[Serpentsminion]

Yeah, it is extreme. But then, so are the wretched, overzealous chimes. I'd like to meet the people that come up with some of the annoying sh!tty features in our consumer electronics, as well as the dolts that approve them for production. "So, what can we do to this super-cool car we came up with that will completely drive the owners bat-sh!T?" "I've got it- so this chime and alert architecture..."

My phone even pisses me off every weekend when I'm out riding my motorcycle and have my headphones in for music. Every pre-set number of playing hours, the phone will auto-drop my volume by half and stop playing music until I physically dig the damned thing out of my pocket and touch the "Ok" prompt that shows on the screen, acknowledging the intrusive warning about listening volume. Which I can't do while I'm going 70 and holding onto the bars. So F*** Samsung too. The car even does similar- twice a week when I get in that thing, the bluetooth won't connect and music won't start until I touch the 'Ok' prompt that interrupts me telling me how taking my eyes off the road will get me killed. They need to stop designing sh!t to do our thinking for us in their modern technological 'save the stupid consumers' design crusades. Let Darwin sort all that shit out and stop making the rest of us angry. I mean, I'm certain that somewhere- design engineers have actually gotten AWARDS for coming up with and implementing all the garbage quirks that p!ss all of us off every single day.


The features... been driving vehicles for thirty-five years without all that stuff... and have been fine. but I will research your suggestion, though based mostly on the alleged difficulty and cost of tearing out the head unit. The hatred is strong, but the wallet cannot abide, unfortunately. The sheer cost of uprooting the dash/whatever in that car seems to be a ridiculous discouragement it seems will have to yield to, with the more I read.

So, it looks like the towel is getting thrown. :/

[Warsteiner]

I have the PAC Amp Pro in my car and I can confirm that with that devices you can turn the chimes down. It also bypasses all of the other internals of the Stereo system. It pretty much gives you a clean signal from the factory head unit to RCA jacks that you can then run to any AMP or DSP you want. There is an included knob that allows you to turn the chime volume up or down that can be mounted or you can do like I did and just put it in your glove box.

Link: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-gm61

Also you can pick this up cheap if you just keep your eye on EBAY and Amazon. I got mine for half price on sale.

[Serpentsminion]

Thanks much for the link and description- I will surely look into this.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Warsteiner

I have the PAC Amp Pro in my car and I can confirm that with that devices you can turn the chimes down. It also bypasses all of the other internals of the Stereo system. It pretty much gives you a clean signal from the factory head unit to RCA jacks that you can then run to any AMP or DSP you want. There is an included knob that allows you to turn the chime volume up or down that can be mounted or you can do like I did and just put it in your glove box.

Link: https://catalog.pac-audio.com/catalo...faces/ap4-gm61

Also you can pick this up cheap if you just keep your eye on EBAY and Amazon. I got mine for half price on sale.

Note that the one you linked is for cars with the Bose stereo. They may make a version for non-Bose - I don't know. I also don't know if the OP has Bose or not. Just pointing out that it makes a difference in which integration unit he buys.

[Serpentsminion]

Not Bose- also noted, Thanks

[Serpentsminion]

So, after a few more days of researching what I could find in a few forum threads, and checking out a couple suggestions from people who responded, it's looking more and more like I just might be f**ked. I won't spend 3500-4k to have every panel torn out of the inside of the car to get all the rewiring done to get an isolated aftermarket system. So I will have to use the existing wiring to the speakers I want to replace and I'm going to need to keep the stock head unit and receiver module by the glovebox and just try to do all the work at the junction of the stock amp in the trunk.

So, goal being simpler, I just want to replace the dash and door speakers with 5" and 6x9's (use existing wiring) and add a sub and my own amp. I did catch a suggestion for a sub/box that will work in the convertible trunk.

The huge hitch here seems to be the audio processing I need to have. The PAC AP4-GM61 looks like it won't work on a non-Bose system and the AudioControl LC7i Line Converter was the other gadget I saw in a different thread for converting the stock's digital to analog for RCA input to an aftmkt amp, but it seems there is no harness that exists yet and it all has to be done by diagram/manual splicing... which, I mean I could do if I had the right pinout diagrams? I would rather not risk frying something.

I have also read that the chimes sound can also be amplified along with everything else if the right setup is not used. But again, I have non-Bose... so does anybody know of a processor that will work like the PAC AP4 for the standard amp and filter out the alert/chime channel?

This is all really damned aggravating and is making me hate and despise modern integrated consumer electronics engineering even more. So pissed off that they make sh!t so difficult and give no options in their stock function designs. i just taste discontent everytime I think about this garbage lately and

it.

is.

F**ING.

bitter.

I just want to piss in the mailbox of every modern automotive electronics design engineer that had a hand in making me hate something so much about a car that I otherwise really enjoy in nearly all other aspects.

[Warsteiner]

I know the amp pro will not work for you but you may be able to try this out:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541APH...n-Harness.html.

at least that will give you a harness with the wires you need. I don't know though if the wiring is different for the non-bose. I think it is the same connectors.

[algo]

I think the AmpPro will work in the 1SS system. In the above link, under compatibility, it says if you have IO5 or IO6 RPO code on the silver sticker in your trunk , it will work. The 1SS system uses Bose speakers, I think AmpPro classifies both systems as 'Bose'.

[Serpentsminion]

Really-? Thanks much for the tip! I will check that out-

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by algo

The 1SS system uses Bose speakers, I think AmpPro classifies both systems as 'Bose'.

I don't think that's true. The non-Bose system has same-size speakers in the doors, dash, and rear side panels as the Bose. However, the Bose system also has a center speaker in the dash and (I think) 6x9s in the rear deck. More importantly, all the Bose speakers are nominal 2-ohm speakers, whereas the non-Bose speakers are 4-ohm units. But I doubt any of that matters, because the interfaces we're talking about will never see speaker loads - they will only see the amp input loads. What probably matters is whether the signals coming out of the Radio unit beside the glove box are the same. I have no idea.

I agree that the web page there is ambiguous as to whether it works only for actual Bose systems vs any IO5/IO6 system. It also doesn't say it will allow you to attenuate the chimes if you want - it only says it allows you to keep them. If it were me, I'd call them and ask those specific questions before ordering it.

[Zr8000]

You could also find an amp that will run off blue tooth and connect your phone to it and play through that. I don’t know if it ever became a thing but I think it was jbl that had it back when you couldn’t play a phone through a car

[Msquared]

Bluetooth demonstrably degrades audio quality, though. Plus, it won't help the OP attenuate his chimes.

[Zr8000]

Ok found this out recently. The alpine sound processors can run Stand alone off your phone by blue tooth And have their own master volume control. They have an amplifier built into them or you can so you could run a new set of wires to the speakers in the doors and un plug them all together from the car. They do have the ability to run after market amps as well. The down fall is they are 1400 bucks But it would isolate the stereo from the car.