2010 camaro ss l99 with high miles

[Chihuas]

Hi is my first time post here but i got some question i got my 2010 camaro ss l99 for like 4 month and the first time run on the track stock runs 14.380 on the 1/4 miles and the car feel great with no misfire but has almost 200k miles i check compression on the engine before start spend monet and got around 175 to 185 at all cilinder, after CAI,long heaters, better spark plugs cables,throttle body spacer, gears swap to 3.91, and wet nitrous with 125 shot, nt05 nittos 305/45/18 and hp tune only make 426hp on the wheels and 477hp on the engine only run 12.50 on the 1/4 miles you think something is wrong with the car

[pyroguy]

First off, welcome to the forums!

I'm a little confused as to your question. Are you concerned over the hp numbers or the quarter mile numbers? If you're only making 426 rwhp with headers, CAI, tune, and a 125 shot that seems a little low to me. It could be something off with the tune or you got a severely unfriendly dyno. As for the quarter mile times, I don't have a lot of experience with running down the strip, but that seems a little slow as well. How experienced are you at running down the track?

[Chihuas]

I check other post and about the hp i think is ok but on the track i think is slow on the 1/4 for all the stuff i just put in i just race on the track for 3 months but itry differents way like sport mode, traccion disable, on manual mode and gime almost the same number on my 60' is about 2.10 i see other people runs 1.7 with less modifications

[Chihuas]

I just put the dino number with the nitrous and without and on the track in the 98 number

[christianchevell]

You limit the car with the internals, most wanting to seriously build the l99 ditch the AFM lifters as they are a weak point and do a nice cam which should net 50 plus HP. The tune for the trans helps also but most do a torque convertor also...look at the fast list stickys...threads that stay on top of pages in varied forums and read up on what others have done. Many do much more for mods for more results, and BTW a ls3 crate engine intake to pan is only about 6500$ so not that unreasonable to keep our Camaros alive long after their original engine is dead. Read up, good luck. And generally a already built car with a nice NOS friendly cam will net a lot more than what they say for the spray....BTW.

[Chihuas]

I just think on upgrade cam and dod delete i talk to a company sale complete ket for $3k and is dod delete kit stage 3 cam with 3200 circle d stall zl1 fuel pump,and 60lb injectors they say with that kit make 600 rwhp plus the nitrous i try to make my car runs 11s on the 1/4 mile

[pyroguy]

$3k for a cam install on a L99 WITH a stall? Where do I sign up? I was getting quoted just over $5k.

[rontammy0]

Originally Posted by pyroguy

$3k for a cam install on a L99 WITH a stall? Where do I sign up? I was getting quoted just over $5k.

Yep....that's what I get. But I'm thinking that's not the right price.

[Chihuas]

Phastek performance they gime a bundle deal let me attach the list Camshaft Kit is on spanish the list vut the links is on english


El camshaft es un BTR Stage 3 con los valve springs y steel retainers,*
L99 a LS3 Conversion Kit, BTR Pushrods de 7.400":

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/C...d-07-11-04.htm

El Torque Converter es un Circle D Pro Series de 3200-3400 con single*
disk lockup:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/C...d-07-11-04.htm

Con Esas Partes va a necesitar una bomba de gasolina, le recomendamos*
una del ZL1. Entra en su carro sin modificacion.

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...p-19258436.htm
Tambien los injectores requiere unos de 60lbs:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/F...s303-0540h.htm

Y por fin si no los a cambiado los spark plugs. NGK TR6IX corren un*
nivel mas frio para el nitrous:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/N.../ngk-tr6ix.htm
Esta combinacion de partes le deberia de subir el poder alrededor de 600*
caballos de fuerza con el 100 shot de nitrous.

El total de esas partes es $3,330.76. Le puedo dar un descuento en*
ciertas partes que bajaria su total a $3,084.63 Con envio gratis.

[pyroguy]

Originally Posted by Chihuas

Phastek performance they gime a bundle deal let me attach the list Camshaft Kit is on spanish the list vut the links is on english


El camshaft es un BTR Stage 3 con los valve springs y steel retainers,*
L99 a LS3 Conversion Kit, BTR Pushrods de 7.400":

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/C...d-07-11-04.htm

El Torque Converter es un Circle D Pro Series de 3200-3400 con single*
disk lockup:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/C...d-07-11-04.htm

Con Esas Partes va a necesitar una bomba de gasolina, le recomendamos*
una del ZL1. Entra en su carro sin modificacion.

