[Artos]

OK...picked up a Proto wrench. Yeah, I'm a Snap-On guy but the company I work for is a disty for Proto & got it at cost. Big savings over the top shelf as little as I am going to use it. They do make good tools however.

Anyway, I got that scratch on the rim & got it fixed, but obviously they didn't torque.

My question is did any of you guys check your torque on these lugs when bought new...would you suggest just checking them all at the 135 - 140 range.

Did you notice if they were or weren't to to spec?? Just curious.

[Inspector 17]

Originally Posted by Artos

OK...picked up a Proto wrench. Yeah, I'm a Snap-On guy but the company I work for is a disty for Proto & got it at cost. Big savings over the top shelf as little as I am going to use it. They do make good tools however.

Anyway, I got that scratch on the rim & got it fixed, but obviously they didn't torque.

My question is did any of you guys check your torque on these lugs when bought new...would you suggest just checking them all at the 135 - 140 range.

Did you notice if they were or weren't to to spec?? Just curious.

I checked mine and all seemed very close to the 140 spec.

[Artos]

Originally Posted by Inspector 17

I checked mine and all seemed very close to the 140 spec.

Not mine...set the wrench to 135lbs.

On each wheel, only one or two lugs went straight to the click...all the others went about 1/2 turn or more before reaching.

All 4 safety/key lugs were under 135...just fyi for those that may want to check before attending any track days.

FWIW fellas...

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by JeromeS13

Keep in mind, most torque wrenches aren't accurate at the top and bottom 10%.

Unless its Calibrated..

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by tpavela

I should have put the link in. Here it is. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-2-...Wrench/3381202

This is the one I use as well. I tried Lowes digital one but it was usless as stated above. Returned it and got the one listed in the link.

Funny how the 5th Gen's list 110lbs for torque.....

[unavailablezl1]

Originally Posted by Artos

OK...picked up a Proto wrench. Yeah, I'm a Snap-On guy but the company I work for is a disty for Proto & got it at cost. Big savings over the top shelf as little as I am going to use it. They do make good tools however.

Anyway, I got that scratch on the rim & got it fixed, but obviously they didn't torque.

My question is did any of you guys check your torque on these lugs when bought new...would you suggest just checking them all at the 135 - 140 range.

Did you notice if they were or weren't to to spec?? Just curious.

So you got the Stanley-Proto?

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J6014...+torque+wrench

[Artos]

Yes sir...that is the one. I paid a little less, but that is a very fair price.

Stanley - Black & Decker is strong & has snagged the majority of the hand tool market with their various brands / acquisitions. It's a good wrench & just couldn't see paying twice as much for Snap-on. The shop had this one in stock from 50-250lbs & a 30-150lbs unit.

Like jerome stated, I was trying to keep the needs in the middle & and not use it on the extreme ends. I also want to check out the front sway bar torque since so many are having issues with the clunk. Sorta on the down range of my wrench as my understanding is 89lbs on the lower & 74lbs on the upper sway.

I mentioned to the shop manager that I also needed him to order torque screwdriver for my long gun / optic mounts. He walked away & pulled a Proto 6106 unit. Said it had been sitting on the shelf for over a year & gifted it to me.

I'll also likely pick up lower range torque 3/8 drive down the road...like stated, you really do need these from time to time & make a good addition to the 'box'.

Originally Posted by unavailablezl1

So you got the Stanley-Proto?

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J6014...+torque+wrench

[Crizmotek]

Originally Posted by unavailablezl1

For sure I think I need to 250ft/lb. After looking at everyone's suggestion, I found this one. I feel Snap-on is the best in my book, but I don't know CDI. Anyone have any experience with CDI?

These are made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-CD...+torque+wrench

I know this is an old post, but CDI is owned by snap-on. The snap-on torque wrenches are CDI, but with upgraded snap-on ratchets...per my snap-on dealer.

[Infern0]

Possibly a dumb question. That’s fine. But what determines the torque spec of the lugs? Is it the lugs themselves, thread pattern, the wheels, other? Just wondering what I need to adjust if I replace any of the above. Thanks.

[JB'sZL1]

None of the above...really, although they are ancillary.

The answer: make, model and year. Although stud size obviously limits torque.

For those wanting a simple way to install and remove lugnuts: I haven't looked back since getting my M18 Gen 2 impact wrench. Removes up to 1400 lbs. Real useful on 3/4" studs (torqued to 450-500 ft. lbs.).

[SoCal Smith]

I went around and noticed that one of my wheels was not at 140 and needed a 3/4 turn to hit 140lb. Really weird, only 3kmiles on her.

[Infern0]

Originally Posted by JB'sZL1

None of the above...really, although they are ancillary.

The answer: make, model and year. Although stud size obviously limits torque.

For those wanting a simple way to install and remove lugnuts: I haven't looked back since getting my M18 Gen 2 impact wrench. Removes up to 1400 lbs. Real useful on 3/4" studs (torqued to 450-500 ft. lbs.).

Interesting. I wouldn’t have expected that. Wasn’t the the bolt pattern and such the same from the 5th gen which didn’t require 140? So if I moved wheels over and hardware potentially (not certain that’s the same), that alone requiring more torque is hard to comprehend.

Do impact wrenches have a tightening torque spec listed? I didn’t see one on mine and wasn’t sure if it would strip something if I used it to tighten. Supposed to use manual wrench to tighten right? I have an Aircat 1000-TH.

[DangerZL1]

Originally Posted by Infern0

Do impact wrenches have a tightening torque spec listed? I didn’t see one on mine and wasn’t sure if it would strip something if I used it to tighten. Supposed to use manual wrench to tighten right? I have an Aircat 1000-TH.

I wouldn't use an impact wrench to tighten to final spec. It'd be a time saver to torque below spec with an impact set on a lower setting, but final spec should be done by a calibrated torque wrench. This is why I always ask how they torque the tires at tire shops, and I check them when I get home. Many times I've had lug nuts applied to about 140 ft lbs on my daily driver, when the spec is 80. This would be a huge problem if I had a flat and needed to use the factory wrench to remove the nuts.

[HDRDTD]

Originally Posted by DangerZL1

I wouldn't use an impact wrench to tighten to final spec. It'd be a time saver to torque below spec with an impact set on a lower setting, but final spec should be done by a calibrated torque wrench. This is why I always ask how they torque the tires at tire shops, and I check them when I get home. Many times I've had lug nuts applied to about 140 ft lbs on my daily driver, when the spec is 80. This would be a huge problem if I had a flat and needed to use the factory wrench to remove the nuts.

Use a torque stick. Each torque stick is calibrated for a specific torque. It looks like a simple 1/2" for your impact gun. At the specified torque, the torque stick 'gives' and stops turning. They work great (and are designed for use with) with an impact wrench.

If you prefer, you can buy one calibrated for just under your torque spec (they normally come in 10 ft/lb increments), then after using the torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts with your own torque wrench.

For display purposes only so you can see what I'm talking about (choose your own brand!)
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-pie...set-69870.html

Using a torque stick with an impact wrench makes torqueing the lug nuts much faster and with no worry that your new impact wrench will tighten them so much nobody will be able to get them off.