[FNxR3DNECK]

it varies based on the track, for example last year I did $35k for every event, VIR was $200, NJMP was $200, but Summit Point was $250 because that track has more incidents than most.

[R3ctivision]

I keep a plastic container in the garage with most of the things I bring with me to the track, ready to go. Here's my full list.

--- DRIVER ---

- Helmet
- Head sock
- Gloves
- Driving shoes
- Sunglasses
- Long-sleeve shirt
- Long-sleeve jacket
- Long pants
- Sunscreen
- Water

--- TOOLS ---

- Tow hook pre-installed
- Torque wrench capable of 140 ft-lbs
- Lug nut socket
- Lug nut socket extension
- Wheel lock key (I use standard lugs at the track, and wheel locks at home)
- Racing tire pressure gauge
- 12V DC-powered tire inflator
- Temperature gun
- Log book and pen+pencil
- Empty SD card for PDR
- Portable toolbox with your typical sockets, ratchets, box wrenches, etc.
- Spare plastic boxes to store the random crap you take out of your car
- Phone charger
- Four jack stands (but no portable jack, I need to get one -- mine weighs 105 lbs!)

--- PARTS/SUPPLIES ---

- 2 quarts of spare 5W-40 dexos2 oil
- 2 bottles of spare Motul RBF600 brake fluid (never needed to use this, but just in case)
- Shop towels
- One set of front brake pads (I run OEM, and they last me about 3 track days -- I don't use them if they have less than 1/3 of their thickness left -- I'll probably be on backing plates by the end of the day if I do that!)
- One set of rear brake pads (I run OEM, they last me about 4 track days -- I don't use them if they have less than 1/4 of their thickness left)
- Windshield cleaner
- Bug/tar remover
- Door numbers (magnetic)
- Roll of TrakkTape (attempt to protect front bumper, rocker panels, and rear fenders from rock/rubber damage)


No track day insurance. Never have purchased it in 10 years, I prefer to run my car at 9/10s of my ability and leave 1/10 for unforeseen situations. So far either I am lucky or simply good at avoiding incidents. I pretty rarely go 2+ wheels off, and have somehow NEVER spun my car on the track (only on autocross-like car control courses). Also, if you run at a place like Sonoma, the walls are enough of a deterrent from being a hero, track insurance or not..

[1LEASYE]

Thanks guys, I was already looking at Hagerty's for insurance and I don't think I ran across RLI yet but I'll check them out.

I've already flushed the transmission, differential and swapped in Motuls RBF 660. I also decided not to do the track alignment at this time. I daily this car alot and would rather wait to see how the car feels running on the track before I try the track alignment.

I already got my tow hook set in but that is one tool I hope not to use down there.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by 1LEASYE

I also decided not to do the track alignment at this time. I daily this car alot and would rather wait to see how the car feels running on the track before I try the track alignment.

Having seen the wear on the SC3 from track use even with a track alignment (someone else's car), I would be concerned that stock alignment could cause uneven wear issues at the outside of the tire under that kind of use.

[1LEASYE]

Was that tire wear from 1 track session or mutliple track sessions?

I'm curious since I've seen on here some people do and some don't run the track alignment during track sessions.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by 1LEASYE

Was that tire wear from 1 track session or mutliple track sessions?

I'm curious since I've seen on here some people do and some don't run the track alignment during track sessions.

He had multiple sessions on the tires. These tires seem to last a while, but my point was, if you are wearing the outside excessively due to an inadequate camber setting, you could cord it, while leaving some (now unusable) rubber on the inside of the tire. So the track alignment in my opinion is not just for better handling, it may also allow you to get more sessions in before having to buy new tires.

[R3ctivision]

I wouldn't track the car with the street alignment. OTOH, you do wear out the insides of the tires faster on the street with the track alignment.

I think going for near-zero toe is helpful. Maybe try an alignment that isn't full track alignment but isn't full street either.

[pbsinternet1le]

Originally Posted by 1LEASYE

Thanks guys, I was already looking at Hagerty's for insurance and I don't think I ran across RLI yet but I'll check them out.

I've already flushed the transmission, differential and swapped in Motuls RBF 660. I also decided not to do the track alignment at this time. I daily this car alot and would rather wait to see how the car feels running on the track before I try the track alignment.

I already got my tow hook set in but that is one tool I hope not to use down there.

It will understeer excessively with street alignment. You will save the alignment money but waste your track day..Track alignment is ok. Max front at -2.4 and rear -1.5 is better.

[desertmonkey]

I'm at 4000 miles with one track day and my alignment is off. Took it to the dealer for warranty work and got told I have uneven wear on my front tires which is causing the slight pull. Outside of the track day I haven't really driven the car hard.

I knew we didn't get a lot of miles out of the stock tires but this is insane!

[NickyRacerBoy]

ON TRACK IS CHEAPER THEN RLI. I had a friend throw his new c7z into the wall and they paid without hassles.

I am a licensed insurance agent by trade.

[pbsinternet1le]

Originally Posted by desertmonkey

I'm at 4000 miles with one track day and my alignment is off. Took it to the dealer for warranty work and got told I have uneven wear on my front tires which is causing the slight pull. Outside of the track day I haven't really driven the car hard.

I knew we didn't get a lot of miles out of the stock tires but this is insane!

That's an alignment issue not a tire problem more than likely. Did you have it aligned after you bought it ? Many have reported poor factory alignments.

[Rodan]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

ON TRACK IS CHEAPER THEN RLI.

I did a quick quote through On Track, and it was within $5 of RLI...

If there's a way to get it cheaper, I'm all ears...?

[nasbagoat]

^buy more than one event at a time

[Laststandard]

Originally Posted by R3ctivision

I wouldn't track the car with the street alignment. OTOH, you do wear out the insides of the tires faster on the street with the track alignment.

I think going for near-zero toe is helpful. Maybe try an alignment that isn't full track alignment but isn't full street either.

I've seen it posted a few times on here that a track alignment (-2.4* front camber or in that range) hasn't negatively affected tire life on the street. But running street alignment on the track will kill the tires pretty quick.

Mine's not daily driven, but have about 1,000 miles and 3 track days with a track alignment (-2.4* front -1.6 rear camber) and I haven't noticed any unusual wear on the inside edge.