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Old 02-12-2018, 09:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
The reason I run a true slick is that they don't shock the drive train like a drag radial. Remember the sidewall on a drag radial is more like a street tire the hooks hard at the track. I've not broken any parts so far with the slicks and hopefully I won't even with another 50 to 60 rwhp this year. I could have gotten more runs out of the slicks but I was ready to add more power and thought I'd start off with new slicks this year. I actually had over 140 runs total, 130 or so with the supercharger. Can't beat that in my opinion.
For sure on the driveline shock, the DR really puts it to your axles and driveshaft. The slick is much more forgiving and still hooks up well. It’s much better suited for the track no question.
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
...
It will hook up and flex out of the hole, it can catch itself while spinning from getting hotter and sticky so you don't have to really pedal the car like you would on a radial. Yours not having a lot of sidewall may not flex as much, and may not be lose on the big end like the Hoosier was for me on my older car.
...
It's also going to heat up a lot different than the radial does.
I like the idea of not having to pedal the launch as much. That's probably going to throw me off at first. I've developed an instinct to lift the throttle slightly when it starts to spin - just enough to hook in the power band. It's really tough to get it just right. My hope is that I'll be able to apply more power much sooner without activating that blood-sucking torque limiter.

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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
...
I have an M6 as well and getting all that car at once is certainly different than the auto. The TM system on my car is very mild compared to the stock set up because it's been tuned out of it, but your car probably pulls all sorts of timing from you off the line just from that over active TM system! It's frustrating haha. Tuning it is nothing like it was on the LS platform. You can't just go in and shut that off anymore. You have to trick it with funny air tables and things of that nature (I don't know exactly because I didn't tune this car.)
The intrusive torque management is the single most disappointing thing about the ZL1. I love the car but this is so frustrating... Still, I do enjoy a challenge. It's certainly been that trying to work around the TM.

Thanks for sharing your ideas!

--Cal
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Old 02-13-2018, 07:29 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
The reason I run a true slick is that they don't shock the drive train like a drag radial. Remember the sidewall on a drag radial is more like a street tire the hooks hard at the track. I've not broken any parts so far with the slicks and hopefully I won't even with another 50 to 60 rwhp this year. I could have gotten more runs out of the slicks but I was ready to add more power and thought I'd start off with new slicks this year. I actually had over 140 runs total, 130 or so with the supercharger. Can't beat that in my opinion.
Yeah, I get that. Flexing releases the energy more gradually. I remember some of your posts from early last year describing the difference. Are you running bias ply or radial slicks? I'm sticking with radial construction because I don't want to have to buy a separate set of wheels & bias ply tires for the front. I've driven cars with mixed bias/radial street tires before and it's not stable.

It's been tough finding slicks to fit my wheel size, though. I might have gone with a 27" tire but there's not a lot of choices for me in height and tread width. I'm going to make the best of what I've got for now. I've got a feeling I'll be seeing improved 60' times on these Hoosiers, though.

Wow! 140 runs could span 2 seasons. You must not do extended burnouts, huh?

Thanks for sharing your experience and insights.

--Cal
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Old 02-17-2018, 01:20 AM   #18
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New Hoosiers Mounted, Balanced, Installed, and Tested

Finally got the other Hoosier delivered late Thu. Had them both mounted and balanced today. Got home and found the mechanic gouged my paint near the valve stem (see tire on left below). Grrrh! Called them up and they want me to bring it in so they can see it.

So, I really want to see how these 26" babies feel and test whether Stabilitrak or ABS will complain.
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First things first... Let the sun warm them up (80 F today). Then aired them up to max pressure (44 PSI) and measured their circumference. Then drop to operating pressure and measured again. Final measurement should have both at the same circumference. I don't have a soft tape measure for some reason so I used stout twine and my Stanley tape measure, marking each measurement with felt markers.

Everything I used is pictured here:
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So I mark the start point on the string. Then I wrap it around the middle, making sure it's straight, and mark the other end of the string where it lines up with the first mark. Repeat for the other tire. Then I aired down to 21 PSI and measured both again.
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Now I have 3 marks.
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I got my grandson to help measure
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At 44 PSI left measured 81 5/16" and right measured 81 9/16". At minimum of 21 PSI both measured 81 1/8". Perfect!
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Time to install them and go for a ride...

First, let me point out that my painted wheels came with fully painted lugs. Both had paint in the bevels - not good for proper torque. I'd recommend scraping and sanding off all paint from the lug mating surfaces.

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Here's my wheel R&R tools:
Air and battery 1/2" drive impact wrenches. 2" HD extension, 3/4" and 7/8" impact sockets, 50-250 lb ft torque wrench, TPMS learn tool, dial-indicator pressure guage, air fill hose, abrasive pad for cleaning lug mating surfaces, and my trusty pocket journal. (not shown: aluminum racing jack & air tank).
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Okay, so the last thing to do is "re-learn" the TPMS so it knows I've got 2 new tires. Unfortunately, GM didn't see fit to give us the ability to record more then 1 set at a time. If you don't do this you'll get pesky warnings and your tire pressure readings in the DIC will be wrong.

