[Badgerbimmer]

as far as I know it does not come in colors, however it is by far the best commonly available brake fluid. I have used them all and nothing comes close.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by dw760

Im not going to worry about a very little left in the ABS actuators.

....

I just cant stand the mess they make on the street.

Dust bowl city ........ LOL !

I'm not worried about it either, but I do want to rebleed after a good amount of ABS activation, since I did have a fair amount of air in the system when I did the flush, and it was not right at the calipers, it was trapped air somewhere in the system. Usual suspect is ABS system.

As for dust, what dust? My wheels are the color of brake pad dust (won't have it any other way), and I pay $19.99/month for unlimited car washes. My goal is to have pads that work well enough on track, and don't scare the little kids with loud squeals on the street. Oh!, and I also stay away from Hawk's corrosive brake pad dust.

[dw760]

I went with Maxima racing 600 Dot 4 , since I can get it from my distributor.

Should work great, as I have used in road race bikes, and also has good specs.

http://www.maximausa.com/product/brake-fluid/


Cheers D

[baron95]

Originally Posted by dw760

I went with Maxima racing 600 Dot 4 , since I can get it from my distributor.

Should work great, as I have used in road race bikes, and also has good specs.

http://www.maximausa.com/product/brake-fluid/


Cheers D

That is prob the same stuff as Motul 600 RBF. Most of these fluids are variations of the same base stock.

[dw760]

Originally Posted by baron95

That is prob the same stuff as Motul 600 RBF. Most of these fluids are variations of the same base stock.

LOL ! Never know it could be Motul in a Maxima can

[dw760]

Originally Posted by baron95

I'm not worried about it either, but I do want to rebleed after a good amount of ABS activation, since I did have a fair amount of air in the system when I did the flush, and it was not right at the calipers, it was trapped air somewhere in the system. Usual suspect is ABS system.

As for dust, what dust? My wheels are the color of brake pad dust (won't have it any other way), and I pay $19.99/month for unlimited car washes. My goal is to have pads that work well enough on track, and don't scare the little kids with loud squeals on the street. Oh!, and I also stay away from Hawk's corrosive brake pad dust.

I will re bleed a bit after my auto cross next weekend, then it will be ready for a track day at the end of the month.

Stock pads made a huge mess on my C7 and 1LE. As you know, different tracks and driving style have allot to do with if you need a full on race pad or not. I dont need a full race pad in the intermediate / advanced group where I plan to track.

Ive run the Evolution Power Stop pads on both my last cars, and they work better than stock with 1/4 the brake dust. They seem to be easy on the rotors, zero squeals, fit well and dont break the bank.

Great street and occasional track day pad.

[bpang1234]

Originally Posted by antny

Lucky man. I got out of the car scene for a few years when ATE decided to stop selling the blue. I didn't even know I needed to stock up.

Super lucky.

It really sucks that we can't have Super Blue anymore. I used to like to alternate blue and amber but now we are pretty much stuck with amber.

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by dw760

Ive run the Evolution Power Stop pads on both my last cars, and they work better than stock with 1/4 the brake dust. They seem to be easy on the rotors, zero squeals, fit well and dont break the bank.

Great street and occasional track day pad.

They absolutely do NOT work better than stock (on Camaros at least, not sure what your other cars were and what kind of pads they had) and should not be driven on track. Everything not bold is true.

I've seen so many posts on here and Facebook where people buy these pads and wonder why their braking performance decreased or worse yet failed on track. Then I read posts like this one which adds to this scenario. Those pads are designed to decrease dust and that's about it.

[dw760]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

They absolutely do NOT work better than stock (on Camaros at least, not sure what your other cars were and what kind of pads they had) and should not be driven on track. Everything not bold is true.

I've seen so many posts on here and Facebook where people buy these pads and wonder why their braking performance decreased or worse yet failed on track. Then I read posts like this one which adds to this scenario. Those pads are designed to decrease dust and that's about it.

I never said they are a race pad.

