Help needed with AR 1 7/8" header install - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

OneBadZ/28 · 10-27-2017, 03:50 AM

Any pointers for installing American Racing 1 7/8" cat less headers before I tackle the project. I do have a 2 post rotary lift to help. Do I reuse the factory bolts or use the supplied ones from AR? Which gasket do I need-Reuse factory/use supplied one from AR/buy a new factory one or which aftermarket one? Any time saving fitment pointers? Finally which exact O2 extenders to buy-not going to tune the car right now. Thanks in advance for your time and help-my poor hands thank you.

Stephen12ZL1 · 10-27-2017, 06:07 AM

the passenger side is way easy and no issue. There isn’t even a dipstick tube to get in the way. The driver’s side is a slight PITA as the factory oil cooler is in the way. I had to remove the factory cooler temporarily to place the header and wrestle everything together. I used the factory header bolts and factory gaskets. Remove the spark plugs! I also had to disconnect the steering shaft to install the driver’s side header. I did this stuff with the car on ramps. The 02 harness extenders come with the headers.

acammer · 10-27-2017, 08:01 AM

I'll second all that. Reuse factory bolts, factory gaskets, and remove spark plugs. Steering shaft was the only thing I've had to move when doing headers on a 5th gen. Some times you can even snake by that, depending on the header.

frankwjr · 10-27-2017, 09:20 AM

+3...remove, inspect/replace spark plugs!!! I re-used bolts and gasket, also used a O2 extender on the FRONT sensors only...dynoSteve's tune takes care of all the rest...good luck!

Olddudesrule · 10-27-2017, 09:40 AM

+4. My experience was just like Franks, down to the Dyno Steve tune. All good, step by step. Getting the 02 sensors out of the OEM pipes took a little time, but patience and some PB Blaster helped.

OneBadZ/28 · 10-27-2017, 11:01 AM

Thanks guys. I remember some on here talking of a O2 simulator to keep the CEL light from coming on until you have the car tuned. Which brand/model of those do I get? I just need two for the rear-correct? I could not see the pics in the thread. I am waiting on a tune until a cam install down the road. Don't know how long I can resist that nasty lope sound-trying to hold out to keep the warranty intact. Thanks again for the help.

*mlee* · 10-27-2017, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OneBadZ/28

Thanks guys. I remember some on here talking of a O2 simulator to keep the CEL light from coming on until you have the car tuned. Which brand/model of those do I get? I just need two for the rear-correct? I could not see the pics in the thread. I am waiting on a tune until a cam install down the road. Don't know how long I can resist that nasty lope sound-trying to hold out to keep the warranty intact. Thanks again for the help.

Just the two rear, but this mod really isn't much except noise without the tune. By the time your warranty is up you'll be thinking about a new Camaro. Just have fun with it now...

Headers without tune just isn't worth it IMHO

Hellfighter · 10-27-2017, 11:41 AM

Be-careful about gasket re-use, i had a close shop do my header install but i bought oem GM metal gaskets, they said the old ones were pretty worn out and would rather use new, cause they had customers complain about leaks on the OEM re use in the past.

So just inspect them well i guess.

Hellfighter · 10-27-2017, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mlee

Just the two rear, but this mod really isn't much except noise without the tune. By the time your warranty is up you'll be thinking about a new Camaro. Just have fun with it now...

Headers without tune just isn't worth it IMHO

My warranty been up , but i like my car, just not the boring color

. Wish it was the new metallic blue from these 2017 camaro's.

Russell James · 10-27-2017, 06:01 PM

some time savers:

Make sure exhaust is very hot before trying to crack the O2 sensors loose. Run engine, drive, get on hoist get wrench ready, run engine again, shut off. While the pipes are scorching hot, crack the O2's loose. Then let everything cool off before removing and preceding. Cold pipes will have a death grip on O2 sensors and it will rip the threads right off, hot they will crack loose nicely.

Take the plugs and plug wires off. You will crack the plugs if left in.

Both sides you can lower the manifold and cats down still bolted together, so don't bother unbolting them. I tie them up to something topside, get all the bolts out, then go under grab them, cut the rope.

All the ARH's I've done, needed to unbolt the steering shaft. It's no biggie, but make sure the steering wheel is locked and does not get turned while the shaft is disconnected. Just cut the boot off the joint, pitch it. Take the pinch bolt out, and push the steering rod up into the column a bit and off the the side out of the way.

On the passenger side there are some studs with nuts holding the heat shielding on. Take a sawzall and trim those studs down to the nuts. Gives more room and those studs can scratch the headers all up. I put blue tape all over the outside of my headers while putting them up to keep the coating from getting scratched up.

Either bolts are fine, just put a drop of blue loctite on. New OE gaskets.

Clarkstar · 10-27-2017, 06:04 PM

I reused bolts and gaskets...I did not have to remove steering shaft..but it was tight...

olblue75 · 10-27-2017, 08:18 PM

What are you going to do with your factory cats?

Clarkstar · 10-27-2017, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75

What are you going to do with your factory cats?

If your interested, I posted mine in the V8 section

olblue75 · 10-29-2017, 05:16 PM

The LS3 an LS7 cat flanges have a slight flange orientation.

10-27-2017, 03:50 AM	#1
OneBadZ/28 Drives: 2014 Z/28 Red/AC #56 Join Date: May 2015 Location: Madison, MS Posts: 36	Help needed with AR 1 7/8" header install Any pointers for installing American Racing 1 7/8" cat less headers before I tackle the project. I do have a 2 post rotary lift to help. Do I reuse the factory bolts or use the supplied ones from AR? Which gasket do I need-Reuse factory/use supplied one from AR/buy a new factory one or which aftermarket one? Any time saving fitment pointers? Finally which exact O2 extenders to buy-not going to tune the car right now. Thanks in advance for your time and help-my poor hands thank you.

