[eaglesfan2006]

I have an amp and powered sub from my last car and since I have nothing to do I figured I might try and install this amp to the factory system. Spoke with crutchfield and they showed me this article/guide: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xMFe8c...ory-radio.html

Seems fairly simple, but the more searching I have done here the harder this actually seems with our vehicle. So I want to clear a few things up.

1) Can I tap into the wires behind the head unit?
2) If no, where am I supposed to tap in and do we have any decent guides? I saw a few comments saying behind the glove box(?)
3) is there anything else I should know before getting started?

Thanks!

Notes:
Amp is a Kenwood Excelon x301-4 (50watts per channel).
The 1LE does not have an amp in the trunk.
Door speakers will be purchased and installed at a later date.

[RLNTLSS]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515713

[Josh42089]

Mine also was a non Bose with no amp in the back. I tapped off both my rear sail speakers. I had a lot of problems trying to accomplish adding a sub. Mainly because I was using shitty t taps so wasn’t getting connection. Eventually I got rid of it all and soldered and worked perfect. But then there was the active noise cancellation issue. I gave up after all the hours I had alrdy put into it. I took it to a shop and they disconnected something on the bcm. Took them an hour so must have been pretty straight forward.

[oOKhanhOo]

Purchased the PAC Audio GM-61 Module or the NAVTV module. It takes the factory EQs and gives out Flat and clean RCA outputs. You can also control the door chimes and turn signal volume. since you're going with a 4-channel amp, w/o the module, any chimes/turn signal noise will be amplified.

[eaglesfan2006]

Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo

Purchased the PAC Audio GM-61 Module or the NAVTV module. It takes the factory EQs and gives out Flat and clean RCA outputs. You can also control the door chimes and turn signal volume. since you're going with a 4-channel amp, w/o the module, any chimes/turn signal noise will be amplified.

So I've seen this suggested before as well, but what I have read on the PAC Audio site is that this is if you have the bose setup. will it work with non bose?

As a beginner, Crutchfield advised me to get two efx 9-wire speaker wire and run those to the factory head unit. and then just replace the door speakers. Since I'm not putting out high power (50watts/ch) the factory wiring would be fine. Article for reference: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XNKkEy...ory-radio.html

Will I have any issues with this?
Edit: AMP has speaker level inputs which is why Crutchfield said an LOC isn't needed.

[RLNTLSS]

This might help
https://youtu.be/2dp1ZQYRJ0U

[eaglesfan2006]

Originally Posted by RLNTLSS

This might help
https://youtu.be/2dp1ZQYRJ0U

So for our vehicle I’ve seen people use the LC7i and LC6i. From what I have read that I would need to tap into the front speakers on our vehicle to get the full sound range since I plan on adding a sub in the near future. The LOC should give a cleaner sound compared to using the high level inputs, correct?

I can purchase an LOC and some RCAs and speaker wire, that’s no issue. Just trying to be efficient and build something simple. Which is why crutchfield suggested to go this route. I’m the new guy here so if there’s a more optimal route please let me know! I’m going to do some more digging here, but any tips or info is appreciated.

[RLNTLSS]

I'm pretty lazy so what I did is I just went ahead and got the LC2I and I also have a Bose for me I could either just pull off the back two speakers and use that signal going into the L2CI and now I can control the base roll off you know how like whenever you're basing and as you turn it up the base sounds like it's gone away well with the LC2I you can constantly keep the base at the same amount of power going to the amp meaning you need an RCA signal either use the back speakers and as you turn it up you're putting heavy raw wattage into the RCA plug going into the app which could burn out the amp or cause the amp to get hot and flicker on and off but if you use the LC or RCA converter you can give it one constant value 2 volts to I think 10 volts or 16 volts I don't know you can constantly keep the audio where you want it so you can turn it up and down and you'll get the base where it's supposed to be if you turn it down the base would be normal if you turn it up the base would be normal plus the power but it would never roll off so if you turn it up to 50 it'll never roll down because it's it rolls off to avoid damaging rear speakers

[oOKhanhOo]

Originally Posted by eaglesfan2006

So I've seen this suggested before as well, but what I have read on the PAC Audio site is that this is if you have the bose setup. will it work with non bose?

As a beginner, Crutchfield advised me to get two efx 9-wire speaker wire and run those to the factory head unit. and then just replace the door speakers. Since I'm not putting out high power (50watts/ch) the factory wiring would be fine. Article for reference: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-XNKkEy...ory-radio.html

Will I have any issues with this?
Edit: AMP has speaker level inputs which is why Crutchfield said an LOC isn't needed.

Yes, it'll work. I have 1SS 1LE, non Bose and no amp in the trunk.

[Coded4SS]

So I got a 1le. I really need to put in a sub and would like to do the speakers too. But to get started can someone give me a list of to buy things? I don't need anything over the top but I do need some bass and eventually better speaker audio. Any help much appreciated

[G2K]

hopefully some of the experts here response the thing is i've been lurcking for a while and it seems everyone goes all out and spends thousands on the stereo.

I like you want something simple not over the top... cant convince myself to spend too much on the stereo... I just want a little extra, but that would sound good if not then i might save myself and do nothing like i've done for the past 2 yrs :P

[Coded4SS]

Originally Posted by G2K

hopefully some of the experts here response the thing is i've been lurcking for a while and it seems everyone goes all out and spends thousands on the stereo.

I like you want something simple not over the top... cant convince myself to spend too much on the stereo... I just want a little extra, but that would sound good if not then i might save myself and do nothing like i've done for the past 2 yrs :P

Ya same thing man. Just want a 500 ish sub n amp setup and go from there

[Msquared]

Another 1LE owner here. I started out last weekend by just replacing the dash speakers with Audiofrog GS2.5 mid/tweeters. Big improvement in sound quality, but of course not in quantity (volume). I may eventually replace the 6x9 woofers in the door with their GS690, which should go lower and really improve the clarity and refinement of the system. For my use, I really don't care about adding a sub, and I don't think I care if the existing rear speakers have amplification or even play. I didn't think I was going to add an amp either, because I didn't want to add weight, take up trunk space, run wires all over the car, or spend a bunch of money. But there are some interesting miniamps out there now.

I'm looking seriously at the Kicker KEY180.4 (or the newer KEY200.4). Here are the things it is supposed to be able to do:

• It adds 45w (or 50w for the newer one) to four channels. Not a lot of power, but probably an order of magnitude more than comes from our tunner under the glovebox.
• It has an automated DSP process that's supposed to improve the sound using a 40-band equalizer function.
• It can be used in biamp mode, which allows you to use the four channels to actively cross over a component system like our door and dash speakers. So this would allow me to get rid of the capacitors in the signal path (at the speaker connectors) that function as a passive equalizer. It should also allow more efficient use of the power, too.
• It might be small enough to be tucked under the dash or console, or at worst maybe under the seat.

I'm wondering if anyone else here has tried this thing? It's obviously not an audiophile quality amp, but it seems like it should be a big improvement in sound. My take on sound quality is that there's only so much I'm willing to spend in a car that's fairly noisy. I just wanted better sound than the stock system gives, mainly to make it more musical. I don't need it to "hit hard" or win a decibel contest. And I have a more audiophile-grade system at home for serious listening.

[glopez5]

I posted about this 2 years ago, all you need is a cheap line out converter, an amp wiring kit. You tap into the rear speakers with the line out converter and you run rcas to Amp. I tapped into cig lighter for 12v remote. Used a bolt under rear seats for ground. Probably spent no more than $200.

1 JL 10w3, small sealed box, 500 watt alpine amp, Amazon wiring kit, Amazon line-out converter. Works like a charm