Installing factory sub?

[frenchsquared]

You would think GM would include instructions but not so much. Power and ground are pretty self explanatory. But thats about it. Where does the green and brown wire plug in?

If I have to take the entire interior out of the car I think I will return it and install real stuff. I thought this was a simple plug and play.

How do you Locate position 40 and 32 on the radio connecter and install one of the blue self stripping connecter onto the wire.

[frenchsquared]

I called crutchfield and they told me 40 is the tan and 32 is the grey. They also gave me a diagram. This is not at all plug an play. Im not happy about having to splice into the wires.

Should have just gone aftermarket.

[iownedu]

Radio Shack sells some quality T-taps for doing that. So you don't have to cut or solder your factory wiring, they are not the shitty 3m ones from Walmart.

[iownedu]

https://www.radioshack.com/products/...e-con-18-22awg

[hjdca]

I have been thinking of installing that sub... Let us know how it works out. Thanks !!

[rh96ss]

Curious, what part number are you installing?

[frenchsquared]

Part Number: 19303112

There are no instruction if you buy it from gm. At first this makes it rather confusing since its not plug and play. You just need cut the end off the amp plug and tie into the rear speaker. I followed Crutchfields instructions and ran the wire all the way to the deck and sliced into the front speaker. I would not do it that way again. I would just tap into the rear speaker. I have these instructions if anyone wants them. I had to call to get them.

I used some cheap splice connectors from the local part store. I did not know these were needed and I wanted my car back together. I thought this kit was plug and play. Its only that way if you have the Boston acoustics system. Our Z28's do not. I do not feel they will be an issue. I am changing to a mylink system soon so I can change them out if needed.

I think if I were to do this again I would get a 5 channel amp, a JL sub and all new door speakers and just run everything aftermarket.

I love the look. Its very easy to unbolt and totally looks factory. For $580 I am content. The miss understanding wasn't a big deal after all. It was just an unhappy surprise.

Im very impressed with the sound for something basically from GM. The bass is nice enough that I want to turn it up and the front speakers wont take it. Im going to have to upgrade the or keep the volume down. Its in no way a pounding system but that isn't what I wanted. I just wanted a little more bass and something that looked factory.

I coated the trunk in Dynomat at the same time. This is a must have. The car is much quieter and much nicer on road trips. I know, I know... I added a hole 3 lbs and killed GM's weight loss idea. Its my car and I enjoy driving it more.

I have a rear floor mat with the Z28 logo. I had to cut a small hole in this for the rubber mount the sub sits on. Its completely covered by the sub... so I guess its not big deal. I think without the dynomat and this floor mat the sub would rattle around. Without the carpet kit its kinda loose. So beware of that if your trunk is empty.

I would buy this sub again in a second if I had the Boston Acoustics system. The sound quality and easy of install in that set up would be great.

[Dustin.N]

Here are the instructions.

http://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/vs...2020151028.pdf

[frenchsquared]

Originally Posted by Dustin.N

Here are the instructions.

http://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/vs...2020151028.pdf

Notice those dont tell you were pin 32 and 40 are?
Connect the six inch adapter harness to the end of the two pin connecter. Locate position 40 and 32 on the radio connecter and install one of the blue self stripping connecter onto the wire. Those blue self stripping connecters are also not included if you get from GM.

[hjdca]

Originally Posted by frenchsquared

Part Number: 19303112

There are no instruction if you buy it from gm. At first this makes it rather confusing since its not plug and play. You just need cut the end off the amp plug and tie into the rear speaker. I followed Crutchfields instructions and ran the wire all the way to the deck and sliced into the front speaker. I would not do it that way again. I would just tap into the rear speaker. I have these instructions if anyone wants them. I had to call to get them.

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I think I will order the sub... You are saying that I do not have to run the wire from the dash ? I can just tap into the wires in the trunk to do the whole installation ? That sounds cool... How do I do that again ? Thanks !!

[hjdca]

Originally Posted by frenchsquared

Part Number: 19303112

.........................
Im very impressed with the sound for something basically from GM. The bass is nice enough that I want to turn it up and the front speakers wont take it. Im going to have to upgrade the or keep the volume down. Its in no way a pounding system but that isn't what I wanted. I just wanted a little more bass and something that looked factory..............
..........................

.

Hello, I finally got around to ordering this factory subwoofer. I did some research and I think I can improve the volume situation you mention above by using the JL Audio CL-RLC Remote Level Control. It is another $50 or so, but, this controller should allow me to connect the sub to the rear driver's speaker, and get a really clean signal, plus manage the signal boost (+ or -) for optimum volume... It seems to be a super easy install, I will just use double sided tape to stick the small components on the underside of the rear deck. I will let you know how it works out..

[frenchsquared]

Originally Posted by hjdca

Hello, I finally got around to ordering this factory subwoofer. I did some research and I think I can improve the volume situation you mention above by using the JL Audio CL-RLC Remote Level Control. It is another $50 or so, but, this controller should allow me to connect the sub to the rear driver's speaker, and get a really clean signal, plus manage the signal boost (+ or -) for optimum volume... It seems to be a super easy install, I will just use double sided tape to stick the small components on the underside of the rear deck. I will let you know how it works out..

Please let me know... I would love a bass control.

[Rocky1974]

I have the Kicker, which I thought was the same as the GM. I have Boston Acoustics and mine was NOT plug n play. I had to tap into the LH rear speaker, but I did not have to cut the end off of the cable. Mine came with a short cable and t-taps to make the connection. Kicker sells two versions. I think the one that they sell for the non-BA systems may be plug n play, but it comes with an amp that you install under the dash. That install requires you to remove the head unit. The instructions for both versions are available on Kicker's website. I downloaded and printed them.

[hjdca]

Originally Posted by Rocky1974

I have the Kicker, which I thought was the same as the GM. I have Boston Acoustics and mine was NOT plug n play. I had to tap into the LH rear speaker, but I did not have to cut the end off of the cable. Mine came with a short cable and t-taps to make the connection. Kicker sells two versions. I think the one that they sell for the non-BA systems may be plug n play, but it comes with an amp that you install under the dash. That install requires you to remove the head unit. The instructions for both versions are available on Kicker's website. I downloaded and printed them.

Yes, you are correct. I have the stock Z/28 stereo and if you just buy the subwoofer, you have to tap into the rear speakers, and yes, you can still do this without cutting. If you buy both the subwoofer and the amp, then, the wiring harnesses are all plug and play. You plug into the back of the head unit, the back of the new amp, and the subwoofer with the supplied wiring harnesses. I tried both and the system sounds way better with the amp and subwoofer together. The components are tuned for that.