[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by danhr

What's the price on those brakes? I would assume that's all you need to get a 15" wheel on the front. Even though going from a 17x front wheel to a 15" front wheel only saves you a pound and a half per wheel.... why the hell not.

As far as gearing goes, that does sound perfect. I'm waiting to see what my dyno graph looks like before I commit to a tire and gear combo. I'm a huge advocate of "dont fear the gear". As soon as I figure out where this sucker makes peak power at and what the graph looks like, I will commit

What 27.5 tire were you looking at?

Aerospace quoted me 980. They don’t have rears ready yet. Supposed to be 38-40 lb drop on the fronts not sure on rear.

My 17x4.5 race stars are 17 lbs. my 17x9.5 rears are 21 lbs each. The billet specialty wheels I been looking at are 15x3.5 and 10 lbs each. The 15x9 wheel is 14 lbs. my tire weight will be the same all around. So I’ll lose about 28 lbs switching to 15 wheels and around 70 lbs from brakes all around. So looking at about 100 lbs from that.

Looking at the 255/60/15 et street r. They are 27.5 according to MT. If they are a bit shorter shouldn’t be a problem. Car runs about the same with the shifts up to about 6700. So I can still avoid another shift if need be by holding it in gear at the traps

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/d...es/et-street-r

So with a 3.27 gear 100 lbs lighter and dialed in I’m hoping for 10.6s in negative DA. If not I’ll drop more weight with a few more ideas. Custom dumped exhaust, maybe some carbon body parts, race front seat, pull sway bar. Dieting mysel lol. Can get about another 100 out of the car without going too crazy. That will probably be as far as I ever go with WR. Should take it to the 34-3500 raceweight range.

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Aerospace quoted me 980. They don’t have rears ready yet. Supposed to be 38-40 lb drop on the fronts not sure on rear.

My 17x4.5 race stars are 17 lbs. my 17x9.5 rears are 21 lbs each. The billet specialty wheels I been looking at are 15x3.5 and 10 lbs each. The 15x9 wheel is 14 lbs. my tire weight will be the same all around. So I’ll lose about 28 lbs switching to 15 wheels and around 70 lbs from brakes all around. So looking at about 100 lbs from that.

Looking at the 255/60/15 et street r. They are 27.5 according to MT. If they are a bit shorter shouldn’t be a problem. Car runs about the same with the shifts up to about 6700. So I can still avoid another shift if need be by holding it in gear at the traps

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/d...es/et-street-r

So with a 3.27 gear 100 lbs lighter and dialed in I’m hoping for 10.6s in negative DA. If not I’ll drop more weight with a few more ideas. Custom dumped exhaust, maybe some carbon body parts, race front seat, pull sway bar. Dieting mysel lol. Can get about another 100 out of the car without going too crazy. That will probably be as far as I ever go with WR. Should take it to the 34-3500 raceweight range.

keep me updated on the front! for that kind of price and weight reduction, that's a good price.

I weighed a friends bogart 17x5, and it was only 11 lbs I think. I just hope the price is about the same, as his were. Also if you don't mind it, run bias ply tires up front. That will save you roughly 11 lbs per front wheel. So that's 22 lbs of rotational unsprung weight.... the most eviliest kind of weight ever.

I just plan on taking off my axle back for hail mary passes... leaving the NPP on for the rest of the time.

There are also race batteries..... I found a motorcycle battery that weighs 4 lbs, that I might try. it has 540 CCA, but only like 31 ah.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by danhr

keep me updated on the front! for that kind of price and weight reduction, that's a good price.

I weighed a friends bogart 17x5, and it was only 11 lbs I think. I just hope the price is about the same, as his were. Also if you don't mind it, run bias ply tires up front. That will save you roughly 11 lbs per front wheel. So that's 22 lbs of rotational unsprung weight.... the most eviliest kind of weight ever.

I just plan on taking off my axle back for hail mary passes... leaving the NPP on for the rest of the time.

There are also race batteries..... I found a motorcycle battery that weighs 4 lbs, that I might try. it has 540 CCA, but only like 31 ah.

GPI is going to have kits soon for the fronts. Supposed to be a bolt in option no major modifications/ cutting etc required. Could easily revert back. I’m not sure if it will be the same price as what I was quoted or the same exact kit. But pretty sure it’s aerospace as well

Yeah I’m running bias ply up front currently. Don’t mind them at all.