10-27-2017, 06:07 AM	#2
Stephen12ZL1 Drives: '21 ZLE A10 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Mechanicsville, VA Posts: 6,809	the passenger side is way easy and no issue. There isn’t even a dipstick tube to get in the way. The driver’s side is a slight PITA as the factory oil cooler is in the way. I had to remove the factory cooler temporarily to place the header and wrestle everything together. I used the factory header bolts and factory gaskets. Remove the spark plugs! I also had to disconnect the steering shaft to install the driver’s side header. I did this stuff with the car on ramps. The 02 harness extenders come with the headers. __________________ '21 ZLE A10 Wild Cherry PDR 2:00.78 VIR Full 10.68@131.69 1.68 60' '17 ZL1 A10 Mosaic Black PDR/Nav 2:03.08 VIR Full 11.003@129.2 1.75 (sold) '15 Z/28 #325 Black a/c & stereo. 2:10.1 VIR Full (sold) '12 ZL1 A6 Black 10.52@131 1.55 60' 2:13 VIR Full (sold)

10-27-2017, 08:01 AM	#3
acammer GPI Sales Consultant Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Weedsport, NY Posts: 2,794 View My Garage	I'll second all that. Reuse factory bolts, factory gaskets, and remove spark plugs. Steering shaft was the only thing I've had to move when doing headers on a 5th gen. Some times you can even snake by that, depending on the header. __________________ GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph. *Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message!*

10-27-2017, 09:20 AM	#4
frankwjr Drives: 2010 SS 2SS M6 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Smithsburg, Md. Posts: 2,445	+3...remove, inspect/replace spark plugs!!! I re-used bolts and gasket, also used a O2 extender on the FRONT sensors only...dynoSteve's tune takes care of all the rest...good luck! __________________ 2010 SS 2SS M6 - Tune by RDP dynoSteve!(Woot) - Daily Driver - *150K!* - All work by me...

10-27-2017, 09:40 AM	#5
Olddudesrule Resident nomad Drives: 2014 Summit White 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 1,765	+4. My experience was just like Franks, down to the Dyno Steve tune. All good, step by step. Getting the 02 sensors out of the OEM pipes took a little time, but patience and some PB Blaster helped. __________________ Sold: 2007 Z06 2002 Viper GTS/ACR 2003 Z06 1965 FFR Cobra 2012 Nissan 370Z ADM LSA Stage II, Roto-Fab CAI, Kooks LTH/HFC's, Phastek CC, ported TB, Mishimoto radiator and oil cooler, BC Racing ER Series CO's, JPSS 32mm Black Magic rear bar, JPSS front inserts, R1 Concepts Premier slotted rotors/Goodrich SS lines, Schroth ASM harness, MGW flatstick, Brey-Krause HB, Tuned by NicD, at Cordes Performance Racing.

10-27-2017, 11:01 AM	#6
OneBadZ/28 Drives: 2014 Z/28 Red/AC #56 Join Date: May 2015 Location: Madison, MS Posts: 36	Thanks guys. I remember some on here talking of a O2 simulator to keep the CEL light from coming on until you have the car tuned. Which brand/model of those do I get? I just need two for the rear-correct? I could not see the pics in the thread. I am waiting on a tune until a cam install down the road. Don't know how long I can resist that nasty lope sound-trying to hold out to keep the warranty intact. Thanks again for the help.

10-27-2017, 11:41 AM	#8
Hellfighter Drives: 2013 Black ZL1 Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Sugar Land/Texas Posts: 2,354 View My Garage	Be-careful about gasket re-use, i had a close shop do my header install but i bought oem GM metal gaskets, they said the old ones were pretty worn out and would rather use new, cause they had customers complain about leaks on the OEM re use in the past. So just inspect them well i guess. __________________

10-27-2017, 06:01 PM	#10
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	some time savers: Make sure exhaust is very hot before trying to crack the O2 sensors loose. Run engine, drive, get on hoist get wrench ready, run engine again, shut off. While the pipes are scorching hot, crack the O2's loose. Then let everything cool off before removing and preceding. Cold pipes will have a death grip on O2 sensors and it will rip the threads right off, hot they will crack loose nicely. Take the plugs and plug wires off. You will crack the plugs if left in. Both sides you can lower the manifold and cats down still bolted together, so don't bother unbolting them. I tie them up to something topside, get all the bolts out, then go under grab them, cut the rope. All the ARH's I've done, needed to unbolt the steering shaft. It's no biggie, but make sure the steering wheel is locked and does not get turned while the shaft is disconnected. Just cut the boot off the joint, pitch it. Take the pinch bolt out, and push the steering rod up into the column a bit and off the the side out of the way. On the passenger side there are some studs with nuts holding the heat shielding on. Take a sawzall and trim those studs down to the nuts. Gives more room and those studs can scratch the headers all up. I put blue tape all over the outside of my headers while putting them up to keep the coating from getting scratched up. Either bolts are fine, just put a drop of blue loctite on. New OE gaskets.

10-27-2017, 06:04 PM	#11
Clarkstar Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Ixonia wi Posts: 1,456	I reused bolts and gaskets...I did not have to remove steering shaft..but it was tight... __________________ 2013 1le- Katech 416 short block, TSP custom grind cam, LOD intake, cnc heads by F.ED., Nick William's 102mm T.B., CORN fed, Pedders coilovers. Performance street alingnment by Justin at Lake Country Alignment and dyno tune by Late Model Throttle. 603 h.p. 495 ft lbs tq.

10-27-2017, 08:18 PM	#12
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	What are you going to do with your factory cats? __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

10-29-2017, 05:16 PM	#14
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	The LS3 an LS7 cat flanges have a slight flange orientation. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.