[Camaro1973]

Hey guys, going to change the stock brake pads this week sometime because i'm sick of the brake dust. I've never changed pads on these cars yet. Watched a few videos but most were only SS models. I assume its pretty much the same for the 6 piston brembos.


Do i need any special tool to compress the pistons back to install the new pads or can you compress them easily with a flat tool etc. It looked like in the videos most people just pushed the old pads back against the piston and they compress easily.


Thanks

[SoCal Smith]

Nothing special to change the pads needed. Pretty standard 6 pots. pot the pins, pull the pads out, push the pistons back in and insert new pads (will be tight fit) Make sure that they sent you the correct hardware/pads. I had two boxes of Z26 come with pads for a corvette and then replaced it with a rear set in a front set box...

I changed my pads to the Z26 STREET PERFORMANCE CARBON-FIBER CERAMIC BRAKE PADS for "low dust" and it was terrible FYI. I'll take the dust over lowered performance.

if your old pads still have meat on them, save them... you might want to switch back

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by SoCal Smith

Nothing special to change the pads needed. Pretty standard 6 pots. pot the pins, pull the pads out, push the pistons back in and insert new pads (will be tight fit) Make sure that they sent you the correct hardware/pads. I had two boxes of Z26 come with pads for a corvette and then replaced it with a rear set in a front set box...

I changed my pads to the Z26 STREET PERFORMANCE CARBON-FIBER CERAMIC BRAKE PADS for "low dust" and it was terrible FYI. I'll take the dust over lowered performance.

if your old pads still have meat on them, save them... you might want to switch back

Yeah i read some people say they are perfectly fine and some people say they dont stop well.... Im curious maybe if the ones with stopping issues maybe didnt rough up their rotors or buy new ones or bed the new powerstops properly? ( I don't track the car, just street use)

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Yeah i read some people say they are perfectly fine and some people say they dont stop well.... Im curious maybe if the ones with stopping issues maybe didnt rough up their rotors or buy new ones or bed the new powerstops properly? ( I don't track the car, just street use)

Powerstop z26 work just fine for normal street driving, they just have less initial bite. # 1835 front, # 1053 rear.

The retaining pins just push out (I used a small punch + ball-peen hammer to lightly tap them out). The front calipers also have a bolt you must remove. Don't forget to transfer the metal plates on the back pads (or they'll squeak).

[Zl1+911]

If you old pads are worn to some degree the new ones will not slide in...you can use many tools to push the piston back a bit, I just use the old pads, move them halfway out and then angle them a pit to push the three pistons in just a bit so the new ones will fit...

[Stephen12ZL1]

nothing difficult. Loosen the master cylinder cap before pushing back the caliper pistons. Here is the order which works for me...use a punch and gently tap the top pin first just to release the pin tension and depress the top of the main tensioner with your fingers and pull the pin from the back. The entire tensioner can be released and removed now leaving the bridge bolt and lower pin. Loosen the 13mm bolt from the back side and remove bridge bolt the. tap the lower pin gently and remove it.

Depress the pistons with the old pad and screwdriver. You can squeeze the outer pad easily with your fingers first to give you space. Don't remove both old pads even though you can. Place the new outer pad once the pistons are retracted then repeat for the inner pad and replace all of the above stuff in reverse order. You can place the tensioner after the lower pin is reinstalled and bridge bolt. Make sure the tensioner is in the correct orientation with arrow up. Squeeze the tensioner over the bridge bolt and place the top pin then tap it making certain it is fully seated. Check how far the pins are seated by making a mental note of how far they protrude through the caliper before removing. Good luck and it is really easy.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

nothing difficult. Loosen the master cylinder cap before pushing back the caliper pistons. Here is the order which works for me...use a punch and gently tap the top pin first just to release the pin tension and depress the top of the main tensioner with your fingers and pull the pin from the back. The entire tensioner can be released and removed now leaving the bridge bolt and lower pin. Loosen the 13mm bolt from the back side and remove bridge bolt the. tap the lower pin gently and remove it.

