[christisnt]

2019 Camaro SS Auto 10 Speed, just recently procharged with a D1x making 6 pounds. For Some reason when i get into about 4-5th gear at around 6000 rpm my check engine light starts flashing.



I have heard that it was a misfire, so i talked to my tuner and he had me check the spark plug wires, so i checked them and they seem fine.I really would like to refrain from removing the spark plugs because it definitely doesn't look like the funnest thing to do, its pretty crammed in the engine bay.


If my spark plugs are in good working condition, and so are my wires, what else could be the cause? Could the spark plug gap be messed up? Or is it a bad tune?

[Joshinator99]

What did you set your plug gap at? I'm assuming you're on 93 octane.

[christisnt]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

What did you set your plug gap at? I'm assuming you're on 93 octane.

I am running e85 give or take, it may very because you know how it goes, some gas stations have full e85, other have lower percetnages of ethanol in their e85. But I have no idea what the gap is at, i didn't install it. I took it to a shop an had it installed and tuned, then i had it retuned at a different place because the original shop i went to tuned it like garbage.

[MrChrisLS3]

Take it back to whoever did the last tune and have them see what's going on. At this point, it could be anything from a tune adjustment to your engine is getting ready to grenade itself. Get it checked out, and stay away from that 6K rpm mark until you do.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by christisnt

I am running e85 give or take, it may very because you know how it goes, some gas stations have full e85, other have lower percetnages of ethanol in their e85. But I have no idea what the gap is at, i didn't install it. I took it to a shop an had it installed and tuned, then i had it retuned at a different place because the original shop i went to tuned it like garbage.

Not a good answer...lol. See attached, that is what I would suggest you start with for plugs & gaps on a boosted car.

[christisnt]

Originally Posted by MrChrisLS3

Take it back to whoever did the last tune and have them see what's going on. At this point, it could be anything from a tune adjustment to your engine is getting ready to grenade itself. Get it checked out, and stay away from that 6K rpm mark until you do.

I’m probably going to check the spark plugs, and see if that makes any difference. I’ll replace them myself, and gap them myself, and if the issue still continues i will take it back. i’ve already gotten in contact with my tuner about this. i’m going to go ahead and change the plugs and have him look over it even if everything seems fine. what confuses me most, is that when i plug in a scanner, it doesn’t show any misfires or any codes regarding misfires.

[christisnt]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Not a good answer...lol. See attached, that is what I would suggest you start with for plugs & gaps on a boosted car.

Well i suppose i will just take out the plugs and check them. honestly though, i’ll probably just replace them while i’m at it and start from scratch. the first place i went to where i had the work done said they’d replace the spark plugs, but they also said the same thing about the injectors which they ended up not replacing. but regarding what you said, what exactly was it about what i said that wasn’t a good answer, i’m trying to figure out which part you’re referring to lmao, unless you meant all of what i said.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by christisnt

I have no idea what the gap is at, i didn't install it.

Originally Posted by christisnt

but regarding what you said, what exactly was it about what i said that wasn’t a good answer, i’m trying to figure out which part you’re referring to lmao, unless you meant all of what i said.

Sorry, I was referring to your comment about the spark plug gap. Use the plugs and gap in my post above for starters.

In regards to E85, that’s a good move. Pulls heat from the combustion chamber and lets you add timing. Just make sure your fuel system can keep up (it takes roughly 30% more E to make the same amount of power as 93). Low side pressure, high side pressure, and injector pulse width all need to be in line.

[christisnt]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Sorry, I was referring to your comment about the spark plug gap. Use the plugs and gap in my post above for starters.

In regards to E85, that’s a good move. Pulls heat from the combustion chamber and lets you add timing. Just make sure your fuel system can keep up (it takes roughly 30% more E to make the same amount of power as 93). Low side pressure, high side pressure, and injector pulse width all need to be in line.

I’d definitely like to say that i have a good enough fuel system to support e85. I have the Fore Innovations dual in tank pump, new lines, lt4 high side, lt4 injectors. But after further review i found a more ominous code. You might know about this code. it’s “U0100”

[KingLT1]

I would put a NGK 7 heat range plug in it. You are probably right at the system limits for full pump E85 with the LT4 HPFP. If you mix back to E60 then you can likely squeeze a couple more psi out of it. I was able to run E78 @ 8.5 psi with the LT4 injectors, LPE HPFP, LT4 low side with a JMS booster. I dropped pulley so it's it making 9.5-10psi peak and I had to drop back to E60. Low side is still fine, my high side starts to taper off a little bit. E60 still allows you to get all the available timing. So the only reason to really run full pump E is for the convenience of not having to mix it which really isn't a big deal.

[christisnt]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I would put a NGK 7 heat range plug in it. You are probably right at the system limits for full pump E85 with the LT4 HPFP. If you mix back to E60 then you can likely squeeze a couple more psi out of it. I was able to run E78 @ 8.5 psi with the LT4 injectors, LPE HPFP, LT4 low side with a JMS booster. I dropped pulley so it's it making 9.5-10psi peak and I had to drop back to E60. Low side is still fine, my high side starts to taper off a little bit. E60 still allows you to get all the available timing. So the only reason to really run full pump E is for the convenience of not having to mix it which really isn't a big deal.

My biggest concern is the fact that my code reader doesn't even read that there is a misfire. The code that it is reading is U0100, which it says stands for loss of communication to the ecu. I don't even know where to begin on how to diagnose that issue, let alone fix it, and even though it says what it means, i still don't quite understand what the exact problem is.