How heavy is your underdrive pulley?

[GR8WHITE1]

Hey guys I have been buying parts I need before my cam swap and just got my fluidampr underdrive pulley in and it's one nice piece of hardware but damn this things a beast. How much does the oem and other aftermarket pulleys weigh? I chose this pulley for a couple of reasons. First it doesn't underdrive the ac cause I live in the high desert and second with the viscous fluid inside it truly dampens the harmonics that I believe will be exaggerated with the cam.

[christianchevell]

Yes it is heavier than the stock pulley, I run this one for piece of mind with my cam as I know its the best around for any engine. And when I went online to the Summit site to find the right belts the instructions showed two gates belts numbers I believe well one was wrong compared to the proper length shown needed and I had to swap one belt as it would not fit as the gates number was wrong for that length. I was going to do a TSP balancer but sold it instead as my tuner said it looked cheap and well..... I agreed and it was not quite as heavy as this one, and yes you have to cut the belts off so you need two new belts......

And I use driven racing oil and recommend doing a break in with br30 and using ls30 for oil for a cam as that's what I did, and I use 7.375 pushrods I specified my size from TSP as that was my builder instructions and he is a mostly corvette g.m. engineer guru and he said he will measure to make sure they are right but of course he knows he does it all......... And said he always did a sort of break in insisting on draining the oil after dyno tuning with software and running it 20-30 minutes from 2-3k on all ls engines even though everyone believes its a roller it does not need it..... 1 in 10 engines failed on the engine stand for joe gibbs with out break in on hydraulic roller cam ls engines for nascar..... after driven developed br30 and they used it to break in the cams it change to 1 in 40......

Does that interest me...hell yah when I was researching every dime I was going to spend, because my daily has to rock and roll the rest of my life and not leave me stranded and kick A and take names without breaking down as that's what my old school SBC builds did well into the hundreds of thousands of miles. If that does not interest you and you just want to use any old oil and not break in a cam well its o.k. and it may last a long time as its a roller.......... then again if it were a flat tappet cam it would eat itself inside twenty minutes if not broken in right and cave in all the hydraulic lifters where they touch the lobes of the cam and spread shredded metal through every bearing and ring in a engine...... and eventually the engine would stumble and die and maybe lock up as it lost the right valve lash and maybe bent a pushrod or two and worse....... I know I used to build my own engines, lash my own valves, install my own heads. cams, etc etc etc..... And that's exactly why I went to a pro to help and do the mod for my cars engine as I knew it was critical it be done right and frankly it was not that spendy. Anyway good luck to you, I would have had to buy hundred of dollars in specialty tools to DIY this and had fun with the headers, in a angled car port or the street where I live now with no garage and then would have towed it have it tuned first rather than limp it to a shop and pray its o.k. on the way.

[trans665]

fyi....you don't need to cut no belts. .u can re use the a/c belt no prob....just work it off and work it on

[JCunningham]

it might be fine it might not. Mine split right after i got it dynoed.

[376LS3]

Originally Posted by christianchevell

Yes it is heavier than the stock pulley, I run this one for piece of mind with my cam as I know its the best around for any engine. And when I went online to the Summit site to find the right belts the instructions showed two gates belts numbers I believe well one was wrong compared to the proper length shown needed and I had to swap one belt as it would not fit as the gates number was wrong for that length. I was going to do a TSP balancer but sold it instead as my tuner said it looked cheap and well..... I agreed and it was not quite as heavy as this one, and yes you have to cut the belts off so you need two new belts......

And I use driven racing oil and recommend doing a break in with br30 and using ls30 for oil for a cam as that's what I did, and I use 7.375 pushrods I specified my size from TSP as that was my builder instructions and he is a mostly corvette g.m. engineer guru and he said he will measure to make sure they are right but of course he knows he does it all......... And said he always did a sort of break in insisting on draining the oil after dyno tuning with software and running it 20-30 minutes from 2-3k on all ls engines even though everyone believes its a roller it does not need it..... 1 in 10 engines failed on the engine stand for joe gibbs with out break in on hydraulic roller cam ls engines for nascar..... after driven developed br30 and they used it to break in the cams it change to 1 in 40......

Does that interest me...hell yah when I was researching every dime I was going to spend, because my daily has to rock and roll the rest of my life and not leave me stranded and kick A and take names without breaking down as that's what my old school SBC builds did well into the hundreds of thousands of miles. If that does not interest you and you just want to use any old oil and not break in a cam well its o.k. and it may last a long time as its a roller.......... then again if it were a flat tappet cam it would eat itself inside twenty minutes if not broken in right and cave in all the hydraulic lifters where they touch the lobes of the cam and spread shredded metal through every bearing and ring in a engine...... and eventually the engine would stumble and die and maybe lock up as it lost the right valve lash and maybe bent a pushrod or two and worse....... I know I used to build my own engines, lash my own valves, install my own heads. cams, etc etc etc..... And that's exactly why I went to a pro to help and do the mod for my cars engine as I knew it was critical it be done right and frankly it was not that spendy. Anyway good luck to you, I would have had to buy hundred of dollars in specialty tools to DIY this and had fun with the headers, in a angled car port or the street where I live now with no garage and then would have towed it have it tuned first rather than limp it to a shop and pray its o.k. on the way.

WTF does the last 2 paragraphs have anything to do with an UDP? You've preached Joe Gibbs enough dude......move on.