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Old 03-20-2017, 09:29 AM   #15
Darth Martel
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I have the sub of thump box and it fits perfectly. I think it's approximately in the 170 dead Washingtons range.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Martel View Post
Wait, hold up... The Mylink actually sends out a full range audio signal and we don't need a decoder? This information is amazing as it's been assumed that all Mylinks output a coded signal. It will make upgrading our 1SS factory systems so much easier.

You have a nice clean setup. Great work! And great job in trying something we figured was impossible because of a faulty assumption.

KUDOS!!!
This is amazing! In this case sounds like a FARK (factory amp replacement kit) could be made similar to the Thump of Sub FARK for the 5th gen. A harness to the big green plug that gives you RCA's and a harness to the black plug that gives you speaker wires to your amp. Throw the factory amp away.
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post
This is amazing! In this case sounds like a FARK (factory amp replacement kit) could be made similar to the Thump of Sub FARK for the 5th gen. A harness to the big green plug that gives you RCA's and a harness to the black plug that gives you speaker wires to your amp. Throw the factory amp away.
They said this plug-n-play harness can also be used as a FARK.
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Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges


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1100 on 01/07/2016 at Penske Chevrolet
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Old 03-20-2017, 12:56 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post
This is amazing! In this case sounds like a FARK (factory amp replacement kit) could be made similar to the Thump of Sub FARK for the 5th gen. A harness to the big green plug that gives you RCA's and a harness to the black plug that gives you speaker wires to your amp. Throw the factory amp away.
Correction. Looks like everything is in the green plug. Black plug looks like just power.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:00 PM   #19
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They said this plug-n-play harness can also be used as a FARK.
Then you would still need to use a LOC to get RCA's though right?
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:17 PM   #20
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To me it just looks like the harness makes it a lot easier to do what I did here. Look at all that cutting. Still trying to wrap my head around how you could use that harness without the factory amp.
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Old 03-20-2017, 01:34 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wal-dog View Post
Then you would still need to use a LOC to get RCA's though right?
I was told you could cut the harness on the one side and splice RCA outputs to the wires. Not sure if that is true or not.
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Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges


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Old 03-20-2017, 02:11 PM   #22
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I was told you could cut the harness on the one side and splice RCA outputs to the wires. Not sure if that is true or not.
That could work. Interesting.
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Old 03-20-2017, 02:58 PM   #23
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All of the connections that you need are in the green plug. I'm not sure if there is a remote turn on there. I ran a wire for mine from the cigarette lighter. It is retained account. (Stays on until door is opened)
I made my own rcas cables. All you have to do is cut off one end of the rcas and wire it into the amp input and plug the other side into your new amp. (Drops mic)
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:04 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by burnningice View Post
All of the connections that you need are in the green plug. I'm not sure if there is a remote turn on there. I ran a wire for mine from the cigarette lighter. It is retained account. (Stays on until door is opened)
I made my own rcas cables. All you have to do is cut off one end of the rcas and wire it into the amp input and plug the other side into your new amp. (Drops mic)
I was told when I got my plug-n-play harness that there is no remote turn on coming from the factory so I would have to make my own so I tapped into the fuse box in the trunk that way I did not have to run a wire up to the front. Works great
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2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 with body color hood vents, Silver broken 5 spoke wheels, NPP dual exhaust, Dark Night Interior Spectrum Lighting, Illuminated door sills plates.

Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges


Order ID: TDHQMS
1100 on 01/07/2016 at Penske Chevrolet
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:29 PM   #25
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This diagram for the green x2 connector in the 1ss does show front and rear left and right low level audio signals:
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...55&postcount=1

The same connector in the 2ss (Bose) does not show line levels, but does show "control" signals:
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=17

The 1SS system has 3 plugs going into the amp.
The 2SS (Bose) system has 4 plugs.
I don't have all the pinouts for all the Bose connectors. Can anyone post them?
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:48 PM   #26
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I have access to alldata. Their diagrams are simpler than the GM one. I also can get access to Mitchell manuals. They are the easiest to read.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:24 AM   #27
Darth Martel
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Screenshots of that would be most appreciated.


Quote:
Originally Posted by burnningice View Post
I have access to alldata. Their diagrams are simpler than the GM one. I also can get access to Mitchell manuals. They are the easiest to read.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:16 PM   #28
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I forgot to take pictures today. I will try when I return back to work in a few days.
I'm trying to figure out what I want to do about a sub box. I'm seriously considering fiberglassing my own box to go on the left side like the JL audio box. That is redicliously priced. It's either that or buy one off of ebay. Sub thump does not offer one with only one sub. Nor will they reply to my emails asking to make one with only one hole.
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