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/2...p-19258436.htm
Tambien los injectores requiere unos de 60lbs:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/F...s303-0540h.htm

Y por fin si no los a cambiado los spark plugs. NGK TR6IX corren un*
nivel mas frio para el nitrous:

>*https://www.phastekperformance.com/N.../ngk-tr6ix.htm
Esta combinacion de partes le deberia de subir el poder alrededor de 600*
caballos de fuerza con el 100 shot de nitrous.

El total de esas partes es $3,330.76. Le puedo dar un descuento en*
ciertas partes que bajaria su total a $3,084.63 Con envio gratis.

Is that just for parts? If so then I more understand the price. I thought that was an installed and tuned price.

[Chihuas]

Nope just for the parts the install i can do by my self plus the $200 i have to pay for retune bit i just think if this upgrade put me on 11s on the 1/4 mile or bellow

[Overflow]

Originally Posted by pyroguy

$3k for a cam install on a L99 WITH a stall? Where do I sign up? I was getting quoted just over $5k.

I was quoted $3k as well. So it's not completely unheard of.

[christianchevell]

With the age of your engine I would seriously avoid modifying your engine further IMO your likely to Grenade. The cam install is not your old daddies Chevy BTW and takes special tools and even math.... and lots more than some crappy DIY online from someone who is not here any more...… I myself go to a pro and use driven racing break in br30 oil, I dump after a 20-30 minute break in on the dyno even with a 8620 core.

The length of pushrods due to smaller base circle of higher lift aftermarket cams should be measured but generally are .025 longer than stock, the ratio of the rockers being 1.7 means the tightening of the lash/ lifter preload is 1.7 x .048 thread pitch and comes out to .077 for one turn way beyond the golden zone more in the .045-.060 area so smart people do 1/2 to 3/4 turn area for less typewriter sound...not so smart people just tighten it by lack of brain power and trash the cam, the lifters, bend the pushrods and trash a engine. Used to see that on here when the site was new and yes a guy who did a Real detailed DIY actually had real trouble he did not include in the DIY measuring to get the right pushrod length and also setting his preload...

Which came out in other posts he had afterward.... I know I was here, and noted he just limped it to get a tune also not so good and did no do a break in or etc etc...

You see being a old motorhead who installed lots of cams and rebuilt his own engines etc etc...I researched well before going on to invest in my daily hot rod, and was glad I did also I traded to stick for what I wanted in the first place.

Think what you will most likely your very lost if your going to depend on this site for help now as a great many are gone who were very knowledgeable here when the site had thousands online at once. If I were you I would look to the nearest competent shop, and where you are or for anyone anywhere...Livernois is good, up north, tons of places around Texas and the south west; and yup they would not F it up. Me personally I use a guy in Vancouver Wa named Thomas Wong, tommy wong of wongs performance engineering is on face book and he has a couple electrical engineering degrees and is basically a word of mouth guy booked for months...….

( You in Kansas sound to be a Brit, and wonder if you watch the Teli..the guys of the 405 the street outlaws are near you with their shops in OKC and most likely could do it easily and not F it up. But to be honest with you they would say why build this worn engine??????????? sure its what you got.)

And that's why he gets my Big Bucks. That and not inflating egos with his Mustang dyno and telling a person straight WTF is up and what the best action course is. You would invest about 5 grand into a install and dyno tune on a engine that's 200k in mileage when a whole new stock engine crate from pan to intake is $6500..... IMO that's not very wise and yes you have to pull heads and replace gaskets and inspect the pistons rings and bore, and replace the baskets and lifters and inspect their bores...etc and all bearing surfaces and hope they are ok.... and throwing good money after bad can leave you in a tough spot between a rock and a hard place.

So IMO just say no, most one here build fairly quickly or plan on the build way before your mileage; the sleeves are cast in and are not replaceable and only over hone capable of .020 and a ls7 is only .005 so yup disposable blocks, a bare block new is about $1400, factory CNC heads are about $1400 with better intake valves than the l99 comes with....hollow versus solid.... Things to think about. And the only thing wrong with the car...the driver wants to grenade it IMO. Sure it may be good for a while, but it is stock hypereutectic pistons and what ever stock oil was ran for 200 k ; and stock rings etc.....
Most rebuild at that mileage for cars they care about, used to be back in the day 100K increments to 200 for a bore on a iron block with good old dino oil.....

[205]

Hey Christian. Where did you buy your stroker?