Drop In Piston Install while motor is IN THE CAR - Page 2

18ss376 · 01-23-2019, 07:41 PM

If I ever have to pull my engine, it will get a 416ci stroker kit.
Callies 4" Magnum crank, Oliver 6.125" Billet Rods, Diamond 4.070" forged Pistons & that my friends will take 1000hp easy on a N/A engine with the right heads, cam & intake.

KingLT1 · 01-24-2019, 08:41 AM

Lol... a Gen 5 416 isn't making 1000hp Naturally Aspirated. There are no current heads out there to support that kind of power. More cubes don't mean a bunch more power unless it has the head/cam/intake to support it. The highest HP NA LT1 I have seen so far is Katech's 427 which makes 703hp...that is a long ways from 1000hp.

https://katechengines.com/engines/

Umbriel · 01-24-2019, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Lol... a Gen 5 416 isn't making 1000hp Naturally Aspirated. There are no current heads out there to support that kind of power. More cubes don't mean a bunch more power unless it has the head/cam/intake to support it. The highest HP NA LT1 I have seen so far is Katech's 427 which makes 703hp...that is a long ways from 1000hp.

https://katechengines.com/engines/

I don't see that happening either.

oldman · 01-24-2019, 11:44 AM

no to mention it is probably STP and most dyno headers will NEVER fit in any street chassis. Same goes with dyno intakes.

Russell James · 01-24-2019, 12:12 PM

Replacing one for one identical piston is certainly commonly done while engine is still in chassis. Not ideal, but it's done.

Replacing with different pistons; ie forged, domed... needs to be done with engine out. The rotating assembly will need to be rebalanced. And when you have the engine tore down that far, the ideal repair is to square everything back up... basically send the block/heads through the machine shop for the works.

MP3BOOSTED · 01-24-2019, 12:23 PM

So OP, you didn't end up doing the piston install with motor in the car? why not? i was considering of doing the honing as well as the pistons/rods install with the motor still in the car.

oldman · 01-24-2019, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

Replacing one for one identical piston is certainly commonly done while engine is still in chassis. Not ideal, but it's done.

Replacing with different pistons; ie forged, domed... needs to be done with engine out. The rotating assembly will need to be rebalanced. And when you have the engine tore down that far, the ideal repair is to square everything back up... basically send the block/heads through the machine shop for the works.

There are replacement piston and rods with the same bobweight (as stock) so there is no rebalancing.

bpang1234 · 01-24-2019, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DenverTaco07

how did it turn out?

It turned out great...car runs fantastic now and will get tuning dialed in before track season.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MP3BOOSTED

So OP, you didn't end up doing the piston install with motor in the car? why not? i was considering of doing the honing as well as the pistons/rods install with the motor still in the car.

My mechanics had never done that job and ended up recommending the regular way. That and all of the big name shops on this forum that I reached out to told me that they would be more comfortable if my mechanics had experience doing the work while the motor is in the car versus learning on my car.

The one piece of advice I will give everyone is that you really have to pay attention to how you plug in your spark plug wires to the spark plugs. I had a misfire happening and my guys had to just pull the wire and plug it back in more securely and I was fine. It's just a little funky because the stock wires have that weird metal boot with spring in them.

Denmanman4 · 07-10-2019, 12:19 PM

Well...... this turned out to be a lot less helpful than I thought it would be. Might want to add that there is no good information about actually putting installing some drop in pistons with the engine in the car. I guess when I finish my install I’ll try to do a write up of it all.

parbreak · 07-10-2019, 07:43 PM

That would be appreciated as I am considering doing the same thing in the near future. Probably GPI rods and pistons.

Denmanman4 · 07-12-2019, 01:42 AM

Yeah those are exactly what I’m working on putting in.... currently have it all tore down to the block and just need to get the oil pan off and I can start the installation process.

parbreak · 07-12-2019, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Denmanman4

Yeah those are exactly what I’m working on putting in.... currently have it all tore down to the block and just need to get the oil pan off and I can start the installation process.

Are you doing it in the car or motor out?

oldman · 07-12-2019, 12:26 PM

I have not done it on this engine, I've done it on many engines, there should be no issues. Might be a little tough honing the back two cylinders. Also I'm into plateau honing (280 flexi followed by nylon brush) and that is a little harder to do in the car, vs just shove down a flexi-hone.
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...face-finishes/

so IMO, it is not significantly harder to hone on the car, it is a critical process yes, but outside a clean machine shop and a honing maching. I think it would be hard to tell the difference between a block honed on the car vs the engine stand on the wear area, all hone jobs with the crank in will NOT properly reach the very bottom of the bore, and it ain't a big deal.

