[JimRockford]

Originally Posted by JKOR

No. Both times I was actually down shifting due to slowing traffic.

Such a racetrack shifting style on the street may be costly without any benefit other than admittedly awesome snap crackle pop noises.

Its best to use brakes not clutch/gears to slow these cars on the street - unless you are descending a steep grade. Consider to stop downshifting to second like that? If you must do it do it maybe try it more slooooowly (?) - to give the 2 plates more time to match speed - shifter will engage easier?

Staying in 2nd gear in stop & go traffic can be fun and save on clutch - 2nd is good from a stop to about 75 mph .

rock on.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

This doesn't sound right. I've owned M 21, M22, toploader, and Mopar 4 speeds, at least a half-dozen fwd and rwd Japanese cars, and a couple of VWs. The 6060 in my car is as good as any of those and better than most. Have you driven another 6060 equipped gen 6 to see how it shifts compared to yours? I'm almost certain this issue is peculiar to your car.

you sound like me... word. Here is my list of the best shifting trans:
Muncie M22 pure butter, Hurst Shifter

Acura / Honda B trans on Type R with twin cone carbon fiber first gear Syncros, urethane bushing and shot shifter, 9500 RPM glory, I had to rebuild the trans every year... but glory. Guys here turn their nose up at this, but never actually owned one.. so they are clueless... pure butter but not as strong as a M22.

AX15 on Miata NC, Silvia, and BRZ / 86, smooth like butter

6060 Tremec with Redline and Hurst shifter and rev match and no lift shift, for its size and power holding, best trans on the planet, note the Dark Horse use the cheaper Tremc and of course it sucks but we all know that what do you expect for a 65000 dollar car??? LOL

Honorable mention:

Ford toploader, not as smooth as the M22 but very strong

Honda 6 speed with derelin bushing and short shifter housing... OK at least it can take 9000 shift.

Miata ND trans, all new build by Mazda, light weight, pretty smooth but some early versions know to be fragile.


T56, pretty robust but superseded by the 6060

Absolutely garbage should never be on a car:
ANY VW shifter from way back Bug to FWD Rabbits to the new 6 speeds... all are terrible, bulky and sloppy.

Mopar New Process 833, sure it was strong, but it was and is a truck transmission and performed like one, it was a good 1/2 second slower than a Muncie in the 1/4 mile because it sucked so bad. Oh and the stick shift on a B-Body was like 2 feet long (not kidding). No matter as it sucked no matter what was shifting it.

[dfwcowboy]

Originally Posted by JimRockford

Such a racetrack shifting style on the street may be costly without any benefit other than admittedly awesome snap crackle pop noises.

Its best to use brakes not clutch/gears to slow these cars on the street - unless you are descending a steep grade. Consider to stop downshifting to second like that? If you must do it do it maybe try it more slooooowly (?) - to give the 2 plates more time to match speed - shifter will engage easier?

Staying in 2nd gear in stop & go traffic can be fun and save on clutch - 2nd is good from a stop to about 75 mph .

rock on.

When you downshift the clutch isn't slowing you down unless you are using the clutch very poorly. The gears aren't slowing you down either, at least directly. What's actually slowing you down when you downshift is the compression of the cylinders which provide back pressure at idle or low throttle settings.


Personally I downshift all the time as I'm matching my gear to my speed and RPM. While I'm not downshifting for no other reason than slowing down, I am downshifting as I slow down and using that back pressure to manage the energy. I get that people say not to do this for whatever reason, and maybe they have some experience that I don't. But I learned to drive with a clutch and was taught how to downshift and in my 40+ years of driving I have never had to change out a clutch or transmission with probably a million miles or more with a 3rd pedal. With automatic rev matching it makes it even less of an issue if it ever was one.


The other thing to consider is with the LT4 is high manifold pressure at low RPM isn't a good thing. So if you don't downshift, but punch it in a high gear, low speed, you aren't doing your engine any favors. Can this actually cause damage to the LT4? I have no idea, but I do know it's a huge issue with aircraft engines that use forced induction.

[Plasar]

So your 3 to 2 downshift (or 4, to 2 probably not 5 or 6 to 2) is grinding or resisting.

* Are you rev matching (either manual or auto rev match)? (Need to do this.)
* Do you ever have a grind or resist on the 1 to 2 upshift? (This is where you would likely get a grind in my experience from worn synchros or just the hardest work the synchro is doing to match speeds.)

[JKOR]

Instant improvement going to Amsoil multi vehicle ATF. 1 and 2 are still the worst though.

[Summit20171SS]

How do you change the clutch fluid?

[6spdhyperblue]

Bleed the brakes

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by JKOR

Instant improvement going to Amsoil multi vehicle ATF. 1 and 2 are still the worst though.

In your shoes, I'd bleed the clutch hydraulics at this point. Sounds like you might not be getting full disengagement. I love the clutch/shifter in mine. I loved my 5th gen, and this one is even a little better in my opinion.

[NovaSS4spdFan]

Zero complaints.

The manual trans on my 2008 Mustang Bullitt was disappointing.

Say if you got on it and were at or over 5000 RPM, it would hang up between second and third because the engine torque would cause misalignment.