1. For my M6 to power up without starting the motor I hold the start button for several seconds. You can do this with the motor off or on.
2. From the Info menu press your up-arrow 2 times to show the tire pressure display.
3. Hold down [SEL] button for 3-sec until you hear a double horn-beep.
4. For each wheel starting with left (driver side) front, position the tool resting on the rim while pointing the antenna toward the valve stem. Then press and hold the button until you hear a single beep.
5. Repeat for each tire in this sequence: right-front, right-rear, left-rear
6. There will be a pause after the single beep on the last tire. Then you'll hear two beeps again, indicating success.
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Now, I'm finally ready to try and burn those nubs off. I think the Hoosiers look fabulous!
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Because I only use these at the track, I put the car in "Track" mode with TPM mode "Race". I warmed it up and took it out on the highway.

Wow! I really can't make it spin the tires on asphalt no matter what I do.

Rev limiter activates at 61 MPH (6600 RPM) on the speedo in 1st gear now instead of 63. I think the actual speed was probably 58 or less. It does seem to accelerate more quickly with the shorter tires too.

Only warnings I got were the familiar low tire pressure warnings. No complaints from Stabilitrak, ABS, or any other systems.

The only problem I had was when I lowered my racing jack after installing the DRs. I had it centered behind the car, lifting on the diff case. When it came back down it touched the muffler and pushed it up a bit. Next time I'll have to come in at an angle.

--Cal
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Last edited by cwebster; 03-05-2018 at 06:57 AM. Reason: Fix TPMS re-learn procedure
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Old 02-17-2018, 07:33 AM   #19
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Man that tire is so short, it just doesn't fill that gap in the fender well. Good luck
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:04 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
Man that tire is so short, it just doesn't fill that gap in the fender well. Good luck
If it gets me faster I'll be happy.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:20 AM   #21
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I think your rim and tire look awesome man. I can't wait to hear what you think about them when you actually put them to the test. I have to agree with Laynlo though, it does look a little odd being so small in that wheel well. If it performs better, and that's what you're after, that is the only thing that matters. Keep us updated on how it does for you and if your 60' gets any better.
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Old 02-17-2018, 02:50 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Chevy71 View Post
I think your rim and tire look awesome man. I can't wait to hear what you think about them when you actually put them to the test. I have to agree with Laynlo though, it does look a little odd being so small in that wheel well. If it performs better, and that's what you're after, that is the only thing that matters. Keep us updated on how it does for you and if your 60' gets any better.
Yeah, I see what you mean. If it'll take a few 10ths off my 60ft it'll be worth it. Besides, when it squats most of that gap disappears anyway.

When I test drove them the car did seem to get up to speed faster. I didn't do 0-60 comparisons - just seat of the pants - so it could have been wishful thinking I suppose. I'm sure it'll go faster, just not sure how much. Anything's better than those nose-dive 2.0 60's.

Weather forecast for tomorrow calls for 59° to 62° with moderate humidity (53-45% dropping) and rising barometer (30.33-30.36 hg). That should be give us some low DA's (-366 to -141 ft). Even if it turns out a bit warmer than expected it'll be a good day.

I'll definitely post an update.

--Cal
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Old 02-17-2018, 05:27 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
The reason I run a true slick is that they don't shock the drive train like a drag radial. Remember the sidewall on a drag radial is more like a street tire the hooks hard at the track. I've not broken any parts so far with the slicks and hopefully I won't even with another 50 to 60 rwhp this year. I could have gotten more runs out of the slicks but I was ready to add more power and thought I'd start off with new slicks this year. I actually had over 140 runs total, 130 or so with the supercharger. Can't beat that in my opinion.
Yes and that's why I run the 17/10/28 Hoosier's with my M6.

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Old 02-17-2018, 05:29 PM   #24
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You will notice a little wiggle in the top end, but your use to it, your good to go!


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Old 02-17-2018, 06:11 PM   #25
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Cal, I love your posts! As to the looks, who cares, your not running for show, only for go. Good luck and anxious to see your results, as I too was thinking 26" tire.
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:14 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
The reason I run a true slick is that they don't shock the drive train like a drag radial. Remember the sidewall on a drag radial is more like a street tire the hooks hard at the track. I've not broken any parts so far with the slicks and hopefully I won't even with another 50 to 60 rwhp this year. I could have gotten more runs out of the slicks but I was ready to add more power and thought I'd start off with new slicks this year. I actually had over 140 runs total, 130 or so with the supercharger. Can't beat that in my opinion.
Are you running a stock driveline or have you updated your driveshaft and axles?
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Old 02-17-2018, 08:33 PM   #27
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You will notice a little wiggle in the top end, but your use to it, your good to go!


Yup, but I didn't like it on the MT's. With just a little gust of wind it felt like it was gonna go sideways. These shorter sidewalls should minimize that, though.

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Cal, I love your posts! As to the looks, who cares, your not running for show, only for go. Good luck and anxious to see your results, as I too was thinking 26" tire.
Thanks man. LOL, Well maybe a little for show. At the track, however, it's the GO that's more important.


BTW,
I just found out the track is not having street drags or T&T tomorrow. They're using this weekend as the rain date for their St. Valentines Day Classic tournament. It was rained out last weekend. Daggon-it! Guess I have to wait for the next weather window then. Maybe I'll go as a spectator.

--Cal
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Old 02-27-2018, 06:57 PM   #28
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That tire looks goofy in there.
Don't waste your time and money on a short tire.
You need a tall tire with some sidewall to 60'
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