That's your opinion, I found they work at least as well as stock pads. What does fail mean, they burn up, over heat and you run off the track. I ran them on my C7 on at a couple track days and also on my 17 1LE. They worked just fine. Granted this was at Thunder Hill West that is not a super high speed track, but you still use the brakes hard.

Im not the fastest, but not slow trust me. You make it sound like you install these and will have less dust, but are pure junk.

Wrong, they are a good street and occasional track day pad.

No need to argue about this

D

[dw760]

Originally Posted by Badgerbimmer

as far as I know it does not come in colors, however it is by far the best commonly available brake fluid. I have used them all and nothing comes close.

Nice

[enzia35]

How long should I run the Motul 600 before flushing the system? I read it should be good for about 2 years.

Assume no track work.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by enzia35

How long should I run the Motul 600 before flushing the system? I read it should be good for about 2 years.

Assume no track work.

Why would you run Motul 600 if you are not going to track it?

You can probably run it for several years without problems, if all you will do is drive on the street. But changing every couple of years is still a good idea to keep all the lines, calipers, etc free of corrosion.

[Inthepasture]

I just replaced mine at 14000 miles and that was way too late. The OEM fluid is pale straw color and this is well, um, boiled and pan fried pumpkin. Because I had extra fluid, I went around the whole car and rebled each fitting and the inside caliper was quite dirty even the second time. I will bleed every 3000 from now on. The pedal was getting soft. It is firm now. I used Castrol SRF. No color difference but a slight viscosity difference.

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by Inthepasture

I just replaced mine at 14000 miles and that was way too late. The OEM fluid is pale straw color and this is well, um, boiled and pan fried pumpkin. Because I had extra fluid, I went around the whole car and rebled each fitting and the inside caliper was quite dirty even the second time. I will bleed every 3000 from now on. The pedal was getting soft. It is firm now. I used Castrol SRF. No color difference but a slight viscosity difference.

14,000 miles is a... LONG, long, LONG period to stay on a brake fluid in a high performance application. Time, both in respect to track usage and installed/filled, is a better metric to go on with brake fluid, due to it's hygroscopic nature. Over time, any brake system will begin to absorb water, which will reduce the fluids ability to sustain high temperature. With high temperature usage, the fluid also breaks down in it's ability to lubricate, corrosion-protect, and "anti-foam". Re-bleeding only goes so far to remove air from the system and keep the pedal doing the work it needs to; it doesn't help with the multiple factors of work the brake fluid needs to accomplish outside of compressibility.

With RBF-600, which is my go-to, readily available and "cheap" brake fluid, I only keep the stuff in my car for a season, so less than a year, with multiple thorough re-bleeds (I push a lot of fluid out of the bleeders at each caliper and re-top-off). This is figuring, say, 4-6 track days a season. If you are only doing 2 or 3 a season, you can get away with a fluid flush about a year, max, and typical re-bleeds/checks. I don't bother with any company's "upper" versions (i.e. 660 vs 600) as the wet boiling point is typically NO different between the two and the dry boiling point isn't that significantly higher, either.

Now, I am going to be switching over to Castrol React SRF as my main fluid, though. A few reasons: The wet boiling point is crazy (520 F). The wet boiling point is significantly higher than any brake fluid I've seen. The dry boiling point is also phenomenal, at 610 F. Although I am not doing any racing in my 1LE, or plan to do any serious tracking - really just doing it for fun in enjoying the car - my thought is, long term, it makes more sense. The fluid has a higher safety margin, so as it degrades/absorbs water, I can use the fluid longer before worrying about it. So, I can just do regular brake bleeds and minor top-offs. I also don't plan to run any crazy track pads, so I want the extra margin of safety with temperature competency. Lastly, according to it's viscosity specs, it is well within the design criteria for DOT 3/4, so the ability of ABS is not compromised (thinking in regards to what GM had to design the system to/with). Less flushes, a higher margin of safety and compatibility with ABS.