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Old 12-07-2018, 03:45 AM   #15
Rocky1974

 
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Drives: 2010 RJT 2SS M6 Camaro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chihuas View Post
I just put the dino number with the nitrous and without and on the track in the 98 number
I'm assuming that the first dyno run is without nitrous and the second one is with. I have a LS3 and mine made 416 at the rear tires with headers, a cold air kit and a tune and I remember the tuner tell me that there was more than 26 horsepower between L99s and LS3s. I didn't get the picture until I went back there with a buddy and his L99. He made 362 with the same parts, on the same dyno, with the same tuner. Personally, I think the L99 bottleneck is the cam. I think, with a LS3 cam it will make LS3 Power, but if you're swapping cams, I'm sure there's a lot better cams than a LS3.

But if you're putting a 125 shot on a motor with almost 200k miles on it and it hasn't already blown up, I'd say it's because the knock sensors saved it. Nitrous is famous for detonation and detonation is extremely hard on pistons, rods, cranks and bearings. The good news is that when the knock sensors pick up the detonation, the PCM pulls back the timing and saves the engine. Normally you can tell if this is happening by making a non-nitrous pass immediately after making a nitrous pass. If the second pass is noticeably slower than a normal non-nitrous pass, it's because the PCM pulled a bunch of timing on the nitrous pass. If that turns out to be the case, you will be able to go much faster with some high-octane racing fuel. From my experience, about 5 gallons of racing fuel on top of about a half tank of premium unleaded is worth about .5 second in the quarter. That alone would get you close to the 11s. Of course, if you do this and your motor blows up, you're on your own. Also keep in mind that if you put leaded racing fuel in it, that will be hard on catalytic converters(if you still have them) and oxygen sensors. But it won't damage them immediately, just if you keep doing it over time. There is unleaded racing fuel, but I think all the really high octane stuff is leaded. Good Luck
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:43 AM   #16
WoodBoss
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If you are getting a 2.1 60' time you are doing something wrong at the launch or your tune is way off. You should be in the 11s. At 200K miles I would rebuild the motor or find another one with low miles to build up. Good Luck.
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Old 12-07-2018, 08:56 AM   #17
WoodBoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overflow View Post
I was quoted $3k as well. So it's not completely unheard of.
Just the parts for a good L99 Cam install & a good converter will be at least $2500 and that was with discounts and sales. I still have not bought the transmission fluid and filter either yet. I don't see any shop doing this for $3000 and doing a reasonably good job. Plus there is going to be tuning involved for the tranny & the motor. The L99 is more expensive to change the cam due to the VVT, also you will need some lifters. Pretty easy to spend $3K with parts if you buy the trunion upgrade, break in oil & filter & new oil pump.
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Old 12-07-2018, 05:22 PM   #18
Rock-It Man
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My bone stock 2010 L99 has achieved 13.48 on all-season tires.

Just sayin'.
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Old 01-25-2019, 10:36 PM   #19
Chihuas
 
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i just start the project with the ls3 conversion with btr stage 3 cam and 3200 circle d trunion kit new timing chain upgrade melling oil pump, zl1fuel pump and think go 150 shot i send yo open the piston rings for the nitrous soon get the tune post more pic
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