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Old 03-11-2018, 08:51 PM   #1
parish8

 
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Brake issue, sinking pedal after bleeding brakes

I put on the 15”(wheel) rear brake kit and bled the brakes. Now I have a slowly sinking brake pedal when I step on the brakes. It’s not spongy, it is sinking. I went ahead and bled them some more, about 10 cycles per corner and the problem is still there. I never let the fluid get low and there are no leaks.

Any ideas? Seems like a bad master cylinder. Maybe there is a special brake bleeding procedure we need to use?
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-12-2018, 05:13 AM   #2
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Had my calipers powder coated Friday and I’ve tried all weekend trying to bleed my brakes but it’s still sinking and soft. I give up and calling dealer this morning.
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #3
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I have the same issue, but its only when I'm just sitting.
Driving it you can't tell anything is different.
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Perdieu View Post
I have the same issue, but its only when I'm just sitting.
Driving it you can't tell anything is different.
I guess I should go drive it.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-12-2018, 01:52 PM   #5
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I drove around quite a bit Sunday and its not sinking as bad but definitely not as hard as should be. Got an appointment with dealer tomorrow morning. They "owe" me a service so I hoping I can get this done almost free.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:25 AM   #6
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Just got back from dealer and back to normal. They just did thier “normal” brake fluid flush procedure. Sorry I didn’t get any more info than that.
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Old 03-13-2018, 03:15 PM   #7
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Yeah sometimes you can get a bubble in there even if you try really hard not to.
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Old 03-13-2018, 05:04 PM   #8
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I tired the mallet on the caliper trick. Didn’t help at all. Sounds like I need to go through the “automated bleed cycle”. It will be in for an alignment soon, maybe I will just have them do it.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perdieu View Post
I have the same issue, but its only when I'm just sitting.
Driving it you can't tell anything is different.
I did get to drive my car last night and didn’t notice the issue. Strange.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
I did get to drive my car last night and didn’t notice the issue. Strange.
If it comes back, old trick I uses to do years ago. Get a oil pump can, install hose to bleeder, pump fluid caliper up. Used this trick with Harleys and DOT4.
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Old 03-15-2018, 08:33 AM   #11
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Something basic that may help http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/caliper-mounting/
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:13 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
Keep the ideas coming but I don’t think this is the problem. The calipers are verticals with the bleeder pointed strait up.


Turns out things are not good enough. After some aggressive driving last night I could smell my brakes and the rear rotors were at least twice as hot as the front. I am going to have to sort this out before I continue tuning.

Someone suggested Teflon tape on the bleeder threads and using a mightyvac, I have that stuff and will try that next. If that doesn’t work I may just take it to someone that can do the “automated bleed cycle”.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 03-15-2018, 03:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
Keep the ideas coming but I don’t think this is the problem. The calipers are verticals with the bleeder pointed strait up.


Turns out things are not good enough. After some aggressive driving last night I could smell my brakes and the rear rotors were at least twice as hot as the front. I am going to have to sort this out before I continue tuning.

Someone suggested Teflon tape on the bleeder threads and using a mightyvac, I have that stuff and will try that next. If that doesn’t work I may just take it to someone that can do the “automated bleed cycle”.
I'd personally suggest avoiding teflon tape and get something like this. Friend of mine has had pretty good luck with it and it lasts a full year before re-applying (he bleeds after each of his 10+ track days a year). I don't think teflon tape would last that long, nor do I like the risk of the tape ripping and getting into the caliper with the constant tightening/loosening of the bleed screw.
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpha1BC View Post
I'd personally suggest avoiding teflon tape and get something like this. Friend of mine has had pretty good luck with it and it lasts a full year before re-applying (he bleeds after each of his 10+ track days a year). I don't think teflon tape would last that long, nor do I like the risk of the tape ripping and getting into the caliper with the constant tightening/loosening of the bleed screw.
Did you re-use the copper crush rings between the line and caliper?
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