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BeckyD @ James Martin Chevy


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Old 05-19-2017, 02:41 PM   #29
glamcem

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nancygrl View Post
Sorry that broke on ya... don't know what they should be, but given that it broke when you tried to go to 50; you were probably pretty darn close at 38. Also, it may have broke from being stressed from being loose... Just a thought, when you're at the dealership, ask the service folks to look up the torque spec for that.
yes that was my initial thought since I was having hard time believing that amount of torque caused that:

Here's what I posted on the 1LE sub section

I stopped by at the dealership to get the end links and asked the service department about the correct torque values. They said 74 lb/ft torque for both nuts (upper and lower)

And surprisingly the part numbers are different (Left and Right )

Manufacturer: GM
Part Number: 23240970
Part: Stabilizer Link
Part Notes: Camaro. Left. With sport suspension.


Manufacturer: GM
Part Number: 23240971
Part: Stabilizer Link
Part Notes: Camaro. Right. With sport suspension.

Here's a picture of what the service guy sees on his screen :
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Old 05-23-2017, 01:31 PM   #30
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We had a very nice owner pull in to our VIR Paddock with a clunking noise in his front end. I took it for a test drive and was able to produce the noise on both sides of the Camaro. The first place we went sere the endlinks. Those nuts were tight.

I even touched them lightly with an impact to be sure.. They didn't move. We went through all the ball joints. the lower ball joint on the right was easily tightened a little more than one turn. The lower ball joint on the driver's side was next to loose. It took three and one half turns. Test drive. No clunks.

After his next track session we had a clunk. The nut on the driver's side upper endlink stud was almost finger loose. Keep in mind, this is the same nut we tried to move with hand wrenches and couldn't budge it. The same nut I burped with an impact wrench. After one track session it was loose.

The flanged deep quenched nut is the issue. For a trackside fix, we used LocTitie, let it sit about 90 minutes and turned the driver loose. He completed hiss session with no clunks afterward.

The real fix is to use special anti-vibration washers on this 12mm stud. They are not cheap. You'll pay $1.25 to $2 for a single washer setup, but $8 to permanently solve a problem is cheap. Check out the video.

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Old 05-23-2017, 01:48 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post

We had a very nice owner pull in to our VIR Paddock with a clunking noise in his front end. I took it for a test drive and was able to produce the noise on both sides of the Camaro. The first place we went sere the endlinks. Those nuts were tight.

I even touched them lightly with an impact to be sure.. They didn't move. We went through all the ball joints. the lower ball joint on the right was easily tightened a little more than one turn. The lower ball joint on the driver's side was next to loose. It took three and one half turns. Test drive. No clunks.

After his next track session we had a clunk. The nut on the driver's side upper endlink stud was almost finger loose. Keep in mind, this is the same nut we tried to move with hand wrenches and couldn't budge it. The same nut I burped with an impact wrench. After one track session it was loose.

The flanged deep quenched nut is the issue. For a trackside fix, we used LocTitie, let it sit about 90 minutes and turned the driver loose. He completed hiss session with no clunks afterward.

The real fix is to use special anti-vibration washers on this 12mm stud. They are not cheap. You'll pay $1.25 to $2 for a single washer setup, but $8 to permanently solve a problem is cheap. Check out the video.
Hmm Thanks for the info I quickly checked a few other components but didn't pay attention to ball joints, I will check them as well.

I agree on the Nordlock washers, that's what I used on the caliper bolts since they're torque to yield type but didn't know the ball joints are also TTY. I also mentioned this recently :
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...9&postcount=85
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Old 05-23-2017, 02:40 PM   #32
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My right front end link broke pulling out of our slanted parking lot. Bought the BMR ones. No issues since
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Old 05-23-2017, 02:47 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by aka Reckless View Post
My right front end link broke pulling out of our slanted parking lot. Bought the BMR ones. No issues since
Can you describe 'broke'? As in broke in half, the ball socket failed...
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Old 05-23-2017, 07:25 PM   #34
Android42019
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There needs to be a TSB and/or a notice sent out to all Camaro owners, now my ZL1 is the 2nd vehicle at just my dealership to have a loose piece in the suspension, not to mention all of you guys having issues, this needs to be addressed by GM for sure.
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Old 05-23-2017, 08:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post



We had a very nice owner pull in to our VIR Paddock with a clunking noise in his front end. I took it for a test drive and was able to produce the noise on both sides of the Camaro. The first place we went sere the endlinks. Those nuts were tight.

I even touched them lightly with an impact to be sure.. They didn't move. We went through all the ball joints. the lower ball joint on the right was easily tightened a little more than one turn. The lower ball joint on the driver's side was next to loose. It took three and one half turns. Test drive. No clunks.

After his next track session we had a clunk. The nut on the driver's side upper endlink stud was almost finger loose. Keep in mind, this is the same nut we tried to move with hand wrenches and couldn't budge it. The same nut I burped with an impact wrench. After one track session it was loose.

The flanged deep quenched nut is the issue. For a trackside fix, we used LocTitie, let it sit about 90 minutes and turned the driver loose. He completed hiss session with no clunks afterward.

The real fix is to use special anti-vibration washers on this 12mm stud. They are not cheap. You'll pay $1.25 to $2 for a single washer setup, but $8 to permanently solve a problem is cheap. Check out the video.

Did you lift your car using the floor jack in the front/center like that? I don't think there's a suitable lift point there (with the aluminum shear panel in place).
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:06 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by vtirocz View Post
Did you lift your car using the floor jack in the front/center like that? I don't think there's a suitable lift point there (with the aluminum shear panel in place).
Yes we do use the FACTORY DESIGNATED LIFT POINT on the front subframe. You will need a very long, very low profile jack to do so. The one in the picture is about 4' long.
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Old 05-24-2017, 12:49 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Can you describe 'broke'? As in broke in half, the ball socket failed...
The ball socket failed. There is a sharp transition pulling out of our lot and it just popped real loud. Did n't care to get GM ones again.
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Old 05-24-2017, 06:45 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Yes we do use the FACTORY DESIGNATED LIFT POINT on the front subframe. You will need a very long, very low profile jack to do so. The one in the picture is about 4' long.
Can you post a picture of which lift point you're referring to?
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:03 PM   #39
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Can you post a picture of which lift point you're referring to?
NO because it turns out we were wrong and got lucky.
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Old 05-24-2017, 07:04 PM   #40
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The ball socket failed. There is a sharp transition pulling out of our lot and it just popped real loud. Did n't care to get GM ones again.
Surprising. Stock bar?
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:12 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
NO because it turns out we were wrong and got lucky.
dang I was looking forward to this!!! why oh WHY are there not more lifting options on these cars? it's frustrating.

thanks for the info, just gotta find out if its my endlinks or ball joints making my clunk before I hit the track next week.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:51 AM   #42
KLR ZL1
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So for those that have retorqued the bolts, is it still ok? Or did it come back? The reason why I ask is my ZL1 is making the noise now and was wondering. My local dealership by my house doesn't know anything about this issue. Was there any TSB issued yet to tell them what to do?
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