I think the BS wheels are around 350 each iirc

Not sure when I’ll have the wheel, brake and gear swap all done. Maybe not this year. Will probably have to settle for half of what I listed for this year. The rest in spring. Remodeling the house right now limited funds.

I run an xs power battery currently. S975. 35 ah. Weighs a little over 20 lbs. I was running something a little smaller but it didn’t like warm starts and it eventually failed on me at the track

[danhr]

Update: threw the headers on the car yesterday (did both through the top). Tomorrow I will finish cutting and welding the speed engineering x pipe to fit the looks headers and factory NPp exhaust.

My msd intake is scheduled to be delivered on Wednesday, so I will have the car aligned and dynod on Thursday.

[ULTRAZLS1]

were you still interested or able to get the time to test the throttle bodies?

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

were you still interested or able to get the time to test the throttle bodies?

Yes sir. I was going to PM you after it got tuned. The tuner and I were going to play with a few ideas, which might take a few days.... I didnt want your throttle body to get mixed up in all of that because I wanted to minimize the amount of time I had your throttle body/your down time.

Other update: exhaust is finished. The speed engineering x pipe kit is a quality piece... not even factoring in the price. The welds on the x pipe look better than the welds on my kooks headers. Lol

Sometime this long weekend I will throw the underdrive pulley on. Intake still looks like it will be here onWednesday, so I have an appointment with my friends performance shop to get a drag race oriented alignment on it, on thursday.... and then right off to the dyno afterwards.

I'm really dreading dropping the trans for the converter in my garage.....

[ULTRAZLS1]

Sounds good have fun lol

Btw... I am scheduled for dyno time on Thursday June 7. That’s the only conflicting time for me currently

[danhr]

Got the underdrive pulley on today. I am reminded how much I hate those stupid stretch to fit a/c belts.

When i went to break loose the original balancer bolt, i had my 2' breaker bar, with a 4' cheater bar on it. When it broke loose, i accidentally hit the thermostat housing. There is a little bleed nipple on it, and i broke that clean off. Rock auto to the rescue... they not only had the cheapest price, but it was only $20 to overnight it.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by danhr

Got the underdrive pulley on today. I am reminded how much I hate those stupid stretch to fit a/c belts.

When i went to break loose the original balancer bolt, i had my 2' breaker bar, with a 4' cheater bar on it. When it broke loose, i accidentally hit the thermostat housing. There is a little bleed nipple on it, and i broke that clean off. Rock auto to the rescue... they not only had the cheapest price, but it was only $20 to overnight it.

I just wedged a screwdriver under it then rotated the crank and it rolled on. Same technique for removal. It’s kinda of a pain in the ass I agree.

I had a strong impact to get mine off so it wasn’t bad

[danhr]

Well everything is on, and the car is on the trailer to go get a drag strip alignment, and then dropped off at my buddies shop, FJ Performance, to get dyno tuned.

After sending my measurements to Bogart, they sent my the price tag for a set of wheels. It is very reasonable... I will wait for the final weights but I have a good idea ofwhat to expect. The fronts and rears will probably weigh around 10-11 lbs each.

For those not familiar, that's like getting weld drag series wheels (i.e. alumnistars, magnums, etc) for weld rt-s prices. And if you dont know who bogart is, they are the first company to make a drag wheel to fit on 4thgems, with no grinding or spacers, and they also make the wheels for the COPO camaro.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Any pics of how the wheels look?

17x10 and 17x4.5?

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Any pics of how the wheels look?

17x10 and 17x4.5?

15x10 in the rear
Decided on 17x5, opposed to 4.5 in the front. The benefits of better tracking and more tire selection out weigh the con of 1 lbs per wheel.

Obviously not my car, nor my wheels, but this is the design.



I believe I'm looking at 3 weeks for the wheels to get made.

[ULTRAZLS1]

Awesome. I been thinking about bogart as well

They suppose to clear your Carlyle kit in back? Are they street driveable?

About what did you pay for all 4 ballpark if you can say?

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Awesome. I been thinking about bogart as well

They suppose to clear your Carlyle kit in back? Are they street driveable?

About what did you pay for all 4 ballpark if you can say?

Yes... they should clear. I put the carlyle kit on my car and sent all the measurements to them.

I will PM you the exact price. It's pretty reasonable.