Issue with installing springs - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

mtparker18 · 02-19-2015, 12:05 PM

Hey everyone.
I'm trying to install lowering springs on my '10 ss.

After I got the front assembled, I installed in in the car. The only problem is, the top cap (where the single mounting nut is) is loose. It's almost as if it's bottomed out on the retaining nut, but I have 1/8" of up and down play in the strut...any thoughts on this?

I might be doing something wrong, I'll have to pull apart the other side and see, I just figured I'd ask advice before I pull it back apart...

Thanks

Destructo09 · 02-19-2015, 12:33 PM

You mean there's a gap between the top cap and the body of the car?

mtparker18 · 02-19-2015, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destructo09

You mean there's a gap between the top cap and the body of the car?

Yes sir.

Destructo09 · 02-19-2015, 02:01 PM

If it's what I think it is then it's normal, you probably just didn't notice before taking it apart. There is supposed to be space there.

Here's a pic of another one.

mtparker18 · 02-19-2015, 02:30 PM

Interesting...I'll have to check the passenger side when I take it apart. My top bolt doesn't stick out as far as yours does either...I can't screw the cap (cover) on.

Destructo09 · 02-19-2015, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtparker18

Interesting...I'll have to check the passenger side when I take it apart. My top bolt doesn't stick out as far as yours does either...I can't screw the cap (cover) on.

That's not actually mine but a picture I found online. I don't think mine has that many threads either but I didn't have any issue screwing the plastic cap on.

JusticePete · 02-19-2015, 07:57 PM

You should post pictures of yours so we can confirm you are good to go or not

Camarodriver2 · 02-20-2015, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtparker18

Hey everyone.
I'm trying to install lowering springs on my '10 ss.

After I got the front assembled, I installed in in the car. The only problem is, the top cap (where the single mounting nut is) is loose. It's almost as if it's bottomed out on the retaining nut, but I have 1/8" of up and down play in the strut...any thoughts on this?

I might be doing something wrong, I'll have to pull apart the other side and see, I just figured I'd ask advice before I pull it back apart...

Thanks

Mine has the gap between the top cap and fender too but isn't loose.
Not sure if you can see from the picture.

mtparker18 · 02-20-2015, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusticePete

You should post pictures of yours so we can confirm you are good to go or not

I plan on it, I just haven't been near my car for the last day or two to snap a picture...I'll get one up in the next couple of days.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camarodriver2

Mine has the gap between the top cap and fender too but isn't loose.
Not sure if you can see from the picture.

I can kinda see...Like I said, I'll snap a pic for you guys this weekend.

Assassinx1 · 02-20-2015, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Destructo09

If it's what I think it is then it's normal, you probably just didn't notice before taking it apart. There is supposed to be space there.

Here's a pic of another one.

Hi why is there a spacer under your strut tower brace? and do youhavea full pic of under your hood?

Destructo09 · 02-20-2015, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Assassinx1

Hi why is there a spacer under your strut tower brace? and do youhavea full pic of under your hood?

That's not my car, it's a picture I found online to show the top of the strut, so I can't answer your question about that brace setup.

PAUL SS · 02-20-2015, 09:52 PM

The spacer under the strut tower brace allows the GM brace to be bolted to an early 5th gen that was not built with the strut tower brace provision.

As for the top bolt on the strut, maybe the spring was not compressed enough when you assembled it. Let the weight of the car down on it and use a torx bit to hold the bolt and tighten the nut with a wrench or a socket with a hex built into it.

Also there is a rubber ring you can get from a plumbing store that is a toilet part that fills that gap under the top cap.

Ventmaster · 02-21-2015, 06:21 AM

The top nut is to be torqued to 68lb/ft, but it doesn't actually compress the spring.
There is a spring perch retaining nut that you can't see once the strut is mounted in the car. It should be torqued to 65lb/ft.

Your spring may have rotated a bit during re-assembly and now it's not "seated". I'd take the strut back out, check that it's seated and torque down that perch nut as much as possible. Then replace it in the car and torque that top nut too!

Wacko37 · 02-21-2015, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

The top nut is to be torqued to 68lb/ft, but it doesn't actually compress the spring.
There is a spring perch retaining nut that you can't see once the strut is mounted in the car. It should be torqued to 65lb/ft.

