[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Duramacr1

Yep, what Yosh said , 17 to 18psi at the pits . Remove front swaybar and pan . With the burnout it will go up to 20psi and the car should hook off of idle . Your best 60ft will come off idle as well. Never heard of removing the rear swaybar on an IRS car , but it’s worth a try . I thought you keep to plant the tires better and keep the car launching straight .

I think Yosh said a lb or two shy in the pits so I will be 17 to 18 psi after the burn out which increases heat and pressure. I think I am going to disconnect the rear sway bar links to see how it hooks and goes down the track. I am thinking the same way regarding sway bars for the most part, the removal of the front allows easier front end lift for weight transfer and making the rear bar inactive would allow some rear squat and promote weight transfer? or by doing the rear does the chassis not push as hard down on the rear tires?

[Yosh6]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

or by doing the rear does the chassis not push as hard down on the rear tires?

Good question. I don't know. Removed the rear sway bar primarily for the weight reduction and as an experiment to see how the car would launch and go down the track. Removed the muffler and replaced with straight pipes. Along with the sway bar, that was -50 lb. Noticed nothing in driveability and it didn't hurt the 60' time, so I left the sway bar off. Hard to determine the effect of JUST removing the sway bar when you are making multiple changes. If it helped a half a hundredth, I'll take it; if it did nothing but weight loss, I'll take that, too. Now that the car is street driven, and has the muffler and sway bar installed, I just disconnect the links. Took two years to go from 1.6 sec. 60 ft. to 1.462 with no additional horsepower. It wasn't one thing, it was a whole lot of little things that add up. Experiment and document. Good luck!

[Duramacr1]

Yosh , I can try it today . I might be going to the track . I’ll take the tools. I just got a converter so still testing but it seems to launch off idle the best. I had a really bad 1-2 short shift problem . Car was shifting at 5300 which was making me shift before the 60ft . Was only getting 1.51 60fts . I got that fixed though and I’m going back today . Car ran 6.86 at almost 102 with an exhaust leak at the header collector . But I’ll run it with the swaybar twice and then disconnect the end links at the track and run it without . Like you said , if there is no difference , I can pull it at least for weight reduction

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Yosh6

Good question. I don't know. Removed the rear sway bar primarily for the weight reduction and as an experiment to see how the car would launch and go down the track. Removed the muffler and replaced with straight pipes. Along with the sway bar, that was -50 lb. Noticed nothing in driveability and it didn't hurt the 60' time, so I left the sway bar off. Hard to determine the effect of JUST removing the sway bar when you are making multiple changes. If it helped a half a hundredth, I'll take it; if it did nothing but weight loss, I'll take that, too. Now that the car is street driven, and has the muffler and sway bar installed, I just disconnect the links. Took two years to go from 1.6 sec. 60 ft. to 1.462 with no additional horsepower. It wasn't one thing, it was a whole lot of little things that add up. Experiment and document. Good luck!

Thank you, I will take the good luck all day every day. You do confirm though that replacing the rear springs that lowers the rear 1 inch did definitely lower your 60 ft times

[Yosh6]

Originally Posted by Duramacr1

Yosh , I can try it today . I might be going to the track . I’ll take the tools. I just got a converter so still testing but it seems to launch off idle the best. I had a really bad 1-2 short shift problem . Car was shifting at 5300 which was making me shift before the 60ft . Was only getting 1.51 60fts . I got that fixed though and I’m going back today . Car ran 6.86 at almost 102 with an exhaust leak at the header collector . But I’ll run it with the swaybar twice and then disconnect the end links at the track and run it without . Like you said , if there is no difference , I can pull it at least for weight reduction

Sorry, didn't see your post until this morning. Hope you got to go to the track and hope it went well. Brett @ Pray Performance coaches that 1) best STOCK converter (1,800 rpm stall speed) launch is "Off idle stomp" to try to flash the converter (to get 100-200 more rpm stall speed). 2) Further coaches try to hold the brakes until just a split second after the stomp to build a few RPM before the car moves. And, 3) Stage as shallow as humanly possible (best for lower E.T.; deep stage best for better reaction time - a la John Force). Different story for aftermarket converter. I got the CircleD 3-EX built to Brett's specs. He says for that one, (4,150 rpm stall speed) hold the brake hard and build as many RPM as you can without the car creeping, then stomp. He says try for 3,000 RPM; I can't do much more than 2,500. As always, a lot to experiment with.

[Yosh6]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

Thank you, I will take the good luck all day every day. You do confirm though that replacing the rear springs that lowers the rear 1 inch did definitely lower your 60 ft times

One more comment on your original question, psi. Generally speaking, and this comes from M/T, the better the traction, track prep, etc. the higher pressure you can and should run. My 18 psi starting point will get adjusted based on conditions. If the traction is there, it may end up at 20-22 psi. (target for on the line after the burnout).

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Duramacr1

Yosh , I can try it today . I might be going to the track . I’ll take the tools. I just got a converter so still testing but it seems to launch off idle the best. I had a really bad 1-2 short shift problem . Car was shifting at 5300 which was making me shift before the 60ft . Was only getting 1.51 60fts . I got that fixed though and I’m going back today . Car ran 6.86 at almost 102 with an exhaust leak at the header collector . But I’ll run it with the swaybar twice and then disconnect the end links at the track and run it without . Like you said , if there is no difference , I can pull it at least for weight reduction

Hey Duramacr1, I also am very curious on your test results regarding the rear bar disconnect please let me know also , and how did you fix your short 1-2 shift?

[JSH]

Are you guy's best times in Tour, Sport, or Track? And in manual or Auto?

I've at a track rental tomorrow, and plan to make my first run in Tour/manual, and launch from idle to WOT and make the 1/2 shift immediately as the car moves, and then kick it to auto. Tires at 18 psi before box. Regardless of your car, it takes a lot of runs to find its sweet spot.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by JSH

Are you guy's best times in Tour, Sport, or Track? And in manual or Auto?

I've at a track rental tomorrow, and plan to make my first run in Tour/manual, and launch from idle to WOT and make the 1/2 shift immediately as the car moves, and then kick it to auto. Tires at 18 psi before box. Regardless of your car, it takes a lot of runs to find its sweet spot.

I have a base LT1, so for me its touring mode and tap twice on the traction control button for competition mode and trans in auto mode. I have not made my first pass yet with the 305 45 17 MT ET street R tires and will be the first time flat footing the car off idle. Am curious on the 1-2 shift RPM, if its short after a couple of passes , I will probably manual shift 1-2 in manual mode and then immediately push the shifter over to auto mode.

[Yosh6]

Originally Posted by JSH

Are you guy's best times in Tour, Sport, or Track? And in manual or Auto?

I've at a track rental tomorrow, and plan to make my first run in Tour/manual, and launch from idle to WOT and make the 1/2 shift immediately as the car moves, and then kick it to auto. Tires at 18 psi before box. Regardless of your car, it takes a lot of runs to find its sweet spot.

What I do: Track, Manual (with TUTD tables populated so the tranny will shift on it's own; and, can choose to launch in 1st or 2nd) all nannies OFF ('16 A-8 - Hold Stabilatrak button down for about 10 sec. or until both T/C and Stabilatrak lights are on), all Torque Management disabled in transmission tune (careful with this one; get tuner help). I only use this setup at a drag strip with good traction and NEVER, EVER on the street. Two tunes: One for the street; one for the track.