easy-its new duh!otherwise-if its yours go ahead slam on it see if you can break something early.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:00 AM   #6
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I drove mine like I stole it from day 1. Dynoed similar numbers to a Dynojet on a mustang dyno after intake, headers, exhaust at 1200 miles(422rwhp, 423rwtq). Then, on same dyno, similar conditions, the tuner said I had the highest numbers he'd seen on his dyno for a stock bottom end N/A street setup(512rwhp, 446rwtq). This, at 4200 miles...
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:11 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisBlair View Post
And this is where the trouble starts.

Two sets of "tests" done without controls, which are perceived as producing a certain effect.

Seating rings is one thing, but anecdotes such as these do not ever take into account that each engine is different from another anyway regardless of sequence number. Owners assume that "identical" cars are truly "identical". When I and 99 other people purchased "identical" 2012 1SS LS3s, each of the cars did not produce exactly 426 bhp and 420 lb/ft at exactly the same rpm. This wasn't true back in the day and it isn't true now. This doesn't even begin to address the rest of the variables such as driver or that a car's ET is more than just the raw performance of the engine. Consider taking the LS3 out of my car and putting it into another "identically equipped" car with the identical break-in procedure. The cars even when driven by the same driver will probably not produce identical ETs.

My own LS3 was broken in close tho the 'factory' method. But I also tempered it with what I know about pushrod V8s. Yes I got more aggressive as the magical mileage number approached. No it didn't think that at that number something changed in the engine, and neither did I never see high rpm during that time.

Having seen the effects of improper cam break-in, I can't ever agree that the 'harder the break-in' is best. It is undoubtedly the case that the "official factory" break in is very conservative, but at the same time, we can all imagine turning a new engine into a grenade quite easily within 100 miles; I'm sure we all know just what to do to really break-in ultra hard; if you can't imagine what to do, you haven't played with enough junk cars! Knowing that, we can reasonably say that both extremes produce mixed results at best.

The "best" method, as is usually the case, is in the wide middle ground that gives maximum positive effect while avoiding negative effect, but I feel it is a gross over-statement and error to use the "hardest is best" mantra. In my opinion that mindset on one hand means that somebody out there can tell the effect he's getting through the loud pedal, and on the other takes for granted that my "hard" break-in is your "hard" break-in, and if we where both "man enough" we could do a "hard break in" like Johnny Lugnuts, whose car beat mine at the drags, since that must be the reason I lost since we both have stock 2012 1SS LS3s.
That is well put and makes a great deal of common sense.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:51 AM   #8
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just me, but i would think you wouldnt want to be hard on an engine that still has debris from original manufacturing moving around in it. is potentially harming your engine worth some hypothetical gains?
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHIOSS View Post
I've heard from a few people that told me the harder you drove your car during the break in period the more HP you will have after it's broke in. Is there any truth to this, or is it simply a rumor?
I feel that you are asking a question
That concerns you so I Will give you give
you an honest answer. This lie is bullshit
Most likely generated by my dear friends
On this site. Break your car in gently and
Give your great engine time to seat the
Oil and compression rings to your cylinder
Wall.
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Old 12-05-2015, 07:57 AM   #10
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If you break it in easy, such as keeping the rpm's always low, sustained highway cruising at low rpms and generally babying it when driving, the rings will never fully seat like they should. This will cause the engine to have less effective compression. Then, you will tend to burn more oil over time because you didn't develop the proper cross-hatching and piston ring to cylinder bore seal that you could have with a proper break in procedure.

People think that you will harm the engine with a hard break in. Not so. It's actually better for the engine if you do it that way. Furthermore, since we all have rev limiters where the ECU cuts off the fuel supply after a certain rpm level is achieved, there is really no way to seriously harm these engines by accidentally over reving them. The built in nannies will always protect you from that.

Now, I'm not saying you have to drive it like a maniac to get a proper break in procedure, but don't be driving it around like a hypermiler bent on getting maximum mpg. These engines like to rev and you shouldn't be afraid of taking them up there to higher rpms.

If you want an oil burner, just drive it nice and easy and be afraid of high rpms.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:25 AM   #11
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It simply comes down to who you believe.....the manufacturer of our Camaros and their drivetrains, or people/owners without any real test data to back up their claims.

I put my recommendations with the manufacturer. I broke in my vehicle per the recommendations in my owners manual.
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:35 AM   #12
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This break in procedural is garbage.
I am not sure if these proponents are real or not.
These answers that tell you to drive
It like you stole it is the worst form of bull shit.
This defies mechanical engineering at its
Most basic level. Friends,do not break in
Your great car
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Old 12-05-2015, 08:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikosV6 View Post
If you break it in easy, such as keeping the rpm's always low, sustained highway cruising at low rpms and generally babying it when driving, the rings will never fully seat like they should. This will cause the engine to have less effective compression. Then, you will tend to burn more oil over time because you didn't develop the proper cross-hatching and piston ring to cylinder bore seal that you could have with a proper break in procedure.
Ummm . . . crosshatching is not produced by running the engine or driving the car. If it's not there before you install the pistons in their bores it ain't gonna happen. Let's not try to confuse or mislead people who haven't ever had an engine completely apart.

There is a whole spectrum of break-in intensity (for lack of a better term) than the inadequate treatment that you're calling "easy" (which it isn't, not really) and overdoing it (as you seem to be suggesting is "best"). As Chris said earlier, what's really best lies somewhere in between.

On a new car, things like bearings and gears also need to have their microscopic-level wearing-in completed. And "breaking in" all of these components generates heat. Think local hot spots here if your break-in regimen isn't allowing sufficient cooling. For new axle gears after the first easy 40 - 50 mile break-in drive, you won't jump out of the driver's seat and hold your bare hand on the diff cover for as long as it took you to read this, guaranteed. Think about that for a moment . . .


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Old 12-05-2015, 08:56 AM   #14
asher628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikosV6 View Post
If you break it in easy, such as keeping the rpm's always low, sustained highway cruising at low rpms and generally babying it when driving, the rings will never fully seat like they should. This will cause the engine to have less effective compression. Then, you will tend to burn more oil over time because you didn't develop the proper cross-hatching and piston ring to cylinder bore seal that you could have with a proper break in procedure.

People think that you will harm the engine with a hard break in. Not so. It's actually better for the engine if you do it that way. Furthermore, since we all have rev limiters where the ECU cuts off the fuel supply after a certain rpm level is achieved, there is really no way to seriously harm these engines by accidentally over reving them. The built in nannies will always protect you from that.

Now, I'm not saying you have to drive it like a maniac to get a proper break in procedure, but don't be driving it around like a hypermiler bent on getting maximum mpg. These engines like to rev and you shouldn't be afraid of taking them up there to higher rpms.

If you want an oil burner, just drive it nice and easy and be afraid of high rpms.
This kind of bull shit troubles me because
With this garbage you are able to persuade
The ignorant and sad people will listen to
You Bs. Can we meet in a dark alley
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