Your spring may have rotated a bit during re-assembly and now it's not "seated". I'd take the strut back out, check that it's seated and torque down that perch nut as much as possible. Then replace it in the car and torque that top nut too!

a very small dab of lock tite and an impact worked great for me when re-installing.

02-19-2015, 12:05 PM	#1
mtparker18 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: United States Posts: 19	Issue with installing springs Hey everyone. I'm trying to install lowering springs on my '10 ss. After I got the front assembled, I installed in in the car. The only problem is, the top cap (where the single mounting nut is) is loose. It's almost as if it's bottomed out on the retaining nut, but I have 1/8" of up and down play in the strut...any thoughts on this? I might be doing something wrong, I'll have to pull apart the other side and see, I just figured I'd ask advice before I pull it back apart... Thanks __________________ -'10 1SS M6: Kooks 1-3/4" Headers, Gutted Cats, NO-Weeds Diverters, Flowmaster Mufflers, resonator delete, tint, HID's, KSport Lowering Springs, Pipeline Intake. 2016 Setup: BTR Stage 3 Cam w/ supporting mods. 2017 Setup: Corsa Xtreme catback 2018 Setup: Monster LT1-S, MGW Shifter, Navi My-Link, Led's all around -'03 Lexus GS300: A few mods -'18 2500 Cummins: Stock Bolt Ons(2015): 416HP/419TQ Cammed (2016): 471HP/436TQ

02-19-2015, 12:33 PM	#2
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	You mean there's a gap between the top cap and the body of the car? __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

02-19-2015, 02:01 PM	#4
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	If it's what I think it is then it's normal, you probably just didn't notice before taking it apart. There is supposed to be space there. Here's a pic of another one. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

02-19-2015, 02:30 PM	#5
mtparker18 Drives: 2010 SS Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: United States Posts: 19	Interesting...I'll have to check the passenger side when I take it apart. My top bolt doesn't stick out as far as yours does either...I can't screw the cap (cover) on. __________________ -'10 1SS M6: Kooks 1-3/4" Headers, Gutted Cats, NO-Weeds Diverters, Flowmaster Mufflers, resonator delete, tint, HID's, KSport Lowering Springs, Pipeline Intake. 2016 Setup: BTR Stage 3 Cam w/ supporting mods. 2017 Setup: Corsa Xtreme catback 2018 Setup: Monster LT1-S, MGW Shifter, Navi My-Link, Led's all around -'03 Lexus GS300: A few mods -'18 2500 Cummins: Stock Bolt Ons(2015): 416HP/419TQ Cammed (2016): 471HP/436TQ

02-20-2015, 09:52 PM	#12
PAUL SS The Mark of Excellence Drives: 2010 ABM 1SS RS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Smallest State in the Union Posts: 8,690 View My Garage	The spacer under the strut tower brace allows the GM brace to be bolted to an early 5th gen that was not built with the strut tower brace provision. As for the top bolt on the strut, maybe the spring was not compressed enough when you assembled it. Let the weight of the car down on it and use a torx bit to hold the bolt and tighten the nut with a wrench or a socket with a hex built into it. Also there is a rubber ring you can get from a plumbing store that is a toilet part that fills that gap under the top cap. __________________ BMR, CAI, DynoMax, Elite Eng., Hurst, Jannetty, Clear Image Headers & Hi Flow cats, Jet Hot, LSR, TSW, VMax, Vredestein

02-19-2015, 07:57 PM	#7
JusticePete Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 20,174	You should post pictures of yours so we can confirm you are good to go or not

02-21-2015, 06:21 AM	#13
Ventmaster Drives: 2017 1SS 6spd Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Utah Posts: 2,869	The top nut is to be torqued to 68lb/ft, but it doesn't actually compress the spring. There is a spring perch retaining nut that you can't see once the strut is mounted in the car. It should be torqued to 65lb/ft. Your spring may have rotated a bit during re-assembly and now it's not "seated". I'd take the strut back out, check that it's seated and torque down that perch nut as much as possible. Then replace it in the car and torque that top nut too!