Denmanman4 · 07-13-2019, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by parbreak

Are you doing it in the car or motor out?

Yes I am doing it with the engine still in the car... I’m at the point of removing the oil pan right now. A lift would be nice but I’m getting it all done with 4 jack stands.

01-24-2019, 08:41 AM	#16
KingLT1 Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: 46804 Posts: 6,797	Lol... a Gen 5 416 isn't making 1000hp Naturally Aspirated. There are no current heads out there to support that kind of power. More cubes don't mean a bunch more power unless it has the head/cam/intake to support it. The highest HP NA LT1 I have seen so far is Katech's 427 which makes 703hp...that is a long ways from 1000hp. https://katechengines.com/engines/ __________________ 2016 NFG 1SS A8 Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA

01-24-2019, 11:44 AM	#18
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,316	no to mention it is probably STP and most dyno headers will NEVER fit in any street chassis. Same goes with dyno intakes. __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires. Last edited by oldman; 01-24-2019 at 12:40 PM.

01-24-2019, 12:23 PM	#20
MP3BOOSTED Drives: 2017 Camaro SS 1LE (F1A-94 FBO H/C) Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: San Antonio Texas Posts: 843	So OP, you didn't end up doing the piston install with motor in the car? why not? i was considering of doing the honing as well as the pistons/rods install with the motor still in the car. __________________ Performance Mods: F1A-94, DSX Flex Fuel Kit, MSD Spark Plug Wires, KOOK 2" off road headers, MBRP Race catback exhaust, Pray Performance Custom Boost Cam, Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade Kit, 7.850" Hardened Chromemoly Length Pushrods and Johnson Racing 2110R Lifters, TSP CNC'd Heads, Ported MSD intake manifold, 103mm Katech Throttle body, Forged Pistons/Rods, RPM Meth kit, DSX Aux Fuel system, AEM Failsafe and banks gauge, LT4 HPFP, LT4 injectors, BMR motor mounts, Hurst Short Throw, Manley SS exhaust valves Videos of my car? Check here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNi...Qy1OL4NVGlPogw

07-10-2019, 07:43 PM	#24
parbreak Drives: 2017 50th Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Maryland Posts: 525	That would be appreciated as I am considering doing the same thing in the near future. Probably GPI rods and pistons. __________________ 50th Anniversary Edition \|Borla Atak and 60606 mid pipes\| Kooks 1 7/8" \| ProCharger Stage II \|305/45/17 DRs \| Circle D 3500 stall \| LT4 fueling \| Custom made Lowside Aux Pump \| Alky Control Meth \| DSX E85

07-12-2019, 12:26 PM	#27
oldman Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Hilo, HI Posts: 4,316	I have not done it on this engine, I've done it on many engines, there should be no issues. Might be a little tough honing the back two cylinders. Also I'm into plateau honing (280 flexi followed by nylon brush) and that is a little harder to do in the car, vs just shove down a flexi-hone. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/200...face-finishes/ so IMO, it is not significantly harder to hone on the car, it is a critical process yes, but outside a clean machine shop and a honing maching. I think it would be hard to tell the difference between a block honed on the car vs the engine stand on the wear area, all hone jobs with the crank in will NOT properly reach the very bottom of the bore, and it ain't a big deal. __________________ Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.

01-23-2019, 07:41 PM	#15
18ss376 Drives: Camaro Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: USA Posts: 520	If I ever have to pull my engine, it will get a 416ci stroker kit. Callies 4" Magnum crank, Oliver 6.125" Billet Rods, Diamond 4.070" forged Pistons & that my friends will take 1000hp easy on a N/A engine with the right heads, cam & intake.

01-24-2019, 12:12 PM	#19
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Replacing one for one identical piston is certainly commonly done while engine is still in chassis. Not ideal, but it's done. Replacing with different pistons; ie forged, domed... needs to be done with engine out. The rotating assembly will need to be rebalanced. And when you have the engine tore down that far, the ideal repair is to square everything back up... basically send the block/heads through the machine shop for the works.

07-10-2019, 12:19 PM	#23
Denmanman4 Drives: 2017 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Fayetteville, NC Posts: 56 View My Garage	Well...... this turned out to be a lot less helpful than I thought it would be. Might want to add that there is no good information about actually putting installing some drop in pistons with the engine in the car. I guess when I finish my install I’ll try to do a write up of it all.

07-12-2019, 01:42 AM	#25
Denmanman4 Drives: 2017 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Fayetteville, NC Posts: 56 View My Garage	Yeah those are exactly what I’m working on putting in.... currently have it all tore down to the block and just need to get the oil pan off and I can start the installation process.

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