05-13-2020, 11:11 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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HVAC blowing hot air on passenger side
Started last fall before winter hit where regardless of where the dual climate control was set on that's side it would blow hot air. Sometimes it would work as normal, but noticed yesterday it was hot again. Fingers crossed it's just one of the temperature sensors as the alternative is pulling the whole dash and tie bar out. I do have a vxdiag so im hoping I can check the sensors before digging in too deep.
Has anyone else been into theirs or even has this issue? Car is out of warranty and I live a 4 hour drive from any dealership. |
05-13-2020, 11:13 AM | #2 |
Shifts under load
Drives: 2020 Camaro 1SS 1LE rally green Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Fuquay-Varina, NC
Posts: 1,295
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In my experience of being a service advisor for 22 years, that's usually a sign the freon is low due to a leak. The other issue could be a blend air door problem. Sometimes it's a software fix, sometimes a door control is broken. Most often I see low freon causing that issue.
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24 Audi S3 prem plus, sport package
HPDE - southeast - JTI- solo, PCA- blue. 22 Suzuki GSX-S 1000GT blue |
05-13-2020, 01:14 PM | #3 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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Quote:
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05-13-2020, 02:46 PM | #4 |
Shifts under load
Drives: 2020 Camaro 1SS 1LE rally green Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Fuquay-Varina, NC
Posts: 1,295
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Nope, low freon can and will cause it to blow hot out the passenger side. See it all the time.
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24 Audi S3 prem plus, sport package
HPDE - southeast - JTI- solo, PCA- blue. 22 Suzuki GSX-S 1000GT blue |
05-15-2020, 07:01 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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While fighting with my vcx nano to connect so I could update a couple modules. I was playing with my temp controls and noticed I could hear the servo motors moving when going from hot to cold.
After updating a few things and quite a few ignition cycles i started up the car and after a few mins noticed that the passenger side was not blowing cold air like it should. I shut off of the engine turned the ignition on to see if I could hear the temp blend door servo moving. Turning the temp all the way to hi then dropping it to bellow 75ish I could hear the motor move a very small amount. If I kept it on low I could hear the motor making a very strange sound like it was trying to move every few seconds or so. This would go on and on if I let it. It was very quiet and hard to hear. After messing with the knob for a while it seemed to start moving all the way and if kept on low it would not make the reoccurring noise anymore. After looking on alldata I found if you pull down the glove box door (a royal pain) you can barely see the white lever and linkage for the passenger blend door. Moving it over and over it would work as it should. But the good news is if I have it stick or whatever it was doing I know how to see what might be going on maybe even manually help it if it infact does get stuck. If that's what needs to be replaced it looks like the whole dash and tie bar needs to be removed. Alldata has 11hrs for flat rate to change it out. NOT GOOD! |
05-15-2020, 09:59 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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finally was able to get the GDS2 to work on my car and came up with B0423-05 code: Passenger Air Temperature Actuator harness is open or shorted to battery
So that sucks! Ill try seeing if I can touch the connector to wiggle it and see if It will throw the code again as I was able to clear it since it wasnt active Last edited by squish72; 05-15-2020 at 10:30 PM. |
05-16-2020, 12:22 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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follow up for anyone in the future.
watching the data through GDS2 it would change as the wire was moved or pulled on the best I could its in a super tight space. I was able to work a ziptie in there and tie the wire from the actuator to another wire loom so it cant move around. Fingers crossed that will hold off pulling the whole dash out until the end of times. Will check back in if that dosent last |
05-16-2020, 01:01 PM | #8 |
Drives: '18 2SS/EU (+Recaros) M6 Red Hot Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Sweden
Posts: 260
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Just wanted to comment how great it is that you post this follow up. It is very likely going to help someone down the road.
