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Old 06-11-2020, 12:17 PM   #1
Dbunch9
 
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New lifters

It’s about time to put in fresh valve springs in my car since I have 2 years and about 24k miles on my cam setup and I want to play it safe. I’m kinda leaning towards getting Johnson 2110 lifters but I don’t know if I want to spend the money if new lifters aren’t really necessary since I put new stock lifters in when I did the cam. Are the 2110s just a direct drop in that don’t require me to measure pushrod length? And do I really need to put new lifters in in the first place? How long do lifters last on an aggressive cam setup?
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Old 06-11-2020, 12:51 PM   #2
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I would say that if you are happy with the current lifters and they dont make a lot of noise then just leave them in. I dont think you will find anyone that will tell you how long a lifter will last, some people they last a long time others have had problems.
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Old 06-11-2020, 01:22 PM   #3
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The lifters that TMS has made for them are pretty damn good and you can't beat the price.
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Old 06-11-2020, 01:35 PM   #4
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TMS?
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Old 06-11-2020, 07:01 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by zz430camaro View Post
TMS?
He's probably talking about Thompson Motorsports that has a drop in replacement for the LS7 lifter
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:15 PM   #6
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I am curious why link bar lifters are not a more common upgrade on our engines. What is the downside, besides price? Being able to eliminate the chance of a spun lifter, destroyed lobe/lifter bore, and ditching the lifter buckets seems like a big step toward a bullet proof valve train while keeping the budget reasonable. It is just one of those parts that people tend to go with the cheapest option, but also the one part that everyone gets nervous about failing. I am in this boat as well as I went with OEM LS7 lifters in my build.

Anyhow, I have been looking at the CamMotion hydraulic link bars ($400). They have 2 versions, one being a higher grade, but they have no pricing info on that one. I also have no info if these 2 sets are a true in house designed and ground part or if they are a rebrand (Comp, Summit, etc...) - I also haven't heard of anyone running them. Hypothetically, if going link bar setup is it really better to just pay the premium for the Johnsons, Morels, etc?

In case nobody has seen them:

CamMotion hydraulic link bars ($400)
https://cammotion.com/lifters/ls-hyd...tie-bar-style/

CamMotion LS Premium High Performance Hydraulic Link Bar Roller Lifters (Call for pricing/order)
https://cammotion.com/lifters/ls-pre...tie-bar-style/
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:24 PM   #7
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I sent Thompson an email tonight asking about them. That’d be a good option for me if they don’t require pushrod measuring, can’t really afford to have my car down for a week while I wait for pushrods to get shipped I’d prefer the Johnson lifters tho if anyone has more info about those
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Old 06-11-2020, 09:58 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Dbunch9 View Post
I sent Thompson an email tonight asking about them. That’d be a good option for me if they don’t require pushrod measuring, can’t really afford to have my car down for a week while I wait for pushrods to get shipped I’d prefer the Johnson lifters tho if anyone has more info about those
You will need to measure as Johnson's are taller than the LS7 lifter. Also I set preload at .075 on ls7 lifter and Johnson recommends .035
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Old 06-11-2020, 11:16 PM   #9
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I’m probably gonna just keep the lifters I have in.... I only have 24k miles on these lifters and I really haven’t been hard on the car the last year cause I’ve been having rear end and clutch issues. But I appreciate everyone’s help... just doesn’t seem like a necessary $400 with having my car down a week minimum waiting on another $100 in pushrods and installing. I appreciate the input though thanks guys
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Old 06-12-2020, 12:41 AM   #10
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plus all the coolant, head gaskets and labor to pull the heads off
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Old 06-12-2020, 12:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbunch9 View Post
I’m probably gonna just keep the lifters I have in.... I only have 24k miles on these lifters and I really haven’t been hard on the car the last year cause I’ve been having rear end and clutch issues. But I appreciate everyone’s help... just doesn’t seem like a necessary $400 with having my car down a week minimum waiting on another $100 in pushrods and installing. I appreciate the input though thanks guys
I totally get that. $400 is a lot for a part when they make reliable alternatives for substantially less.

It's all part of balancing your budget vs finding the right balance of parts for your particular build. Because once you go all out strengthening one part then another becomes the weak point.
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Old 06-12-2020, 02:09 PM   #12
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GPI told me the 2110 SLR drop ins are the same height or length as stock.
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Old 06-12-2020, 03:47 PM   #13
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GPI told me the 2110 SLR drop ins are the same height or length as stock.
Yes, the 2110 slow leak down are but the standard 2110 are taller
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:34 PM   #14
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If you really wanted to play it safe you would be using driven racing oil ls30 IMO, your stock rollers if they were new replaced when camming should be fine. A manual is more prone to stressing the springs also BTW if you like to downshift and may go over the rev limit and your springs could be tested and test out fine if your not hard on them.... But safety is important and failure not much of a option.
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