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Old 12-28-2017, 10:42 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8 View Post
I wasn't planning on bleeding the brakes myself. Is it easy?
I would argue it is easy yes, but if you've never done any such work yourself, learning right before your first track days may not be the optimal occasion. If you are going to have a shop do it, you probably want to supply the brake fluid. I remember years ago before my first track day (instructional like yours), I took my car in and the mechanic "explained" how brake fluid boiling points were a scam, etc. They simply had no exposure to non-street applications and didn't stock many types of fluid.

PolynesianPowerhouse's tips are good. Regular tires like the stock all seasons ones are actually the best type to learn on. Yes they'll overheat and get greasy and possibly chunk, but you'll learn lots. Regarding the air pump, that brings up a good point about tire pressures; Bring a pressure gauge too. If you're going hard on track, your pressures will likely increase ~8-10psi when hot. The higher pressures may cause more uneven wear than you will inevitably experience. You may want to consider starting out with cold tire pressures in the 30-32psi range. Your wheels will likely be too hot to touch for a number of minutes after a session, so be careful if/when check after. Regarding hot brakes, try to do either a cool down lap or drive around the parking area, etc. to cool down the brakes.
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Old 12-29-2017, 12:22 AM   #30
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More great info. Thanks so much!
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Old 12-29-2017, 06:35 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8 View Post
I wasn't planning on bleeding the brakes myself. Is it easy?
Very easy given the tools you use.

I have a motive power bleeder. Paid like 79 for the aluminum cap version from summit racing.

Fill with fluid, hook it up to the master cylinder, pump it up to 12psi, and just bleed each corner. One person operation.

You can use the old school two person way, juat takes a bit longer. Still easy though.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:18 AM   #32
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I wouldn't make that caliper swap right before your track day, either. Not at the rank novice level where you're learning all the new stuff about driving on track and driving the car harder. Don't add "learning the new brakes" to your burden.

After you've done a few track days, making significant changes to your car won't be nearly as likely to result in momentary mental overload.


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Old 12-29-2017, 11:32 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8 View Post
Thanks for pointing me to the manual. For whatwver reason, I didn't see that section in my printed manual. Nevertheless, it doesn't mention the LGX. It reads as though the instructions apply only to the SS or turbo. I'm confused.
I take that to mean that for the LGX, there is no special maintenance needed on your part, other than to keep an eye on the oil level.

Also, with regards to oil, it can be a good idea to change your oil AFTER tracking your car. Tracking the car can be hard on the oil. I usually make sure I have at least half my oil life left before tracking, then change the oil right after I get home from the track. But, I am a little OCD with this stuff at times.
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse View Post
Very easy given the tools you use.

I have a motive power bleeder. Paid like 79 for the aluminum cap version from summit racing.

Fill with fluid, hook it up to the master cylinder, pump it up to 12psi, and just bleed each corner. One person operation.

You can use the old school two person way, juat takes a bit longer. Still easy though.
Hmm, that does sound easy.
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:28 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
I wouldn't make that caliper swap right before your track day, either. Not at the rank novice level where you're learning all the new stuff about driving on track and driving the car harder. Don't add "learning the new brakes" to your burden.

After you've done a few track days, making significant changes to your car won't be nearly as likely to result in momentary mental overload.


Norm
I hadn't thought of that. I already ordered the Brembos and my plan as to have them installed before the Stage 2 day. My thought was to maximize the life of the stock brakes.
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:30 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteboyblues2001 View Post
I take that to mean that for the LGX, there is no special maintenance needed on your part, other than to keep an eye on the oil level.

Also, with regards to oil, it can be a good idea to change your oil AFTER tracking your car. Tracking the car can be hard on the oil. I usually make sure I have at least half my oil life left before tracking, then change the oil right after I get home from the track. But, I am a little OCD with this stuff at times.
I might have the same OCD. Lol! I was planning on changing the oil right after track day too.
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:01 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Could've_had_a_V8 View Post
I hadn't thought of that. I already ordered the Brembos and my plan as to have them installed before the Stage 2 day. My thought was to maximize the life of the stock brakes.
Not a bad thought, but on the track most OEM pads are way out of their optimal temperature zone and wear away rather quickly. Note where the friction lines go down here: https://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/...und-Charts.pdf The OEM pads probably have a heat range a fair bit lower than the HPS. A pad with a higher heat range will last longer. If you wait until after your second day, the single piston pads may be worn out and you'll optimize your expenditures. I'd check the pad thickness after the first one just to be safe.
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Old 12-31-2017, 05:34 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Snrub View Post
Not a bad thought, but on the track most OEM pads are way out of their optimal temperature zone and wear away rather quickly. Note where the friction lines go down here: https://www.tirerack.com/images/pdf/...und-Charts.pdf The OEM pads probably have a heat range a fair bit lower than the HPS. A pad with a higher heat range will last longer. If you wait until after your second day, the single piston pads may be worn out and you'll optimize your expenditures. I'd check the pad thickness after the first one just to be safe.
I guess I'll see how day 1 goes and decide from there. Thanks!
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