[oliv4151]

Hello everyone

Did you know if i could put this oil in my 2018 Zl1 :

https://www.123pneus.fr/cgi-bin/osho...cle_disabled=1

I asked this question because it is a «*long life*» oil and even with many searches i have not found the information anywhere..
It’s a Dexos 2 oil.
On my oil cap it is Write «*5w30 Sae dexos*»

Thanks Guys

[LT4Greg]

I don’t see any reason why you can’t use it oliv! It is 5W30 Dexos 2 so it should be good to use in your ZL1!��

[oliv4151]

Yes you surely right but i ever heard that the long life oil has different specificities than the normal one ..
But Greg if you tell me it is ok .. well it is perfect

[LT4Greg]

Maybe others will chime in with their thoughts!

[EDFHOBBIES]

Should be ok wish we knew the Ash number.. Anything under 1.0 will do Mobile ESPs and 5/30 are .8 where Amsoil oils 1.2 (very high ASH bad for emissions parts)

[oliv4151]

Wow Edfhobbies the ash number ???
I absolutely don’t know what is it ..
You know where i can found .. write somewhere ?

[EDFHOBBIES]

the companies spec sheet

[oliv4151]

i've only found this :


https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.ne...pdf?1492016046

[oliv4151]

I am looking for a rear diff oil equivalent in europe instead of the: Dexron LS 75W-90
...
Do you have an idea ??
Thanks

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by oliv4151

i've only found this :


https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.ne...pdf?1492016046

Sulfated ash ASTM D874 0.78% weight

Perfect I would use it its looks like mobile 1 formula almost, Its Below 1.0 on the ASH level where as 5/30 0/40 mobile 1 euro spec oil is 1.2 and Amsoil is 1.2 Ash% of course both are great oils for wear and interval changes...

If you look up ASH level in oil contributes to carbon deposits you will see they go hand in hand.. but so does the TBN number and wear additives.

I have a catch can and port injection I run Euro mobile 1 or Amsoil for they have better wear agents.. I do not worry about deposits since I'm Port and DI.

Remember additives are added to raise the TBN that lengthen service intervals those additive also have awesome benefits as antiwar agents..
The problem is they raise the ASH level and High ash level means it has soft metals like calcium, magnesium, zinc, and phosphorus...

From what I've read those(soft metals) are what carbon build up comprise of mostly..


So a low ash oil and change it sooner is the best protection for a DI motor if staying warranty friendly

Low ASH, a catch can, and sooner intervals would not be warranty friendly but you would have the cleanest intake valves you can possibly have w a DI motor just for some reason GM thinks a catch can should void the warranty.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by oliv4151

I am looking for a rear diff oil equivalent in europe instead of the: Dexron LS 75W-90
...
Do you have an idea ??
Thanks

Honestly the Amsoil or GM is what people reported with trouble free operation.

You need the GM additive whether in the GM oil or buy your local brand and adding the gm additive yourself.

The Amsoil has and additive all ready

I guess you can find something locally that says with additive or friction modifier and try it. If you hear any groan or weird noises on low speed turns try another brand.

[oliv4151]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Sulfated ash ASTM D874 0.78% weight

Perfect I would use it its looks like mobile 1 formula almost, Its Below 1.0 on the ASH level where as 5/30 0/40 mobile 1 euro spec oil is 1.2 and Amsoil is 1.2 Ash% of course both are great oils for wear and interval changes...

If you look up ASH level in oil contributes to carbon deposits you will see they go hand in hand.. but so does the TBN number and wear additives.

I have a catch can and port injection I run Euro mobile 1 or Amsoil for they have better wear agents.. I do not worry about deposits since I'm Port and DI.

Remember additives are added to raise the TBN that lengthen service intervals those additive also have awesome benefits as antiwar agents..
The problem is they raise the ASH level and High ash level means it has soft metals like calcium, magnesium, zinc, and phosphorus...

From what I've read those(soft metals) are what carbon build up comprise of mostly..


So a low ash oil and change it sooner is the best protection for a DI motor if staying warranty friendly

Low ASH, a catch can, and sooner intervals would not be warranty friendly but you would have the cleanest intake valves you can possibly have w a DI motor just for some reason GM thinks a catch can should void the warranty.

Wow thank you very much EdfHobbies for all the advises that you gave me
I don’t have all understand because some words are very specifics but in fact .. i got 99%
For you the best interval with this particulary oil between 2 changes oil will be ... 4000 .. 5000 miles ??
About the rear diff oil you absolutely right i think i will buy it even if i will have max shipping costs and much taxes
In all of case you don’t make this operation all the time ... well it is better for the Zl1 to always have the « top »

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by oliv4151

Wow thank you very much EdfHobbies for all the advises that you gave me
I don’t have all understand because some words are very specifics but in fact .. i got 99%
For you the best interval with this particulary oil between 2 changes oil will be ... 4000 .. 5000 miles ??
About the rear diff oil you absolutely right i think i will buy it even if i will have max shipping costs and much taxes
In all of case you don’t make this operation all the time ... well it is better for the Zl1 to always have the « top »

I'd go 3000 miles on motor oil changes if it was me and had no catch can.. That's a lot miles if you think about it, I mean guys are changing them before track days and after... LOL!

[oliv4151]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

I'd go 3000 miles on motor oil changes if it was me and had no catch can.. That's a lot miles if you think about it, I mean guys are changing them before track days and after... LOL!

Woow 3000 miles .. it is not so much miles
I don’t go to racetrack with my car ..
I care too much of her

But with the car of other guy .. why not but not mine

In normal conditions you think that 3000 miles is really the maximum and 5-6000 miles is not reachable ?