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Old 11-23-2020, 02:39 PM   #15
Jhunsberger
 
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Drives: 2017 Camaro 1SS M6
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I was honestly surprised something with the trans broke. I fully expected the clutch to start to wear out and it start pushing thru the clutch. I guess the diff will be next! I would say there is about 60 passes on the trans, and i dont drive it easy on the street either. Hanlon Motorsports will be rebuilding it, they are a local Tremec shop. Their guess was that a plastic shift fork pad got wiped off and has the thing jammed up, so nothing catastrophic by any means, should be an easy fix and beef up some things.
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2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11

Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80

Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.

Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq

Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92

Last edited by Jhunsberger; 11-27-2020 at 06:26 AM.
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Old 11-26-2020, 02:56 AM   #16
Tim M
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE
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Jhunsberger: thanks for the images and glad it was easier than not. I'm preparing to do the same...but for a rear main seal leak. Not really looking forward to laying on my back.
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Old 11-29-2020, 12:03 PM   #17
Tim M
 
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Just pulled mine today...quite an unpleasant experience. Likely a better workspace/lift and correct tools make it much more enjoyable...or I'm a challenged solo mechanic.



Couple of comments - definitely need the cradle as low as you are willing to go. I loosened the steering shaft too as the OEM exhaust manifold will hit and bind as you lower the cradle.

Also there is a bolt at the top of the bellhousing - a bit of a pain, but luckily the bellhousing bolts are not very tight - surprisingly.

The driveshaft requires a T60 torx bit as well. The rest was unbolting and getting a work out muscling the 150 pound trans around on my back...even with a tranny jack. And it took about 6-7 hours of fiddling. Going back in will be even more of a chore.
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Old 11-29-2020, 05:40 PM   #18
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Actually putting it back in is a piece of cake after figuring out how to take it out.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:14 AM   #19
Jhunsberger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
Just pulled mine today...quite an unpleasant experience. Likely a better workspace/lift and correct tools make it much more enjoyable...or I'm a challenged solo mechanic.

Couple of comments - definitely need the cradle as low as you are willing to go. I loosened the steering shaft too as the OEM exhaust manifold will hit and bind as you lower the cradle.

Also there is a bolt at the top of the bellhousing - a bit of a pain, but luckily the bellhousing bolts are not very tight - surprisingly.

The driveshaft requires a T60 torx bit as well. The rest was unbolting and getting a work out muscling the 150 pound trans around on my back...even with a tranny jack. And it took about 6-7 hours of fiddling. Going back in will be even more of a chore.
If you did it by yourself on jack stands in 6-7 hours I commend you, good effort man. Like I said it took 2 of us 3 hours on a lift, and we had the tools we needed and had a pretty good idea what we were getting in to. Hopefully it does go in easier like Jcunningham said. I just got my new GM throwout bearing with the tick performance billet release bearing support. Wont have my trans back till end of December and will be doing a Mcleod RXT clutch and steel flywheel.

So how come you are pulling your trans?
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2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11

Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80

Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.

Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq

Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92
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Old 12-02-2020, 02:36 PM   #20
Tim M
 
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Jhunsberger: Thanks...my body still aches (embarassingly). Rear main seal failure likely related to the LT4 blower. I now have a breather installed so should solve that aspect.

Can one reuse the OEM clutch/flywheel hardware? And torque values? Little slow thinking through that part... I've got all winter to reassemble.

Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:53 PM   #21
Jhunsberger
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
Jhunsberger: Thanks...my body still aches (embarassingly). Rear main seal failure likely related to the LT4 blower. I now have a breather installed so should solve that aspect.

Can one reuse the OEM clutch/flywheel hardware? And torque values? Little slow thinking through that part... I've got all winter to reassemble.

Thanks.
I am not sure about reusing the OEM hardware, I probably would if I was reinstalling the OEM clutch, but thats just me. There is a link in the 3rd post for an ACT clutch install video which does call out torque specs on their clutch install. Should be close to OEM since its the same size bolt. Sorry I couldnt be more specific without doing some additional research.
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2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11

Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80

Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.

Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq

Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92
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Old 12-05-2020, 10:37 AM   #22
Tim M
 
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE
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Finally plulled the clutch/flywheel:



I didn't know the OEM clutch was a twin disc...should of expected it, but now I know why it works so well even with such HP in these cars:





And the flywheel:



The rear main seal is hardly oily...almost like it had a couple of 'events' and returned to normal. Nonetheless, will research if I can just pry out the seal and tap in a new one vice my original plan of replacing the entire RMS plate/seal. This requires disturbing the seal to the oil pan at the bottom (just RTV)...more work and more risk to more leaks IMO.

Jhunsberger: The OEM hardware looks pretty normal. I will figure out the torque values - the linked video is very helpful, but only mentions the OEM flywheel bolts - the clutch numbers are for their aftermarket unit. No worries. Thanks!
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Old 12-05-2020, 03:17 PM   #23
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have you checked compression on that engine? an acquaintance with basically the same setup recently experienced the same issues you were having. leaking oil under load, looked like rear & front main seal. turns out there is a compression loss in several of the cylinders that caused high pressures in the pcv, resulting in the oil/water separator box being split among other things.
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Old 12-06-2020, 04:23 AM   #24
Tim M
 
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s346k: Let us be positive!

I had, but got sidetracked. It runs quite well without excess blowby - also added a valve cover breather to avoid issues like this in the future (unless the ring seal fails). Believe this was primarily the result of a 190 mph run on the autobahn...didn't leak since.
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Old 12-06-2020, 09:28 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
s346k: Let us be positive!

I had, but got sidetracked. It runs quite well without excess blowby - also added a valve cover breather to avoid issues like this in the future (unless the ring seal fails). Believe this was primarily the result of a 190 mph run on the autobahn...didn't leak since.
10-4.

are you going to reuse the stock clutch hardware?

can you grab a close up pic at the top of the shifter? in this area...
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Old 12-06-2020, 11:46 AM   #26
Tim M
 
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I will be reusing the OEM hardware. It had thread locker on it so will clean and reapply. None of it was high torque (the flywheel is 74 and the clutch was somewhat less).

I did not remove the shifter...just took the 3 x pins out and did not disturb that portion.

Appears Jhunsberger pulled that portion based on the images...
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Old 12-07-2020, 07:35 AM   #27
Jhunsberger
 
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I did pull the shifter, I just swapped in the Hurst unit over the weekend. so i have the stock unit loose. I will try and remember to take some pics.

FYI my RMS was a little damp with clutch dust in it, which I kind of expected considering the boost. Your OEM clutch looks good, better than mine for sure.
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2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11

Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80

Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.

Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq

Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:00 AM   #28
Jhunsberger
 
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S346K: here is a shifter pic.
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2017 1SS M6 Hyper Blue Metallic NPP, MMR 228 Z/28 replica wheels, Front: 20 x 9, Rear 20 x 11

Stock: 416hp/427tq, 12.21 @ 116.80

Modified 02/2019: Whipple SC w/ 3.500 pulley, LT4 fueling, NW 103 TB, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Kooks 2" jet coated, full Borla ATAK exhaust, DSS axles, Gforce driveshaft.

Tuned by EFX Tuning 688hp/632tq

Best 1/4 to date: 10.705 @ 131.92
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