I just recently got a VCX nano myself, just need to find a suitable laptop to install the GDS2 software on. How was your experience using it for troubleshooting? |
05-16-2020, 04:12 PM | #9 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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Quote:
Getting it working was a big pain in the ass. Multiple installing then uninstalling downloading different versions. My vcx would work with sps subscription that I paid the $40 and I was able to update all the modules in my car. It would never work with tech2 or gds2 because it would never come up as a mdi. I found a website that laid out a specific way and order to install things. Worked like a champ! If I have time I will try and post it here. Side note: I paid for the 3 days of gds2, the place that had the instructions had the download for the version that they said would work fires up offline and has 30 days on it here is where the install guide is that worked for me https://www.vxdiagshop.com/service/i...-software.html also every where you look says 32bit windows is recommended all of mine are 64 so might be why I had so much trouble Last edited by squish72; 05-16-2020 at 10:59 PM. |
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05-23-2020, 12:11 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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well today the car started blowing hot air again on the passenger side..... I pulled out the gds2 scanner and checked it to see the actuator was being told by the module to be at 200 (which I looks like it reads 0-200).
It didnt matter if I wiggled the wires this time. I unplugged the battery and noticed when I would hook it back up, the actuator would move! When you turn the temp ring on the vent (think it would start at 75 or 72) it would cycle the actuator from where it was to cold then max out back at 200 or full hot. I pulled the battery and then wiggled my hand in deep to unplug the motor. It wasnt easy but I was able to do it. Its now about in the middle of the road, not boiling hot air but warm air still comes out. So I have three possible thoughts on whats wrong. 1. The actuator took a crap (hard to believe since it still moves after hooking the battery up but maybe like the sensor that tells it where its actually at) 2. Theres a short in the wire harness (possible since wiggling the wires at the connector seemed to change the door position a few days ago) 3. The hvac control module or the brains of it all. (Im kinda leaning to this since the gds2 shows the control on the vent is changing when turned but the actuator is showing a constant maxed out setting) I ordered both the module and the actuator from rock auto for $120 shipped After typing this up it made me think that I completely forgot to check the temp sensors in the vents while all this was going on but I doubt it was one of them as it had a B0423-05 code which is short to battery or open on the actuator |
05-25-2020, 07:15 PM | #11 |
Aussie2SS
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Hot air right hand side vent - Australia
Hi All, I'm new to the forum, based in Australia, the car is a 2019 2SS. I have had the same issue since new, although down here it's the driver that's getting the hot air problem, RHD car. The dealer has tried but can't resolve the problem, the car is back at HSV which is as close as we get to the manufacturer down here, they import LHD complete cars from the states and remanufacture them as RHD. I'm interested in any success in a fix, if HSV manages to find one I'll share on the forum as well.
We're a little out of the way down here when it comes to Chev expertise, so any leads would be great. |
05-25-2020, 10:39 PM | #12 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS 8AT Join Date: May 2018
Location: Nevada
Posts: 358
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Quote:
I was going to just plug in the new actuator into the wire harness but on another forum i was advised not to as the actuator might not have a stop and it might just start spinning like crazy and end up breaking itself so I might have to tear into the new one when it comes and see how they work first. I could easily test the new control module first but then i wont be able to send it back and that would save me $80 I have a decent wire diagram of the system but its not very helpful in testing for what power it should have or being able to ohm things out. If I knew that stuff id be able to test things better to help zero in on the culprit. |
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05-27-2020, 09:36 PM | #13 |
Aussie2SS
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I hear you. I'm a little surprised at how the USA Camaro customers have to figure out these things on their own, seems like they have the same problem with dealers service levels and even company service, I thought it might have been a Aussie problem because Chev is not a mainstream brand down here. Mine's been in the HSV engineers for 4 days now, haven't had an update and that's a long time for engineers to be looking at a car's aircon system. Hopefully I'll get the car back this week, maybe, and fixed. I'll post the outcome on the forum.
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05-28-2020, 02:39 AM | #14 |
Aussie2SS
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Spoke with the engineers today and they found an actuator on the right hand side is faulty. The dealer had reset a fault code over 6 months ago, never found what caused the fault in the first place, the engineers said they could hear the actuator being noisey if they turned the fan speed down low manually, they also saw it created another fault code today after two days of trial and error running the car on and off in the factory and driving on the road. They are changing the actuator and then keeping the car until mid next week to make sure everything else is ruled out and tested. Once fixed I’ll see if they can write up what they tested and what to look for.
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