Depress the pistons with the old pad and screwdriver. You can squeeze the outer pad easily with your fingers first to give you space. Don't remove both old pads even though you can. Place the new outer pad once the pistons are retracted then repeat for the inner pad and replace all of the above stuff in reverse order. You can place the tensioner after the lower pin is reinstalled and bridge bolt. Make sure the tensioner is in the correct orientation with arrow up. Squeeze the tensioner over the bridge bolt and place the top pin then tap it making certain it is fully seated. Check how far the pins are seated by making a mental note of how far they protrude through the caliper before removing. Good luck and it is really easy.

Nice write up! Saving for a spring pad change.

[TWG1]

These are by far the easiest pads I've ever changed. If you can take toast out of a 2-slot toaster oven, then you can change the pads.

@Stephen12ZL1 always has the best mech advice. Only thing I'll add is to not overtighten the bridge bolt. This is solid 1/4" socket wrench territory (put the breaker bar away, you won't be needing it here). I recall its less than 20ftlbs. Think oil drain plug equivalent tightness.

Finally, I usually seat the pins by sound. The *ping* changes note once they're fully seated.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

nothing difficult. Loosen the master cylinder cap before pushing back the caliper pistons. Here is the order which works for me...use a punch and gently tap the top pin first just to release the pin tension and depress the top of the main tensioner with your fingers and pull the pin from the back. The entire tensioner can be released and removed now leaving the bridge bolt and lower pin. Loosen the 13mm bolt from the back side and remove bridge bolt the. tap the lower pin gently and remove it.

Depress the pistons with the old pad and screwdriver. You can squeeze the outer pad easily with your fingers first to give you space. Don't remove both old pads even though you can. Place the new outer pad once the pistons are retracted then repeat for the inner pad and replace all of the above stuff in reverse order. You can place the tensioner after the lower pin is reinstalled and bridge bolt. Make sure the tensioner is in the correct orientation with arrow up. Squeeze the tensioner over the bridge bolt and place the top pin then tap it making certain it is fully seated. Check how far the pins are seated by making a mental note of how far they protrude through the caliper before removing. Good luck and it is really easy.

Awesome thanks for detailed write up!

[Biscuit.fr]

Same here
Everything is said
Just be careful with the bridge bolt (front center guide) which is weak
I switched back my OEM pads to track the beast (+1 for the initial bite compare to Z26)
And when I unscrewed this bolt it broke!
So recommend not to torque it super tight for the next time you want to switch...
Rest is ok and easy
Found a caliper hardware kit on Amazon to replace it:

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18K21...4819632&sr=8-4

This small bolt is really B.. S..

[Camaro1973]

Great all set. Changed all 4, took like 2 hours in my driveway. Was a piece of cake.


Just a note to people that haven't done them before, the rear pins sit recessed inside the caliper a bit, simply tapping them back in wont seat them all the way. I used my punch on the inside to push them all the way through, the fronts you can tap in as the pin is thicker at the end and will stop, the rest of the instructions were spot on.


I sanded the rotors down with 80 grit, and broke them in per instructions. No more squeaking, breaking seems good. Ill see how dust is in a few days


Thanks!

[TWG1]

Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr

Same here
Everything is said
Just be careful with the bridge bolt (front center guide) which is weak
I switched back my OEM pads to track the beast (+1 for the initial bite compare to Z26)
And when I unscrewed this bolt it broke!
So recommend not to torque it super tight for the next time you want to switch...
Rest is ok and easy
Found a caliper hardware kit on Amazon to replace it:

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18K21...4819632&sr=8-4

This small bolt is really B.. S..

Good Amazon find. I ordered a spare hardware set tonight. Would hate to do a trackside swap and botch the brakes for a weekend. Thanks for the link.

[Biscuit.fr]

Originally Posted by TWG1

Good Amazon find. I ordered a spare hardware set tonight. Would hate to do a trackside swap and botch the brakes for a weekend. Thanks for the link.

You’re welcome
👍

[sspddmn]

Great write ups! Been wanting to replace my brake pads because mine squeak all the time (bought my ZLE used 2 months ago but pads look brand new). I know this has been talked about a lot but there are too many mixed reviews about different brands of pads. I want the performance of the OEM pads but with no squeaks and less brake dust also. Haven't been able to find them. I currently dont track the car yet but will do so in the future.