[Trackpack]

I learned not to use frame mounted tie downs to secure my 2018 Camaro to the trailer. I also learned that the back straps are the most important and that I should not cross them.

Two issues with tie downs on my car.

The rear tie downs couldn't stand the cross force applied and one of them sheared off the attachment bolt. The other rear cross strap allowed the car to shift six inches to one side and move forward about a foot. I had no idea this had happened until I got out at Ozark International Raceway to take the car off the trailer. The front spoiler was close to contacting the bar on the front of the trailer but I suffered no damage. Luckily, my friendly Chevrolet dealer was able to identify the bolt and for a simple $9.80 I was able to change it out.

The other issue is the wear on the bottoms of the front tow hooks. I wouldn't think there would be ground clearance issues there. My guess is gators on some tracks are making contact when the suspension is under compression.

I bought etrack tie down straps and will be going over the wheels from now on.

[clyde]

That really sucks. Glad no damage.

I'm trying to picture the failure. Which bolts were you using on the subframe? It looks like you bought a replacement for one of the aft bolts, but it also looks like you have the Strano tie downs. The Strano tie downs are meant to use the forward bolts.

If it is a Strano tie down, you might want to give him a call. I think I remember him telling me there was something he didn't like about the ZL1addons tie downs which use the aft bolts. It might have had something to do with the difference in bolts, but I don't remember.

[Stephen12ZL1]

I would guess that much of the "cross force applied to them" was excessive ratcheting. Be careful when using ratcheting tie straps. They can't be loose either but a happy medium is necessary. The pic tells the story. Those bolts in that location can't handle a huge load but a huge load is not necessary to properly secure your vehicle. I agree over the tire straps are amazing and are likely a better choice. I've watched many people overdo it at the track with the ratcheting straps giving three extra clicks when it is definitely not necessary and potentially damaging.

[DaveC113]

Rear subframe bolts are not designed to see the loads that a tiedown strap might subject them to. They are TTY, not a grade-8. These cars aren't overbuilt like an old truck. I don't think any frame-based tie-downs are a good idea.

Wheels are designed to see these types of loads. If it were my car I'd use the wheels to tie down.

[N Camarolina]

I've not trailered before, but I've got a scientific mind. If you were to use the frame to tie down the Camaro to the trailer, wouldn't you be at least partially loading the suspension? And then if your the trailer experiences any road bounce while driving, I'd imaging that it would transfer to the Camaro suspension and stress the tie down points.

Conversely if the wheels are used as the tie-down, the Camaro suspension is free to float and soak up any road shock without stressing any parts and yet there is no risk of the vehicle moving on the trailer deck.

[20Bluezl1]

I only use wheel straps with etrack simple and easy.

[Msquared]

Tying down by the frame tie-downs is literally how the factory does it. That's why the tie-down points are there! If you ratchet the straps down, you compress the springs somewhat, but who cares? They are literally always compressed partially. You keep the car from moving around on its suspension, which means less chance of shifting and lot less wear on the dampers and bushings. The tie-downs are a more stable way to secure the car, and there's no chance of a strap hurting the finish of the wheels.

[Jus Cruisin]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Tying down by the frame tie-downs is literally how the factory does it. That's why the tie-down points are there! If you ratchet the straps down, you compress the springs somewhat, but who cares? They are literally always compressed partially. You keep the car from moving around on its suspension, which means less chance of shifting and lot less wear on the dampers and bushings. The tie-downs are a more stable way to secure the car, and there's no chance of a strap hurting the finish of the wheels.

They use that method because it's easiest and fastest to load and unload on railcars and car carrier semis, not because it is best for the vehicles being transported. The preferred method is using tire/wheel tie-downs.

[Vtor_ZL1]

These cars don't have T-hook slots in the side rails ?



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-340003


Disadvantages to using them ?

[Jus Cruisin]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

These cars don't have T-hook slots in the side rails ?



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mtd-340003


Disadvantages to using them ?

I used them on a Mustang years ago. They worked but a pain to use. I then started using Mac's Tie Downs through the wheel straps and never went back. Like this.

https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/p...32334634647626

The trailers i owned I didn't bother putting the tracks in. If they were in, I would have probably gone with some sort of tire strap/net.

[Alpha1BC]

There are no factory tie down locations on these cars that were designed/intended for securing the car for transport. All Camaros are shipped from the factory using straps over the tires. That's the best method to secure these cars for transport as it secures the wheels in place but still lets the suspension do its job of absorbing any roughness in the road that gets transferred through the trailer through normal load paths of the suspension.

IMO next best option would be strapping through the wheel. I don't prefer this method as these types of straps can put odd loads through the suspension and risk pulling things out of alignment or even bending/damaging suspension components when overtightened or as the trailer is taken over rough roads.

Last option I'd use for regular trailering is aftermarket tie-downs like what OP had. It's extremely easy to be too tight or too loose on the straps. Too tight and there's risk of tearing bolts off that are now overloaded as a result of not being designed to handle the loads of strapping the car down in that fashion. Too loose and the suspension can still move around enough to allow slack in the strap as the trailer goes over bumps. Best case there is the car moves a little on the trailer, worse it can still damage/shear bolts off since the body now has some momentum when it slams the strap back to being taught which results in even higher loads than if it was too tight to begin with.

It's not a bad idea to have a set of aftermarket strap points on the car to use in a situation where you have to be towed/trailered and that's the only method available to strap the car down, but if you're planning to tow regularly and have the option it's best to go with over-wheel straps.

[ICTsccaCamaro]

Whenever trailering gets brought up I always say the same thing, e trac with wheel straps is the only correct way.

[rcoe]

Just hauled mine last night for the 1st time on my new trailer. Installed Etracks, have Etrack wheel stop for front tires with the tire strap over the front tires. The Etrack tire straps go over the tire with a single heavy strap that has 3 spaced rubber pucks.

Once tight against the tire stops and a single strap in the rear it was a very secure setup and after 25 miles over less than perfect Michigan roads it had not moved even a little. Very happy with this setup.

[Trackpack]

The front replacement bolts for the tie downs came in (on the right). It took a lot of impact force to bent this bolt (on the left). This is less than 1 foot behind the front wheel on the passenger side. The drivers side tie down is worn but the bolt is not bent. My guess is the curbing at either Brainerd or Road America made contact.

I won't be using tie downs to the vehicle support structure in the future.